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Thread: horrid tappity noise

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    Paiste402's Avatar
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    Default horrid tappity noise

    hey i got this VL and its making an amazingly loud tappety noise while driving. I think it might be the manifold or the gasket for it. any other suggestions? Also the oil is like black sludge and that may have something to do with it...

    thanks heaps fellas.
    Quote Originally Posted by <TVR-161> View Post
    yeah vts are becoming the new vn here, seing plenty with rear stockies, front chromies towing invisible caravans.

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    The VL is prone to exhaust manifold leaks. The front and the rear most studs have a tendency to snap. It also could be the flange gasket where the engine pipe bolts to the manifold.

    Take the heat shield off and using a piece of hose as a stethoscope, listen around the manifold and you will hear it if it is leaking.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    awesome mate! thanks heaps bud
    Quote Originally Posted by <TVR-161> View Post
    yeah vts are becoming the new vn here, seing plenty with rear stockies, front chromies towing invisible caravans.

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    you sound sure it is the manifold gasket! so "as above"! also the lifters, if your oil is black and sludge it has probably thined out causing the lifters to make the tappety sound also, so an oil and filter change sounds like it is in order.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jatsvl View Post
    you sound sure it is the manifold gasket! so "as above"! also the lifters, if your oil is black and sludge it has probably thined out causing the lifters to make the tappety sound also, so an oil and filter change sounds like it is in order.
    sweet now i cant wait to rip into my car and get it purrrring. thanks u guys
    Quote Originally Posted by <TVR-161> View Post
    yeah vts are becoming the new vn here, seing plenty with rear stockies, front chromies towing invisible caravans.

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    if it is a lifter a dose of nulon lifter free will sometimes quieten noisy lifters but the lifters do eventually wear out

    anyway take the car for a run to warm up the oil before changing it and valvoline filters are good

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    if it's lifter noise, there's great guides on the r31 skyrine club, and the calais turbro forums on how to clean the lifters - should only take a few hours with basic mechanical knowledge.

    here's a before and after pic of what my rocker gear/lifter 'blocks' and lifters looked like.

    after giving them all a good clean the engine sounds nice and quiet! even on startup on cold days
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails horrid tappity noise-hpim0521.jpg   horrid tappity noise-m0520.jpg  

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    i basically found the prob. on my exhaust manifold most of the bolts were loose and 3 were missing. New gasket and bolts should fix it up!
    Quote Originally Posted by <TVR-161> View Post
    yeah vts are becoming the new vn here, seing plenty with rear stockies, front chromies towing invisible caravans.

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    I would be putting all new studs in. I will guarantee that if none snap when you undo them, a couple will when you tighten them all up. Use Toyota flange studs when replacing them, they are a lot cheaper. They are also about 7mm shorter, but it shouldn't make any difference.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    I would be putting all new studs in. I will guarantee that if none snap when you undo them, a couple will when you tighten them all up. Use Toyota flange studs when replacing them, they are a lot cheaper. They are also about 7mm shorter, but it shouldn't make any difference.
    7mm shorter, you will not have enough length to put the nut on the end of it,

    yes it may cost more to do with the proper studs but they will last longer as they are designed with the allowance of the head expanding and shrinking.

    i did my daily vl a few months back, only cost 60ish for all new studs, then you need to get the snapped studs tapped out. easy job if your mecahnically minded

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    hey guys i haqve this same problem except mine started by just sounding like tappets then slowly got louder and louder untill now it sounds like tappets are about to ping throught the hood.. it doesnt just sound liek tappets now thogh it sounds a bit more like nuts and bolts loose aswell. any ideas on what might be wrong with mine ??? or would it probably be the same thing ??

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    Quote Originally Posted by seans VL Calais View Post
    hey guys i haqve this same problem except mine started by just sounding like tappets then slowly got louder and louder untill now it sounds like tappets are about to ping throught the hood.. it doesnt just sound liek tappets now thogh it sounds a bit more like nuts and bolts loose aswell. any ideas on what might be wrong with mine ??? or would it probably be the same thing ??
    hmmm take off the heat shield and nip up the bolts and anything loose in ur engine bay. should make a good difference is sound and performance. Worked for my old VN
    Quote Originally Posted by <TVR-161> View Post
    yeah vts are becoming the new vn here, seing plenty with rear stockies, front chromies towing invisible caravans.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by VL Berlina 5speed View Post
    7mm shorter, you will not have enough length to put the nut on the end of it,

    yes it may cost more to do with the proper studs but they will last longer as they are designed with the allowance of the head expanding and shrinking.

    i did my daily vl a few months back, only cost 60ish for all new studs, then you need to get the snapped studs tapped out. easy job if your mecahnically minded
    You will get the nut on. The only difference will be that there won't be any stud sticking out of the nut once it is tight. The nut will be fully on the thread, just none sticking out.

    Using the proper studs is supposed to allow the manifold to slide along the head, hence the reason the holes in the manifold are slotted, and get bigger as they move away from the centre. Studs breaking clearly indicates this doesn't work, as all they do is bend back and forth, weakening them until they break on their own, or when you put a spanner on them.

    Doing countless VL manifolds, sure we recommended using the genuine stud because it meant more money for us, but we knew the Toyota ones never broke once we fitted those. You will need to leave the dome shaped washer out as well. I forgot to mention that.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    if you have any other problems boys i have a complete car im wrecking if anybody interested for parts motor, 5sp, disc brake diff.

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    even tho i have gotten rid of that car cause the arse who i got it off of didnt tell me that:

    the entire boot was rusted out
    seats stank
    no gauges worked
    trans was trashed
    diff was thrashed
    he welded the exhaust so it was terrible
    he lowered it by cutting the coils so it was dangerous
    bolts were missing in the engine bay
    nuts and the treads missing from the f-ing tyres (he just but covers over them so i wouldnt know.... geez like i wasnt gonna change the tyre one day)
    he put in the sun roof so it leaked and destroyed the interior trim
    the steering wheel pops off down the road

    AND that tappity noise was one of the fuel injectors, my god the fuel injector. We got one of those doctors heart listening thing-os and thats where the sound was.

    After all this the **** head wanted the exhaust tip back after we towed it away and didnt say he wanted it. ah well my VB rocks anyway.

    i hope the engine he got off me is completely ruined.
    Quote Originally Posted by <TVR-161> View Post
    yeah vts are becoming the new vn here, seing plenty with rear stockies, front chromies towing invisible caravans.

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