ive got a VL non turbo and its got a problem... ok i start it in the morning and its fine then i drive it for 20 minutes or so and it starts playing up starts missing really badly and i struggle getting over 40km/h and if i stop the car usually stalls and i cant start it again unless i leave it for atleast 35mins.. the not starting thing happens everytime i drive if i drive somewere turn my car off i wont b able 2 start it for at least 35 mins.. it has no alarm or immobiliser so its not that.. i was wondering if any1 has had the same problem?? plz help
Got the same problem but mine only takes 5 minutes for it to start again. Had the cas replaced and it went normal for 2 days. Oh and its been like this for the past 4 months. Hehehehe.
sorry for the late reply i havnt had a chance 2 get on here.. ill check both of those thanks.. another thing i thought it could b is the fuel pump, as far as i no its the original so it might b loosing effieciecy after 20 or so minutes, could that also b a possability?
I has seen the CAS do some strange things, could be that.
Have a read through this
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=99904
i looked at that thread and there are some things i can try, my problem sounds the same so im hoping it is the cas plug.. ill give it a clean and let every1 no how i go.. thanks every1 for ur input
y dont you take it to a mechanic and ask him about it, i had the same problem, alll it was , was the computer stuffed up, fuel filter 80% blocked and somethng else that i dont no waht he sed.
give a mechanic a try, best option if you have no idea
i had the same problem i checked the cas,dizzy,ignition coil, leads fuelpump,and plugs none of these fixed the problem
what mine was the plug that goes into the coil was faulty i fixed that then evrything was fine
so just check that connector and make sure its contacting properly
MY CAR DOESNT EVEN START NOW... ok ive checked and done everything that every1 has suggested.. i unplugged the main lead that comes from the coil to the dizzy and rested it against the engine and when i was kicking it over it would hardly spark only every now and again so i guess my car isnt gettin enough spark so i checked the voltage from the plug that plugs into the coil and it was around 11.5v wich seemed normal 2 me, i thought it might of been the coil so i went to the wreckers and got a new coil but it did the same thing.. could it b the computer?
Last edited by garysvl; 07-05-2007 at 12:54 PM.
ok, were would i find the crank angle sensor?
ok thanks.. should i get a second hand one or should i get a new 1? also roughly how much would i b looking at for 1 of these?
I replaced the CAS in my VL about 18 months ago. It was about $120 new from Motor Traders, it also came with a new plug, rubber boot and a new dizzy bearing. Wouldn't go for a 2nd hand one, it may have other problems.
You will need to remove the dizzy to replace the bearings. It took me about 1hr to complete with a few beers in between.![]()
The problem I had with my CAS was that the car would intermitenly miss, like you turned off the key and back on again. Then it got worse and would cut out for longer, like 10 seconds or so.
Then the car would only run for a few minutes then cut out and would not re-start. Wait a few minutes, try again, and all was ok for a few minutes until it would cut out. A new CAS fixed it after replacing the plugs, leads, coil, fuel filter, power transistor and maybe some other parts.
Just looked through some old files and found this. Can't remember where it came from, maybe here or some other forum.![]()
NO SPARK VL COMMODORES
System uses an LED crank angle sensor (CAS) within the distributor to generate a speed signal (360-degree for timing) and a position signal (120-degree signal) for the computer (ECU). The ECU then uses these 2 signals to generate a trigger to the power transistor (PT) bolted to the outside of the distributor. The PT uses this trigger to switch the -ve coil to ground to generate spark.
1. On top of the distributor is a 4 pin harness plug - this is the crank angle sensor. With this plug removed test the voltage on each pin of the female harness plug against ground (engine earth/battery -ve) with the ignition on (KOEO).
2. Should have 12v (battery volts from the EFI relay), earth (Ov), and on the remaining 2 pins - 5v on each (from ECU).
3. Ensure the distributor shaft is turning during cranking - cam belt.
4. With the engine cranking these 2 wires which had 5v on each are the important signals you are after - expect approx. 2.3v on one and 0.3v on the other. If the CAS has failed expect close to 5v OR close to 0.0v on one or both. If the signals are BOTH within 20% of specs., then
5. Check the signal from the ECU to the PT (fawn wire onto PT). If ECU is generating the correct signal expect approx. 0.4v. If a greater voltage, then you have an earth problem. If 0.0v then the ECU is not outputting the signal - ECU failed. If correct signal but still no spark then the PT has failed to switch the coil (rare) or the coil has failed (common).
6. To check the PT is switching the coil, use a normal test light from the +ve battery to the -ve coil (brown/red at PT). Your light should illuminate with KOF (ignition key off), and when the coil is switched to ground through the PT during cranking. If your test light flashes during cranking then PT is doing its job so coil has failed. If no flashing then PT has failed. Or if test light constantly lit, then PT has failed.
sounds very much like the cas or related wiring to me. I also have a strong feeling that on a vl if it doesn't have more than 12v on crank then the car will have a lot of problems starting. Has something to do with the design of the computer. might be an idea to check your battery and charge system when you get it running. have you tried jump starting the car to boost the voltage? give it a go and see how you go.
ok i checked the cas plug and all the voltages seem 2 b correct, but when i checked the power transistor plug it came up with around 11.5 volts so i guess there must b an earth problem, does any1 no if the the earth problem would b from the transistor or from the ecu?