the over flowtank bubberling away possibly
My Rides
Project VEE EL
On the Build.... Full respray, Smooth bay, Clean motor, Turbo, Suspension, Brakes
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Yamaha YZ250F
My 'other ride'
VY Ute daily.......Dumped on 18s
The Aussie PackMule
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maybe there is air in your cooling system,
maybe those in the vn section could help more.
Nobody wants to play with me
My Rides
Project VEE EL
On the Build.... Full respray, Smooth bay, Clean motor, Turbo, Suspension, Brakes
Click on the link and tell me what you reckon.
Yamaha YZ250F
My 'other ride'
VY Ute daily.......Dumped on 18s
The Aussie PackMule
___________________________________________
SA JustCommodore Section
For Events and Local Stuff Click The Link Above
nah i just bought this vl lol, its just no put up yet
The car makes a like running fluids sound and shudders for about 20 secs then calms down, what do u mean by bleeding the system? i didnt empty it in the first place..
Also, i dnt have coolant in there, is it a must have?
you really should have coolant in the rb30,
bleeding the cooling system gets rid of the air pockets, you said you didn't drain the system anyway but if you put water in the radiator to top it up the head level is still as low as the radiator was, hence bleed the system so there is only fluid not air.
if you are not sure how to do it do a search it has been covered alot.
Nobody wants to play with me
does the car shudder? or the coolant tank?
was the radiator low aswel??
with a vl you have to bleed the cooling system if you drain it all or if the radiator gets too low
being a alloy head the head is prone to cracking if you get it too hot,
if you let air in the system this will heat the air and crack the head.
repair cost is ruffly $1300, so not a cheap fix
make sure the radiator is full, over flow is full and bleed the system.
ill find a thread on bleeding it for yah in a sec
My Rides
Project VEE EL
On the Build.... Full respray, Smooth bay, Clean motor, Turbo, Suspension, Brakes
Click on the link and tell me what you reckon.
Yamaha YZ250F
My 'other ride'
VY Ute daily.......Dumped on 18s
The Aussie PackMule
___________________________________________
SA JustCommodore Section
For Events and Local Stuff Click The Link Above
how to bleed
some good pictures though this thread, if you still are lost where there at just ask, ive got over 2000 pictures of my car over its build and quite a few of the manifold appart and togetherTO BLEED: (vl's need to be bled because the highest water jacket is above the highest part of the radiator)
18. undo the bleed bolt near the coolant temp sensor
17. remove the hose going from the filler neck to the expansion tank at the expansion tank end, hold it higher than the bolt hole and using a small funnel, fill until coolant runs out of the bleed bolt hole
18. reinstall the bolt
19. remove the bleed bolt on the plenum
20. fill till coolant comes out as above
21. reinstall the bleed bolt and hose and fill the expansion tank to an inch over maximum
22. start and run the engine until its at operating temperature. check for leaks
23. once cooled the level in the expansion tank should be on the maximum mark
doing this will make it run cooler obviously and prevent corrosion. if the system isn't bled properly the air trapped inside will create hotspots and blow the headgasket. its very important this is done right and re done on occaision just to be safe. i do mine every few weeks. another thing to note is aftermarket thermostats run hotter than genuine ones. our temp guage used to sit on 1-2 bars (genuine thermostat) now it sits just under half and warms up a lot quicker (dayco thermostat) we'll see how it goes i may put a genuine one back in cos i only found this out after actually doing it
Bleeding VL Radiator - URGENT!!!
My Rides
Project VEE EL
On the Build.... Full respray, Smooth bay, Clean motor, Turbo, Suspension, Brakes
Click on the link and tell me what you reckon.
Yamaha YZ250F
My 'other ride'
VY Ute daily.......Dumped on 18s
The Aussie PackMule
___________________________________________
SA JustCommodore Section
For Events and Local Stuff Click The Link Above
if the 2 bleeded bolts havent been undone for a long time they may be frozen by corrosion and can shear off with heavy pressure from spanner, some advise removing the hose high up on manifold instead
another way is to undo bolth bolts, and force water into radiator cap hole with garden hose
coat bleeder bolts with grease before replacing
if the car has factory air cond these noises are normal due to the air cond fluid equalising itself