My VL berlina had discs on the front and drums on the rear
it shudders under braking, suggesting 1 or 2 warped rotors
the rotors and hubs are not separate and Ive checked that the hub bearings are tight
are warped rotors common on the VL or could it be any other problem, Ive checked for loose bolts
if I get the rotors machined are they likely to warp again?
If the shuddering comes from the front under-braking then it could be the rotors or perhaps the pads are gripping only on certain parts of the rotor.
If your suspenion is in good condition, I'd take the front wheels off; check the rotors don't have any grease or oil spots on them and inspect the pads as best you can.
I've changed the rotors and pads on my VL quite a few times now, it's easy to do and cheap.
A set of new rotors will cost $60 -$70 and the pads about $24 - $36. A tube of (I think it's called anti squeal) silicon based adhesive that is aplied to the back of the new pads is a good idea as this helps to stop any rattling or squeal. It basically just holds the pad next to the caliper piston. But be absolutely careful that you don't get any of the compound on the face of the new pads or rotor.
Having said that, I'm a novice and not a professional. I've fixed my brakes many times but do things as per the repair manuals.
If in doubt with brakes I'd suggest you see a brake specialist.![]()
Depending on who does the machining. A good brake shop should be ok if the rotors are still within tolerance. I wouldn't bother machining floating rotors, but bearing rotors are fine to do.
thanks for all that I did fit new pads, will remove them and inspect for signs of uneven wear, the rotors didnt seem warped when I turned the wheels by hand
will also use that anti squeal stuff which may calm things down when braking
It would be hard to be able to physically see them warped. I tryed when i took the ones off the VT, But they were warped, the shudder was so bad we couldnt stay in our lane under heavy braking, it was pulling one way, it would just shake the wheel so bad.
The anti-squel will stop squel and improve braking if theirs grease on the rotos, but it wont do anything for warped rotors.
Fit new rotors and thoroughly clean them with CRC brake cleaner. The CRC brake cleaner is safe to use on pads aswell, which is good caus its quite easy to get grease on pads when fitting.
Safety should NEVER be compromised because of cost. If you can't afford to do a job (repair/maintennance etc) then put your car off the road until you have saved up enough $$$$$ You never know, by doing so, you may prevent you own 'untimely' death or that of others. Keep safe out there.
Not sure if your agreeing or disagreeing with me... But I think cheap chinese rotors are going to be better then shuddering rotors. And for much the same price as machining, you have a full size straight rotor, it may not last aslong as some good DBA's but they will do the job until he can afford to do it properly.
I agree that if you cant afford to fix something then take the car off the road, but not everyone has a second car and depend on their car for work or what ever their reasons are, so sometimes a comprimise has to be made. Aslong as the car is safe theirs no problem, if he was driving around with no brakes id soon be worried.
RDA are made in China, but I would hardly call them "cheap chinese rotors". They are made of the same steel, and with the same equipment as DBA, but costs are cheaper in China, that is why a lot of manufacturing has shifted to Asia.
Would you class Toyota Hilux as a quality vehicle? They are made in Thailand. Is ARB a quality brand? Also made in Thailand. (Bullbars). Just because it is not made here doesn't mean it isn't good quality. There are a lot of dodgy asian products, but you still have to remember that most things still have to pass quality control if imported in large quantities.