ok well my crank angle sensor decided itd had enuff today. washed the car went 2 drive her outa the carwash and no action. so i push her off 2 the side and go thru everything. eventually had a look 2 see if any fault codes had come up on the computer.number 11 was showing crank angle sensor. so ive just paid 100 buks 2 get her towed home
. any ways how much is a new crank angle sensor goin 2 set me back? the sensor that was in it is only just ova a year old , they shud last longer than that! allso would a crank angle sensor on itsway out be causing any otha problems with running like rough idle or do they just stop? cheers
the germans designed it, the aussies built it, the japs got it moving and the wogs got it dosing...
corrosion in the electrical plug on it may be the problem, made worse by water from the carwash
the complete distributor head is usually reconditioned by an auto electrician if its not just the plug, a kit is available
also theres supposed to be a gasket under the dizzy head to keep water out
you can buy the plug separately for about $20. do that first and see how you go. if the CAS is stuffed again after only a year then something is causing it to die, and that is most likely the dizzy bearing. easy way to tell is there will be orange powder in the dizzy if the bearing is stuffed.
allritey pulled my dizzy out this arvo the connector is a bit corroded.seal is hard and wouldnt hav been doin much. question .the timing notches on tha balancer ,the center 1 is tdc right?? think iam just goin 2 rebuild the whole lot new cas bearing , connector.. allso do i hav 2 erase fault codes on the ecu???
the germans designed it, the aussies built it, the japs got it moving and the wogs got it dosing...
No! to fault code
Tdc mark is the top one on the balancer ( the yellow one)on the compression stroke facing the engine turn the engine over clockwise it is the last mark to pass the pointer
Nobody wants to play with me
the rotating tone wheel is easily bent and should be marked to prevent it going back wrong way round
Pull your dizzy out, throw it away.
Get yourself a series 3 Skyline Dizzy and say goodbye to CAS problems.
the skyline and VL dizzy heads are not interchangable and a skyline head new costs a fortune being genuine nissan only
Best option is to get a complete dizzy from a series 3 R31 skyline, it has a Mitsubishi CAS in it and it is 100% reliable and gives a clean signal output.
you need the complete dizzy because it uses a Mitsubishi rotor button as well, which is different, and will not fit in the vl dizzy.
the dizzy cap is interchangeable however.