AFM may be worn out

[rustman]

the lowest i can get my afm is 495 ohms...
I've been smelling fumes ever since i put a new airfilter in.
It's been chewing juice too.

I've posted this in another thread, but i saw it was back in 06, so i posted here as well

[harry3]

I dont know how to read the numbers but spraying the sensor with contacts cleaner may help
also check the plug for corrosoin

[14secvp]

1. Air flow meter: check the connections including rubber boot, clean with contact cleaner if necessary. remove the airflow meter (undo the clamp behind it and remove the top of the airbox and air flow meter together) and clean using contact cleaner or some other cleaner thats safe on electrical components. clean out the airbox and replace the air filter if necessary ($10 for a cheap one, $100 for K&N) reinstall everything

if the car is stalling after starting or seems to be choking still after this, check AAC valve, air regulator, make sure there's no air leaks, then replace the air flow meter ($20-$60 from wreckers, approx $150 reconditioned, about $400-$600 new)

TO CHECK AND ADJUST MIXTURE:
1. start and run the engine until its at operating temperature
2. set idle speed and timing to specified values
3. take off the passenger kick panel to view the LED's on the ECU
4. start and run the motor at 2000rpm for 2 mins
5. check the flashes from the LED's on the ecu while at 2000rpm, they should both flash together more than 5 times every 10 seconds. if they don't you have ecu or oxygen sensor issues (refer to the picture at the bottom explaining the interpretation of flashes other than what are stated)
6. if there are more than 5 flashes per 10 secs, stop the engine, disconnect the wiring connector from the AAC valve and the throttle switch
7. start and run the engine at 2000rpm for 2 mins
8. let the engine idle
9. the leds should now flash simultaneously
10. if the green light is flashing more the mixture is lean, if the red is flashing more the mixture is richer than it should be.
10. if the LED's do not flash together remove the plug next to the Air flow meter connector and adjust the screw until they flash together (clockwise raises the resistance and leans the mixture, anti clockwise lowers the resistance and richens the mixture)
11. replace the plug, replace the AAC and throttle switch connectors and return to instruction 4. do the test again to check that the mixture is now right
12. if the mixture cannot be adjusted so that the leds flash together, its time to test the AFM

TO TEST AFM:
pull back the rubber boot on the AFM connector revealing the wires. grab your multimeter and stick the probes on wire 4 (white) and 2 (1 being the closest to the airbox) with the multimeter on DC voltage. turn the ignition on and the voltage reading should be between 1.26V (lean) and 1.32V (rich). this is the base setting and if it is out then the AFM wont be able to be adjusted to a satisfactory mixture (meaning you need a new one)

and just for interests sake you can test the mixture by putting the probes on wire 1 and 3 with the key on and measuring the voltage. 3.6V is the factory setting which is lean, with 2.0V being rich. the mixture should be in the vacinity of 2.0-4.0i couldn't get the LED's to flash and therefore couldn't set it using the computer so i did it this way and set it to 3.5V (AFM resistance of 375 ohms) and then checked it using the computer

[My Car]

Regarding test on AFM I got reading of 10v. between 4 and 2,but was able to get 3.5v on terminals 1 and 3. it was set at 2.1v Wasnt able to get ohm reading of 375 though, so whats going on do you think,thanks Martin

[14secvp]

sometimes they suffer from dry solder like vn fuel guages you can open them up ill attach a pic of the inside but resistance with it unplugged measuring between pin 1 and 6 should be 375 i cut and pasted that above some things may not be correct heres a pic showing where the wires connect on the inside
check the solder joints in there

[My Car]

Spanners, I can now get 375ohms between 1 and 6 now and having 3.5v at 2 and 4 ,I guess Im ok now,just wanted to get better ks. per ltr. Thanks again for your reply. Martin

[14secvp]

sweet as rep away

[14secvp]

did you look down where the air flows through and make sure the heated wires are still intact sometimes when putting pods and stuff on bits can get through and hit the wire damaging it does it run any different after resetting to factory specs

[My Car]

Didnt take apart as such and havent noticed much difference in performance,it was running ok prior anyway,just noticed using more fuel and wanted better economy,but motor sounds a little different though I think lol,Thanks for enquiring. Martin

[mag]

Spanners, I can now get 375ohms between 1 and 6 now and having 3.5v at 2 and 4 ,I guess Im ok now,just wanted to get better ks. per ltr. Thanks again for your reply. Martin

To add to spanners post, I think just forget the omhs reading and do the volts setting as it's spot on every time..

Also to hold the revs up while you've got your head in the passenger side (looking at the flashing LEDS) I use a big screwdriver and put the tip in between the throttle stop and arm and the handle next to the bracket so it doesn't move that way you don't need any ones help..