help wid paint and panel

[maxpower QLD]

hi everyone

ok i'm thinking about painting my VL and would like to have a go at doing by myself coz i don't have a spare six grand to get it done properly. so i'm wondering if any one has done this and if they have how did it turn out ? and could they help me with a few pointers pls ?



1. What sort of paint should i use ? two pack or acrilic ?

2. tips for preperation e.g paint stripping , grease and wax removal , mixing and number of applications of primer

3. how to mix the clear and number of clear coats should i apply ?

4. preperaiton for painting the plastic moulds and bumpers .

Any help or tips would be great guys as i'm not after a show wining paint job i just want to tidy it up and make it look more presentable . cheers

[maxpower QLD]

i'm thinking of adding a group A body kit. then paint it a nice metalic green possibly ?

[azkwazere]

Can no one search anymore???

DIY: Respray

Great tute right there.

aZk.

[Bax]

If you've got no experience at painting before this, I'd try and find a friend or someone that will do it for cheap. It's got potential to look terrible if you don't do it well.

Runs, orange peel, looking real flat etc. You could potentially waste hours of work and litres of paint.

I know you can get resprays from people that do paint for a living, for 1k.

But read that link.

[maxpower QLD]

I've spent about 5 hours lastnight seaching for information about this kind of stuff and found basicly nothing and the information i did find was about as helpful as a broken leg . Anyways i think i'l just pay the six grand and have it done properly.

Cheers guys

[Hjtunr]

hay dude hava go at it yur self. dnt bother taking it back to bare metal you might find much more than u bargained for, pretty much what you gota do is block back the clear, use either wet or dy or any fine grit papper, then score you sum 2k high fill primer, this will sort out all yur low/high spots, then block that back again, then paint wise id go ppg but there a bit pricey so id go concept paints, spray yur base coast then yur clear over the top, if u get runs in the clear wait a cuply weeks then buff that shiz back. good luck cobber

[maxpower QLD]

cheers mate . Yeah i've recently had the rust taken out and new panels put on so the body is now rust and dent free . I've aquired a kick as compresor and top loading spray gun. I had planed on painting it my shed and line the walls and floor with clear plastic to keep the dust out . I'm not sure how long i should wait for the paint to flash before i aplly the nxt coat ? Whats with the heat lamps ? do they enhance the quality of the paint finish or does it just speed the drying time up a bit .I'm still not to sure if i should do it or just pay 6 grand for someone else to do it and be done with it .

[maxpower QLD]

I'm not after a show winning paint job i just want it to look clean tidy.

[R0d]

. I'm not sure how long i should wait for the paint to flash before i aplly the nxt coat ? Whats with the heat lamps ? do they enhance the quality of the paint finish or does it just speed the drying time up a bit .I'm still not to sure if i should do it or just pay 6 grand for someone else to do it and be done with it .

depends, basecoat with slow reducer takes about 5minutes to dry, direct gloss about 10. Heat lamps can actually make the clear soften causing it either flatten a small bit or run if you dont let the clear sit for a while, but if the car needs to be finished quickly heat lamps will dry it faster

[maxpower QLD]

depends, basecoat with slow reducer takes about 5minutes to dry, direct gloss about 10. Heat lamps can actually make the clear soften causing it either flatten a small bit or run if you dont let the clear sit for a while, but if the car needs to be finished quickly heat lamps will dry it faster

thanx mate so what about clear ? How many coats should i use coz i was thinkin about three coats of clear , give or take ?

[dan_man31]

take bax's advice only takes one thing to go wrong and then your back at square one buying new paint and re sanding the entire thing definetly go 2 pac as it usually turns out better and lasts longer

check out mine if your keen for a look

Curtis's Car: Blue Storm (soon to be turbo) - Cape Girardeau, Missouri

if you look like page 2 the greens turned out different its cause we stuffed up and had to re sand the entire car buy more paint and start again didn't take that long cause we left it green underneath and were happy how it turned out if you want to have pride practice and practise on dodgy panels all up cost me $1000 to buy paint thinners , bogs sandpapers and so on did it ourselfs and saved a bucket

probably twice that to get all the new parts to put it back together

good luck

Dan

[R0d]

thanx mate so what about clear ? How many coats should i use coz i was thinkin about three coats of clear , give or take ?

i only put 2 on mine some people do put 3. but the more coats you put on the more the risk of runs. Just a tip for the first coat of clear dont make it to heavy because if its a metallic the clear cand move the metallic and make a patch

[dan_man31]

depends how much clear you got ive heard of people flow coating the car so its really really thick we went 3 coats until it flashed off and looked shiny but still should have gone one more so depends

Dan

[maxpower QLD]

ok then thanks guys. The only thing thats holding me from painting the gold beast now is getting so spare time to do so . I've accuired a few old bonets from the tip to practice on so that'l help.

[VL Berlina 5speed]

well ill put in prospective what im getting in a few weeks for my car

5 litres of basecoat colour
5 litres of clear
with hardners for both
20 litres of thinners
5 litres of a basecoat designed for my colour

costing me just shy off $1750
just on another note this is PPG's best clear in the deltron range and the basecoat colour is a Mica so it has pearl in it, just the colour itself is about $850

ive desided to get extra basecoat and clear just incase,
so it will make 10 litres of clear and colour

[Nev25]

One this site no one has mentioned ETCH PRIMER.
Ive read on other site about the use of it
Anyone like to comment
Whats it for,how do you use it, is it worth using etc

Also I'm thinking about re spaying (just doing some research) Problem is I don't have a shed
Has anyone successfully sprayed out in the open (Ive seen it done) with good results
I'm even thinking about building a frame structure and covering with clear plastic (Anyone know where to buy plastic)

Any thoughts

I'm also told there are portable spray booths available for hire
But I cannot find any in Vic??

[VL Berlina 5speed]

One this site no one has mentioned ETCH PRIMER.
Ive read on other site about the use of it
Anyone like to comment
Whats it for,how do you use it, is it worth using etc

Also I'm thinking about re spaying (just doing some research) Problem is I don't have a shed
Has anyone successfully sprayed out in the open (Ive seen it done) with good results
I'm even thinking about building a frame structure and covering with clear plastic (Anyone know where to buy plastic)

Any thoughts

I'm also told there are portable spray booths available for hire
But I cannot find any in Vic??

etch primer is only used when the panel is completely bare metal, which is not a must in resprays like everyone thinks

[R0d]

[QUOTE=Nev25;750008]
Also I'm thinking about re spaying (just doing some research) Problem is I don't have a shed
Has anyone successfully sprayed out in the open (Ive seen it done) with good results
QUOTE]

bumpers can be spotted up outside sometimes, but the paint used is mainly acrylic. Spray out in the open and one bit of wind and you got **** all over the paint. also etch primer is used to promote adhesion to bare metal for putty primer, but some primers dont need it

[maxpower QLD]

Hey there fellas . The other week i bought a group A body kit that was kinda damaged lol anyhoo today i fixed the rear bar '' looks like a new one now '' but the front one i'm not to sure how to atach it to the plasic top ? when i got the front bar it was screwed AND popriveted to the plastic top half of bumper then covered in bogg . Today i took it off coz it looked as ruff as guts and fixed all the holes in the fiberglas part of the bar . Now i'm unsure how to mount the fiberglass bottom to the plastic top . Should i use small flat head screws , poprivets or use some kind of glue ?

[maxpower QLD]

Hey there fellas . The other week i bought a group A body kit that was kinda damaged lol anyhoo today i fixed the rear bar '' looks like a new one now '' but the front one i'm not to sure how to atach it to the plasic top ? when i got the front bar it was screwed AND popriveted to the plastic top half of bumper then covered in bogg . Today i took it off coz it looked as ruff as guts and fixed all the holes in the fiberglas part of the bar . Now i'm unsure how to mount the fiberglass bottom to the plastic top . Should i use small flat head screws , poprivets or use some kind of glue ?

. Here is a picture

[maxpower QLD]

The fiberglass section is fine as i've fixed all holes and minor cracks in it after i removed the plastic section from the top . Any usefull advice would be a BIG help .