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Thread: VL dying while driving

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    Default VL dying while driving

    my vl will start up and then drive fine and then about ten minutes later it just dies in the ass but if i work the acellerator sometimes it will come back to life and id have to sit for 5-10 minutes before it will start again but ocasionally it will start staight back up but its random how long it will run for and today i had it idling and took off the air flow meter pug and the revs changed but it kept running and wen i reved it it sounded like it was on a low rev set limiter???? does this mean my air flow has cacked it

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    cypher967's Avatar
    cypher967 is offline HSV VT 5.0 195i
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    i was talking to my mate the other day and when i ran out of petrol he put sum in it an had to jam a little stick in the fuel spout so the little flap stays open well turns out the stick fell inside the tank! and oddly enough thats wen it started playing up so it couldnt be that could it?

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    Goon is offline The Future.
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    Quote Originally Posted by treezey View Post
    i was talking to my mate the other day and when i ran out of petrol he put sum in it an had to jam a little stick in the fuel spout so the little flap stays open well turns out the stick fell inside the tank! and oddly enough thats wen it started playing up so it couldnt be that could it?
    Yeah anything thats falling in ur tank can casue problems, i suspect theres a rag in my tank which im soon to find out "as ive heard from another person, lol my mates n there ideas" .. overall its your crank angle sensor if not that problem..
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    thanks mate ill rip it out and see how i go i guess it has to be done anyways

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    jatsvl is offline NEEDS MORE POWER!
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    the stick may cause fuel contamination issues but so far as restricting fuel flow it is unlikely as the pump is inside the swirlpot in the tank. you should still take the stick out though.
    check your cas connections, make sure they are clean and secure .
    Nobody wants to play with me

  8. #8
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    detox_nath83 is offline Another VL Driver
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    i had this problem a year or so ago. after checking CAS and AFM it was not the problem(I know a lot about probs with these 2 things trust me. I think all RB30 owners do).
    I found in my situation it was my internal fuel pump(primer/Inertia) not the high pressure pump. Replaced it and it was fine.
    i Would say drive for 5 - 10 mins and then she would cough and splutter and die. wait like u have said and she goes good again. Check connections for both pumps (Front of fuel tank)
    Good Luck

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    i took the tank out and i didnt find the stick but i did find that the little mesh thing that filters the petrol in the tank was off and was laying in the tank so i put it back on and bolted the tank back up but i havnt hooked the lines up yet. (damn rain)

  10. #10
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    detox_nath83 is offline Another VL Driver
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    lucky u have a fuel filter then :P
    Caus that could have caused damage to your engine if that filter was not in place sucking up crap in the fuel u will be amazed what u find in fuel tanks foreign materials

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    yea i think it is the cas now because taking out the tank didnt fix it so where is the cas located and how do i replace it and how much are they? just ball park fuigure

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    cas is in the dizzy under the metal plate, you buy cas kit with the bearings and rebuild the dizzy it is not hard! a new dizzy will set you back about $450 depending where you get it, it helps if you know someone in the trade to get it cheaper, a cas kit is around $100. try to avoid using a second hand dizzy and/or cas (it will only stuff up), unless you know it is not very old.
    Nobody wants to play with me

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