| VL Holden Commodore (1986 - 1988) Talk about anything relating to the VL Holden Commodore. |

14-09-2008, 10:40 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 126
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thermostat
so, the VL was taking a while to get up to temp, and wasn't keeping the temperature as steady as I would have liked.
so, I replace the thermostat, new coolant, and new hose clamps (about $80 worth total)
and now it gets upto temp quicker, but it doesn't maintain the temp properly, and gets hotter (too hot)
as you may know, the VL has 6 bars on the temperature scale, where should it be sitting?
after about 5 minutes of driving, its upto 2.5 bars... after another 15 minutes, its slowly climbed upto just over 3 bars... put it under slight load (Adelaide freeway) and it makes it way upto 4.5bars, and this is at night, with the ambient temp below 15 degrees.
the old thermostat, it never got this high, but would also sit lower with city driving.
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14-09-2008, 11:18 AM
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Apprentice Panel Pusher
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Ride: Project VL Show car, VS Exec, Tata (ute), YZ250F
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Adelaide, Trott Park
Posts: 2,172
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genrally a good cooling system sits around 1/4 to half on the guage
did you bleed the cooling system properly??? when you did this
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14-09-2008, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VL Berlina 5speed
genrally a good cooling system sits around 1/4 to half on the guage
did you bleed the cooling system properly??? when you did this
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yup.
hose in the top of the radiator, air bleed valves removed from the intake manifold, and wherever the other one is.
filled it up till it was bubbling out of the lower bleed valve, put the bolt back in there, kept filling till it was bubbling out of the top bleed valve, put the bolt back in there, and then I removed the hose from the radiator filler neck/cap thingo.
with the old thermostat, it would take 20 minutes to get upto operating temperature, and generally wouldn't get above 2/3 on the temp gauge, driving faster made it run cooler due to the increased air flow through the radiator.
perhaps the fan isn't working properly, but it used to run cooler!
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14-09-2008, 09:28 PM
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Ride: VL Calais Series II
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Perth
Posts: 207
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you need to have the engine running when you bleed it so the waterpump pushes water into the air pockets better.
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15-09-2008, 07:55 AM
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NEEDS MORE POWER!
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Ride: vl executive
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 252
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you also need to have the heater on when bleeding to get the air pockets out of the heater core.
i seem to recall someone posting that aftermarket thermostats run alot hotter than genuine.
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15-09-2008, 07:23 PM
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Ride: vl wagon
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 30
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I just got back from a trip up to longreach,3500km and the temp never went above 1st bar.
So i just changed everything (oils,pads,uni's)these last few days as well as the thermostat(triden from supercheap$40)and it now runs on the 3rd bar.Not to worried and hopefully will improve consumption(best 9.42,worst 11.76,av 10/100 km).But i'd be worried if it went over the 4th.
I'd take it back and say you're not happy with it and get a replacement.
colin.
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15-09-2008, 09:17 PM
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Ride: VL gold 5 Speed manual RB30 1 Owner since NEW
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: melbourne australia
Posts: 54
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compare and read both old & new thermo stamped temp values watever 82" cel etc
maybe new is higher than old one
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16-09-2008, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etch289
compare and read both old & new thermo stamped temp values watever 82" cel etc
maybe new is higher than old one
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thats kinda difficult when its in the car.
the old one was the standard, 76.5degrees, genuine Nissan part.
I believe my radiator may be half blocked.
so with the old thermostat, it opened too early, never allowing the engine to get to proper operating temperature, till I got to the freeway, and gave the engine a work out, but seeing as the engine was colder to begin with, it never got as hot.
now, with the new thermostat, it gets up to correct operating temperature, but because the radiator is half blocked, when you give the engine ****, it overheats because it was hotter to begin with.
make sense?
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16-09-2008, 09:12 AM
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Ride: vl wagon
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 30
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Na,doesn't make sense to me.The blockage would cause a backup still the same in real life.Easiest to try another make thermo.
Sounds more like a sticky thermo to me,by the way my new one seems to move around a little temp wise,as though it's dumping then closing,in cycles and i'm going to see supercheap today and see whether they'l replace it.I just don't want it to be the cause of head problems later,better to feel comfortable than have a nagging suspicion.
cheers
colin.
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16-09-2008, 05:05 PM
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maxpower QLD
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Ride: VZ SV6 / VL sedan
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: QLD
Posts: 188
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I panic when mine reaches the 3rd bar mainly becouse it rarely goes to the 3rd bar unles i have the air con on which isn't to often , very soon i'd like to replace all this stuff seeing as summer is coming and i don't wanna be stuck on the side of the road with a cracked head .
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16-09-2008, 06:17 PM
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Ride: VL gold 5 Speed manual RB30 1 Owner since NEW
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: melbourne australia
Posts: 54
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best thing is when u take it for a good run,
pull over now again etc and if u got thermomoter put it overflow bottle opening and take some readings
2 or 3 bar is alright imo
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16-09-2008, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leslloyd
Na,doesn't make sense to me.The blockage would cause a backup still the same in real life.
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it actually makes perfect sense, unlike your reply
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16-09-2008, 06:59 PM
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Ride: VR Berlina M5, VL SL
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 914
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I'm due to replace mine. Takes about 3/4 hr to warm up to just about a quarter lol.
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16-09-2008, 08:01 PM
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Ride: VL gold 5 Speed manual RB30 1 Owner since NEW
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: melbourne australia
Posts: 54
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its bad to have an overheating or under heating thermostat ( chew ur bores out ,uses extra fule )
motor should always be approx 180"
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16-09-2008, 08:27 PM
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Banned
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