Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: looking at buying a vl what to look for

  1. #1
    Ride
    None

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    256

    Default looking at buying a vl what to look for

    hey guys, im looking at buying a vl advertised in the paper for 1800, what should i pay close attention or look at more in the vls its a white sedan
    thanks any information will be excellent

  2. #2
    Ride
    '87 VL Calais with L67

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    357

    Default

    hmm. i wouldnt buy it if its white.
    This is good site to watch.I found it informative as I have been researching a lot lately on such matters such as you talk about.

  3. #3
    Ride
    vl berlina wagon 6cyl

    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    895

    Default

    remember its about 20 years old, check front and back window surrounds for rust, use a magnet to check for plastic repairs, look for water stains below dash

    it may have a cracked cyl head from not properly filling cooling system

  4. #4
    Ride
    vs calais eco

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Disney land!
    Posts
    1,113

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cool vr manual View Post
    hey guys, im looking at buying a vl advertised in the paper for 1800, what should i pay close attention or look at more in the vls its a white sedan
    thanks any information will be excellent
    I take it its private sale mate? if so then ask if its regstd? if its not regstd then ask how long it has been sitting? why was it unregstd? look up under guards for signs of tyre rubber suggesting that's its done burn outs (i.e hoons car) while your there check tyres for wear!! Reach under the car and check for play in the drive shaft, if there,s play then uni,s will have to be replaced!
    When you arrive @ the blokes house BEFORE you start the engine pop the hood and check 2 see if the owner has warmed the engine up (they do this so you don't see the amount of worn engine smoke or any nasty/knocks rattles that occur on start up).
    Now before you kick her over check the oil and note its color is it nice and clean? or neglected and sludgy?
    any signs of metal fragments? or emulsification?? the same goes with the auto box!! also look @ coolant is it nice and clean? or neglected and rusty? are all the belts in good nick or will they need replacing? the same goes for rubber hoses!! any corrosion around radiator pipes and battery terminals??
    Now with the radiator lid off start the motor and allow the car to run, listen to the noise of the fuel pump and the water pump both when you go to start the car and while the car is running! is it noisy? suggesting it might need to be replaced? now with the car running get out and look @ the water in the radiator cap, is it oily/sludgy or blowing bubbles? suggesting a blown head? if not and all looks well, then replace cap and give the motor a few good revs (after warm up) preferably with a mate @ the rear 2 see how much smoke she blows!!
    Once sitting in the car put foot on the brake and put the car into Drive taking note of the box! does it shift quickly/quietly/smoothly, any clunks from the diff?? and with the foot on the brake apply a little gas to see if the car wants to move easily! if she don't then bands in the box might be worn, and the box will possibly need a rebuild!
    also place the car into reverse and note the time it takes to change into gear from drive!!
    Ask for service history on both engine, TRANNY and diff!! while your @ it check 2 see what condition the brake fluid/pads are in and how well the booster functions when the car is running i.e is it spongy? also how well do the shocks work? being carefull not to buckle any panels push down on the corners of the car above the shocks to see how well they spring back up!
    Now onto the body!
    Is the paint faded or showing signs of neglect and left out in the sun? check 2 see that all bumpers match up in color, if the don,t (say the fronts a different color) then start asking as to why it was replaced? and get under the front and start looking for signs of an accident or if the cars been abused!! check all the usuall rust areas front/rear screens 1/4 panels under carpet in boot!
    Now the interior!
    Is it clean and looked after? vinyl in reasonable nick for its age? or does the car look like its been left out in the 50 year storm??
    Now electrical!!
    CHECK 2 see if all instrument cluster functions are working and while your @ it look at the coolant guage is the car running hot for any reason in fact check to see if any warning gauges show up i.e oil /battery ect! with a mate outside check to see all front lights/brake lights/ parkers/rear parkers/indicators are working!
    once all that is covered then work out what needs replacing out of all that stuff and factor that into your cost of buying! hope this helps mate
    Last edited by cxcxcxvcvcvc; 24-09-2008 at 09:19 AM.

  5. #5
    Ride
    None

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    256

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cxcxcxvcvcvc View Post
    I take it its private sale mate? if so then ask if its regstd? if its not regstd then ask how long it has been sitting? why was it unregstd? look up under guards for signs of tyre rubber suggesting that's its done burn outs (i.e hoons car) while your there check tyres for wear!! Reach under the car and check for play in the drive shaft, if there,s play then uni,s will have to be replaced!
    When you arrive @ the blokes house BEFORE you start the engine pop the hood and check 2 see if the owner has warmed the engine up (they do this so you don't see the amount of worn engine smoke or any nasty/knocks rattles that occur on start up).
    Now before you kick her over check the oil and note its color is it nice and clean? or neglected and sludgy?
    any signs of metal fragments? or emulsification?? the same goes with the auto box!! also look @ coolant is it nice and clean? or neglected and rusty? are all the belts in good nick or will they need replacing? the same goes for rubber hoses!! any corrosion around radiator pipes and battery terminals??
    Now with the radiator lid off start the motor and allow the car to run, listen to the noise of the fuel pump and the water pump both when you go to start the car and while the car is running! is it noisy? suggesting it might need to be replaced? now with the car running get out and look @ the water in the radiator cap, is it oily/sludgy or blowing bubbles? suggesting a blown head? if not and all looks well, then replace cap and give the motor a few good revs (after warm up) preferably with a mate @ the rear 2 see how much smoke she blows!!
    Once sitting in the car put foot on the brake and put the car into Drive taking note of the box! does it shift quickly/quietly/smoothly, any clunks from the diff?? and with the foot on the brake apply a little gas to see if the car wants to move easily! if she don't then bands in the box might be worn, and the box will possibly need a rebuild!
    also place the car into reverse and note the time it takes to change into gear from drive!!
    Ask for service history on both engine, TRANNY and diff!! while your @ it check 2 see what condition the brake fluid/pads are in and how well the booster functions when the car is running i.e is it spongy? also how well do the shocks work? being carefull not to buckle any panels push down on the corners of the car above the shocks to see how well they spring back up!
    Now onto the body!
    Is the paint faded or showing signs of neglect and left out in the sun? check 2 see that all bumpers match up in color, if the don,t (say the fronts a different color) then start asking as to why it was replaced? and get under the front and start looking for signs of an accident or if the cars been abused!! check all the usuall rust areas front/rear screens 1/4 panels under carpet in boot!
    Now the interior!
    Is it clean and looked after? vinyl in reasonable nick for its age? or does the car look like its been left out in the 50 year storm??
    Now electrical!!
    CHECK 2 see if all instrument cluster functions are working and while your @ it look at the coolant guage is the car running hot for any reason in fact check to see if any warning gauges show up i.e oil /battery ect! with a mate outside check to see all front lights/brake lights/ parkers/rear parkers/indicators are working!
    once all that is covered then work out what needs replacing out of all that stuff and factor that into your cost of buying! hope this helps mate
    hey there, wow thanks for the very detailed reply... will make sure i remember these when i go and look at car...

  6. #6
    Ozzie's Avatar
    Ozzie is offline JCCC Warrnambool
    Ride
    Ozzie'z 97 VT

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Warrnambool
    Posts
    1,859

    Default

    mate it'd wanna be in fkn excelent condition for 1800 (regestered)
    i bought a vn for 800 as is and spent 500 getting it on the road. 1300 all up 1800 including rego and the vn was in good condition.

    If its not a calais your better off getting something a bit newer or atleast try knocking him down to the 1000 mark

  7. #7
    Ride
    1995 HSV Clubsport T5, 1991 VN Berlina

    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,037

    Default

    check for a turbo. make sure it has one

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
    Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




  8. #8
    ucwepn's Avatar
    ucwepn is offline America just kicked in yo
    Ride
    WH statesman 5.7

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,420

    Default

    Ya that seems a l'il pricey, i sold mine for $700 unreg, great reliable cars but they can have their issues. They drive great with stockies but when you put rims on all the worn bushes and ball joints become evident. listen for rattly lifters, look for excessive white smoke on startup, listen for squeaky wheel bearings, check that the car shifts into overdrive (4th gear with the button pushed in) after a few minutes of driving as it takes a little time to warm up. Check for rust around the windscreen, rear window (and the base of the window), roof, boot (lift the rubber edging a little and see if theres rust underneath). Remember a vl with bad rust and shot suspension is gonna need $$$$ spent to get it safe and roadworthy.
    ========My Statesman 20's Mafless and 3.9's========



Similar Threads

  1. Buying from the UK
    By minux in forum The Pub
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 09-11-2007, 07:54 PM
  2. Buying a VX SS
    By SSbeast in forum VT - VX Holden Commodore (1997 - 2002)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 16-10-2007, 07:02 PM
  3. Help Buying a VY S
    By Tank878 in forum VY Holden Commodore (2002 - 2004)
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-04-2007, 03:24 PM
  4. Buying a vn
    By Pub247 in forum VN - VP Holden Commodore (1988 - 1993)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 17-08-2006, 10:55 PM
  5. Buying a VL - What to look for?
    By Shifty1 in forum VL Holden Commodore (1986 - 1988)
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 24-12-2005, 11:59 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72