Bleeding VL Radiator - URGENT!!!

[mulligan-can]

Ok, i have no problem with using the bottom bleed valve. However, my top bleed valve doesn't even appear to be connected?!?!?!?!?!?

I'm attaching a picture....

I tried pouring a little water thru the bolt hole to see if it would come out that little pipe stuck in the side with nothing attached and it does.... also, i traced across to where is looks like the other end of the pipe work should be coming out and its just the same, a pipe sitting in free space..

Can anyone shed some light on how it should be set up and give me some pointers on ... well... anything i can do to rectify the situation?

(my radiator sprung a leak and after repairing it and refilling i went to try and bleed it and hit this brick wall...)

Please help, this is kinda urgent... Thanks.

[Bax]

Need to see the picture that you've uploaded mate so I can point it out.

I don't think you should go pouring any water down them just in case you've got the wrong holes haha.

[mulligan-can]

Hmmmm.... doesn't seem to have imbedded the picture properly... anyway, direct link. Hehe, yeah, the water thing wasnt the wisest move ever but since i knew it was the right spot and am pretty damn sure every line that should be connected is missing i didnt see the harm in confirming it

direct link to pic below.

ImageShack - Hosting :: 20080604001hq0.jpg

[mulligan-can]

And it is now broked..... Was putting the bolt back in so i didnt lose it and it sheared.... ummm.... how to get it out? just drill and tap i'm guessing?

[VL Berlina 5speed]

ive got just the pic you need in my cars thread


if you need any clues on piping for the coolant system i understand it really well now , and ive got quite a few pics of locations and how they fit.

for the snapped thread on the bleeder, you will need to ezyout it or drill and tap it

[Cheap6]

At the risk of stating something that is already known, when you get the bolt out and a replacement (new copper gaskets, both bolts and Never-Seize or similar will help avoid leaks or a repeat failure), the level of coolant at the radiator neck has to be higher than the level of the top bleed bolt. Easiest way is use a funnel made from a plastic bottle with the base cut out and a wrap of electrical tape around the cap thread so it seals in the radiator filler neck.

[Bax]

Or you can try a lock wrench, worth a shot before you get the easy outs into it.

As for using the bottle, yeah that would be the best way. The last time I did mine I just jammed a hose in the radiator, put the bottom bolt in when water came out of it, put the top bolt in when water came out of that.

I have to do my current car again because I don't think the mechanics did it.

[gungazza]

Or you can try a lock wrench, worth a shot before you get the easy outs into it.

As for using the bottle, yeah that would be the best way. The last time I did mine I just jammed a hose in the radiator, put the bottom bolt in when water came out of it, put the top bolt in when water came out of that.

I have to do my current car again because I don't think the mechanics did it.

whats a lock wrench, please

[Bax]

Or vice grips - whatever name you choose to call them.

[mulligan-can]

Well.... the bolt sheared off BELOW the top of the hole... however that works...

and there are no hose connected to the top valve ANYWHERE..... would someone be able to help with locations and specs on them? I would like to connect them all up as i seriously don't wanna risk a cracked head...

no idea how the previous owner got away with it like this... mind you, he always had it taken to the same mechanic and they did all the work on it... maybe they screwed it up? either way, i need to fix it... fast... thanks for the help so far guys

[VL Berlina 5speed]

this is a na manifold but its bassed on same set up

bellow the manifold, note the pipe near the front that runs up and connects to a adaptor on the manifold


the pipe your missing, the pipe mentioned above connects to this at the lower point


the second pipe on the bleader valve runs to the throttle body then out the other side to another connector


that connector before is a pipe thath runs from connector thought the manifold to a 4 way connector which is screwed into the block and leads to firewall, into the block and back to the front



all these pipes are avalible in by mackay besides the rear one that goes thought the manifold, they stopped producing it and i was just lucky enought to find someone wih a old one in stock

[VL Berlina 5speed]

on a side note, is the car struggling to idle in the morning when cold???

all the fluid does up the top is run though the throttle body to help warm the air and make it run a little better when cold

check the pipes off the throttle body that run towards the rear, i have a feeling its been disconnected or blocked.
near the thermostat a pipe would have been blocked too if they did

just a thought

[mulligan-can]

the car doesn't seem to have any issues idling... ok, so do you only actually need to bleed the top screw? just the one next to the coolant intake pipe? Thats basically my main question lol. Need to ensure its bled properly and the moment i noticed the top bleeder wasnt connected panic set in...

[mulligan-can]

Sorry to be a pain but would like to get this sorted over the long weekend. Can anyone confirm that i can just bleed the bottom screw and not worry about the disconnected top one?

[jatsvl]

my bleeder valves have stripped threads, so I don't touch them and haven't touched them in four years,
I hhave changed my radiator three times,my water pump once and the top hose once my temp gauge only ever reaches the second notch sometimes the third if the air con is on.
my method 1, with the cap off fill the radiator to the max start the car turn the heater on allow it to idle until the thermostat opens (top hose starts to get warm) pull the accelerator cable and hold the revs around 1500-2000rpms the level drops top it up replace the cap drop the revs fill the over flow bottle job done!
most head problems are caused by owners driving an over heating engine and never checking fluid levels.
method 2 you can use one of those large black funnels with the flexi hose the ones you use to put petrol in your car remove the flexi hose, attach a a piece of hose that fits in the filler of the radiator nice and snug and long enough that the funnel is higher than the engine then method 1

[Holdfast]

This is an extract from Page 66 of "Gregory's No238 Commodore VL Series 1986 - 1988 says this:

para (5)
Slowly fill the radiator with the specified coolant and instal the radiator cap.

para (6)
Remove the bleed bolts from the thermostst housing and the inlet manifold plenum chamber.

para (7)
Disconnect the radiator overflow hose from the expansion tank cap and, using a small funnel, pour coolant into the hose ensuring that it is held higher than the plenum chamber.

para (8)
When the coolant flows from the thermostst housing bleed hole, instal the bolt securely.

para (9)
Continue adding coolant until coolant flows from the plenum chamber bleed hole and instal the bolt securely.

para (10)
Add coolant to the expansion tank until it is approximately 25mm above the Maximum mark and connect the overflow hose.

para (11)
Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and check for leaks.

para (12)
Stop the engine and, when it has cooled, ensure that the coolant is approximately level with the Maximum mark on the expansion tank.


Mate, as you know water or fluid will find its own level if there are no airpockets or obstructions. It would be logical to assume that if you re-fill any container from the bottom any air trapped will rise.

If you want water / coolant completely around the head and the other appropriate areas then the top bleed valve should be in good working order.

There is a great diagram on page 276 of "Max Ellery's Factory Workshop Manual 1986 -1988. If you look at that diagram it may answer your question.

Personally, I've bled my VL as per the book and never had a problem. If I were you, I'd deffinitely get that top bleed hole and bolt fixed.

Err, that's if you want to

[creamy]

any one have a picture of these bleed bolts? so i know which ones to play with?
or a specific location on th motor?
i havent looked under there yet, but since i have never bled cooling system before thought i had better get the correct information before i attempt anything

[VL Berlina 5speed]

[Holdfast]

any one have a picture of these bleed bolts? so i know which ones to play with?
or a specific location on th motor?
i havent looked under there yet, but since i have never bled cooling system before thought i had better get the correct information before i attempt anything

As well as the excellent images already provided here's some additional images of the Coolant Bleed bolt locations on an assembled engine.

There's a few notes on each image to help users.

Holdfast60thCommodore/VL RB30 Bleed Bolt Locations - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

[creamy]

cheers.
thanks a heap,
very helpfull and usefull pics

[Holdfast]

cheers.
thanks a heap,
very helpfull and usefull pics

No worries creamy