gday, my rb30 injectors are getting power but aren't firing and the EFI relay is all good, thers fuel runing through the rail aswell if any one noes whats goen on pleas help. cheers
also any 1 wanting to buy a vl rear seat in gook nick pleas ask. cheers
And any ideas on what i should do with my diff.. i was thingking of welding it so whats the best way to do it?cheers
Last edited by vl_comm; 16-04-2009 at 09:57 PM.
check the Relay near battery one which is connected up to a diode in the loom (3 relays located here, its the one closest to the overflow reservoir) i have had and still have problems with this relay for quite some time now. Probably just an earth problem.
check for corrosion on terminals/spade connectors and under the plug not just the relay.
this relay controls the injectors
hey cheers, thers only 1 relay ther?
but i fount a loose wire and re wired it. this wore ran from the relay to the positive terminal on the battery..now she idles on fuel but if ya try rev it it just dies?
i would give that a crak but now it just idles really ruff for 3-4secs then dies? and still dies straight away wen ya open the throtle?
exactly what u r stating is caused by CAS or AFM malfunctioning
pull the codes from the ECU
Code 11 - Crank Angle Sensor circuit
Code 12 - Air flow Meter circuit
Code 13 - Coolant Temp Sensor circuit
Code 14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor circuit
Code 21 - Ignition Signal circuit
Code 23 - Trottle Switch circuit
Code 24 - Neutral Start Switch circuit
Code 31 - System Pass (OK) (Non A/C), A/C circuit (A/C models)
Code 32 - Starter Signal circuit
Code 34 - Knock Sensor cicuit (Turbo)
Code 44 - System Pass (OK) (A/C models)
whers the ecu? and "pull them"? are they like fuses or relays i pull out?
(im new to VLs)
Last edited by vl_comm; 16-04-2009 at 07:55 PM.
ok
Behind your passenger side kickpanel is the ECU (Engine Control Unit)
there is a screw on the side Diognosic Mode Turn this fully clockwise carefully and turn your ignition on
in the peep hole there is 2 LED's Red and Green
RED = Tens
Green = Units
So if red flashes 2 times then green 3 times that means code 23 Representing Throttle Switch
press the throttle to cancel this code
Other codes to cancel is 14 Speed sensor(u can leave it) car needs to go over 10kms to cancel code
24 Neutral Switch.. Move the gear shifter to Drive then to Neutral and then park to cancel code
Then keep an eye on further fault codes coming up
Write down the numbers for us to help u with
codes are seperated with a slight pause
Goodluck buddy
ahh ok
my comms manual?
and how do ya choose which code to see?
or..it only flashes the codes that are playing up?
cheers
it will keep showing these codes in a loop u dont choose the code the code represents the problem the car has and then u can rectify
Dont worry about the 24 code then tell me the codes u get
ahh ok sweet il go have a look now.. coz its dark lol
cool
U live in qld??
sunny coast i can have a look for u. thats if u live here :P
lol nah i live in vic
ok heres the codes i got
-12
-14
-21
-23
-24
-31
Ok man well that would be your Air Flow Meter(AFM)...Very Common on a vl commodore i have had 3 go on me
have u got a mate with a vl working u can change it over to see it it fixes the problem. Or try one at a wreckers
Check the AFM Plug wires under the rubber boot for corroded wires Before hand
The AFM is the black box in the intake piping attached to the Airbox Lid
c Pic
Mate i always keep one spare as well as a Crank Angle Sensor(CAS) another common problem
Dont forget to turn the screw to take it off diognostic mode and ignition off
ahh ok
in there, there was a wire sensor or sumthing looking loose.. il try get a pic of it tomorow ans chek the wires.
also its on gas aswell and runs fine on gas is that a problem?
hmmm
try another AFM
Dont know so much on gas setup somebody on here will though
ahh ok just wreckers to get 1?
try it first though and keep receipt just incase it was damaged in an accident
yeah and ring around for cheapest one. anywhere from $40 - $150 depending on the stooge who sells it
Like i said check the plug under the rubber boot for corrosion
Goodluck
thanks for ya help mate il let ya no how she goes cheers
today i added a fue more wires to the wire a found the other day now it runs really really ruff when the throttle is open and idles like normal so do u still think its the AFM?
cheers
Thats what i said man
AFM as it is showing this error in your ECU
unless it was an old problem and was not reset.
But exactly what it is doing is the AFM responsible
then we go onto the CAS if its not the AFM
if the afm is stuffed when you add more air to the cylinders the AFM is resposible to calculate air flow and add fuel so it runs right
ahh ok il borrow a AFM and c what hapends
whats the CAS?
Crank Angle Sensor located inside dizzy. (I have a thread on Here on how to change one if need b)
hey i got a new AFM today and it now is running better on fuel but still really ruff in low revs so should i do sumthn with the CAS?
cheers