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Thread: vl timing belt?

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    starfire vc's Avatar
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    Default vl timing belt?

    ok the vl 's been goin reall bad . no fault codes .... just running bad! hard to start and rough as guts at idle.so i took the timing belt cover off and find the belt is loose as anything.soooo iam assuming it may of a jumped a tooth,and seeing its the origonal belt i went out and bought a newie to put on...ive got it all apart got the old belt off and broke my harmonic balancer in the proccess... so replacing the belt do i just go off the 2 yellow marks that are on the belt, align those with the marks on both the cam and crank, align crank pulley with mark on oil pump housing and all shud be sweet, yeah..?
    the germans designed it, the aussies built it, the japs got it moving and the wogs got it dosing...

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    Did u get a new balancer is well? the belt is only good for 100k, above 100k is where the harmonic balancer comes in.. the belt and balancer should be about $150 for both...

    I dont have the info yet mate sorry, but i will oneday soon, im sure someone here does?
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    While you have it apart, check the bearing in the belt tensioner pulley to make sure it isn't worn or running dry. You need to loosen all the rocker shaft retaining bolts so you can get the belt tension set corectly. Slip the belt on with the crank timing mark lined up with the mark on the oil pump and the cam with the dowel pin at the top. The gregorys manual says there should be 53 grooves on the belt between the top and bottom markson the pulleys on the passenger side of the engine. You need to loosen the locknut on the belt tensioner and let the spring on the tensioner apply belt tension.You should use an allen key to rock the tensioner back and forward to make sure it is moving freely and is applying belt tension. Next hold the tensioner puley in position with the allen key while tightening the locknut, then tighten up the rocker shaft bolts and put everything else back together.

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    got a 2nd hand balancer from a wreckers yesterdy, so iam tryin to get her goin today.. why is do u need to loosen the rocker shafts? and what other mark do i line the camshaft up with? or is it just so the locating dowel is at the top? allso when counting the teeth. do u start from the groove or the tooth?
    the germans designed it, the aussies built it, the japs got it moving and the wogs got it dosing...

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    here is a diagram
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Nobody wants to play with me

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    do the cam and crankseals as well while the belt is off, it will only take an extra half hour and the pair of seals cost me $25 i think. its worth doing that because if they leak next week then the oil contaminates the new belt and softens its rubber and shags it quicker.

    also advance the cam one tooth by making sure the crank is at tdc and putting the dimple in the cam gear one tooth clockwise from where it says in the manual (should be dead on top) then move the dizzy as far anticlockwise as it will go. youll notice a bit more power.

    also i think that dayco do a racing timing belt for about $70 that lasts 5 years instead of seven. repco should be able to hook you up with one of those.

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    Quote Originally Posted by starfire vc View Post
    got a 2nd hand balancer from a wreckers yesterdy, so iam tryin to get her goin today.. why is do u need to loosen the rocker shafts? and what other mark do i line the camshaft up with? or is it just so the locating dowel is at the top? allso when counting the teeth. do u start from the groove or the tooth?
    i wouldnt bother loosening the rocker shafts either. it makes it a tad easier but i wouldnt waste the time doing it.

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    thanks 4 ur help all. got the belt on and she's goin again. it 's running fine now. so iam allmost certain that the belt sliped causing it to run rough. didnt hav the time to do seals. lets hope they hold up 4 a bit longer.
    the germans designed it, the aussies built it, the japs got it moving and the wogs got it dosing...

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    i have a question about the tensioner pully... the spring has come off on mine while i was changing the water pump and i dont know how to tension it and put it back on properly.

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    bit hard to explain without pics. but the spring goes on the tensioner and reacts off the small threaded stud to the right of it looking from the front of the motor.put it on in such a way so as the pully flicks around to the right (toward the belt)
    the germans designed it, the aussies built it, the japs got it moving and the wogs got it dosing...

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    i remember back in 2007 when this was oriiginally asked...
    This is good site to watch.I found it informative as I have been researching a lot lately on such matters such as you talk about.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Panama View Post
    i remember back in 2007 when this was oriiginally asked...

    Hahaha yip yip , i havnt been on here for ages and i see one of my old posts is up the top. lol. Was funny reading back, Ive done about 6 timming belts in vls now. lol
    the germans designed it, the aussies built it, the japs got it moving and the wogs got it dosing...

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    Quote Originally Posted by starfire vc View Post
    bit hard to explain without pics. but the spring goes on the tensioner and reacts off the small threaded stud to the right of it looking from the front of the motor.put it on in such a way so as the pully flicks around to the right (toward the belt)
    I understand your answer because I have done a few myself and you,ve explained it pretty well however I will add that when the spring is installed against that stud it just doesn't look right BUT IT IS RIGHT.
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