Huston, we have a problem.

[Morton]

My oil pump cracked yesterday, and upon removing it today, it appears that the crack has extended to the sleeve that surrounds the key shaft on the drive gear on the oil pump. See attached picture.

The alloy shaft is snapped clean off in the block, with only 2mm purchase beyond the lip on the block - not enough to grab and pull out.

I've threaded a bolt into the sleeve about 4-5 turns, and can't seem to pull it out with any force I can generate.

It occurs to me that the sleeve should just slide out - what on earth has happened to it? I'm having a bastard of a time trying to remove it Does anybody have any really bright ideas?!

Many thanks in advance

[danja]

Some WD40 + freeze spray on the sleeve might help?

[Morton]

Freeze spray didn't do much for me. I'm reluctant to use WD40, heaven forbid I get some into the engine and the next oil drail doesn't get it all.

[Reaper]

weld the bolt to the end of a pipe or something (like an extension) that you can put a "t" attachment on and then try to wind it out.

Reaper

[Reaper]

Freeze spray didn't do much for me. I'm reluctant to use WD40, heaven forbid I get some into the engine and the next oil drail doesn't get it all.

A small amount of WD40 won't matter one way or another. It will evaporate out just like small amounts of petrol vapor that finds it's way into the crank case.

Reaper

[Morton]

Ahhh yes, a welder would be so helpful Anything to wiggle it side to side would be a winnar. Unfortunately I have very little in the way of welding equipment i.e. nothing.

Damn good idea though. Anybody willing to bring a welder to Box Hill North? (has to be able to weld alloy I think! )

[Calaber]

Hi Morton

Going on from what Reaper suggests, the sleeve is only a slide fit into the block. Can you continue to thread the bolt into the sleeve and turn it clockwise to the point where it ceases to turn by itself and commences to turn the sleeve? If you can get the sleeve to rotate, you should be able to work it out by turning it back and forth to free it further and pulling it out at the same time.

The only thing I can think of that would prevent it coming out would be carbon build-up on the inner end of the sleeve, but that would only really happen with a really high mileage or neglected engine.

[Blown V6 Hatch]

The sleeve isn't that tight a fit....It should by rights just pull out. So, you have the bolt threaded in, why not just pull the bolt back out put a nut on the bolt, thread the bolt into the sleeve then wind the nut back against the sleeve so it locks the bolt in the sleeve if you know what i mean, then just wind the bolt and pull on it at the same time.

[Morton]

The only thing I can think of that would prevent it coming out would be carbon build-up on the inner end of the sleeve, but that would only really happen with a really high mileage or neglected engine.

300,000km and the previous owners used bad oils The distributor was a BITCH to remove, similar carbon buildup issues.

The sleeve isn't that tight a fit....It should by rights just pull out. So, you have the bolt threaded in, why not just pull the bolt back out put a nut on the bolt, thread the bolt into the sleeve then wind the nut back against the sleeve so it locks the bolt in the sleeve if you know what i mean, then just wind the bolt and pull on it at the same time.

Yeah I know, all I can think is of what Calaber mentioned - carbon buildup.

I'll try using the nut to lock it - that's an excellent idea, thankyou Although I suspect the alloy may be so soft, the thread I've created will tear the sleeve before the sleeve rotates.

I'll try that tomorrow though, thankyou again

*hugs and kisses*

[Blown V6 Hatch]

Yeh, well its only die cast i think so it will be fairly soft. I'll go and have a quick squiz at my spare engine block and see if i can come up with any other brain waves....lol

[Morton]

Thanks man, appreciate this

It would be good if I had the car running by Monday for my new job

[Blown V6 Hatch]

After having a look at my engine with the timing cover off, it is very possible it has carbon build up on the sleeve, as the sleeve protrudes through the block on the inside. Other than getting out the way you have been trying it might be a timing cover off job and wack it out from the inside. But, that's worst case i guess....

[Morton]

Ahhhh, good to know it's probably carbon - I really appreciate that

I guess I'll stick at it, use more freeze, keep hitting it... eventually something's gotta give. I'm really not surprised it's all sludged up after 300,000km of cheap oil.

Timing cover job would be depressing. Good thing I'm starting work at Burson Auto Spares on Monday

Thanks again mate


Meanwhile - anybody got a welder?

[Blown V6 Hatch]

Mabye just get all the required bits to make the tool as Reaper said and just go into a panel/mechanics shop and get them to zap it all up with a Mig tomorrow. Shouldn't take them more than 5 minutes.

[Morton]

hehe, if I could get the car to them, so they could zap the tool onto my broken diecast sleeve, it would be an ideal plan

[Reaper]

Hey Morton - can you get a hack saw onto there? Cut a slot into the shaft and wind it out with the biggest screw driver you can find.

As an absolute last resort try vice grips.

Or just drive it down here and I'll get the hammer/9" grinder onto it. either or both should work a treat

Reaper

[Calaber]

I experienced the same problem as you with a dizzy on a high mileage utterly flogged 253 years ago. When I removed the rocker covers, oil poured out everywhere. There was so much sludge in the motor that the oil return galleries in the head were completely choked.

I couldn't believe the fight I had with the dizzy to get it out. No doubt, that's what the problem will be this time.

Only other alternative I can see is to remove front cover etc as discussed.

[Morton]

Hey, that's a good idea!!! there's about 2-3mm protruding from the block, so I could get my dremel, and grind a slot onto each side of the sleeve. Then I could get something long and flat, and use that to turn it!

You're a smart man, I'm adding that to my list of things to try!!!

Thanks for the brainstorm guys, this is so much more effective than my bolt + washer + rope + anvil + bash it down with a mallet trick

[Morton]

I experienced the same problem as you with a dizzy on a high mileage utterly flogged 253 years ago. When I removed the rocker covers, oil poured out everywhere. There was so much sludge in the motor that the oil return galleries in the head were completely choked.

I couldn't believe the fight I had with the dizzy to get it out. No doubt, that's what the problem will be this time.

Only other alternative I can see is to remove front cover etc as discussed.

Yeah, luckily for me the problem isn't THAT bad. I just dread the day when some of the sludge dislodges and finds its way into my pickup

Hopefully I'll have an engine crane by then. That'll make the job easier

[Reaper]

Hey, that's a good idea!!! there's about 2-3mm protruding from the block, so I could get my dremel, and grind a slot onto each side of the sleeve. Then I could get something long and flat, and use that to turn it!

You're a smart man, I'm adding that to my list of things to try!!!

Thanks for the brainstorm guys, this is so much more effective than my bolt + washer + rope + anvil + bash it down with a mallet trick

I prefer the 9" and hammer idea myself but whatever works

Reaper

[Morton]

What did you have in mind with a 9" and a hammer?

[Reaper]

bring it around and you'll find out. If they fail I also have a chainsaw, 2.5ton towing capacity on the VE and a natural gas BBQ.

Reaper

[Morton]

I think I can see where you're going with this

[Reaper]

I think I can see where you're going with this

Yep - straight into another beer
I am at my engineering best after a few beers.

Reaper

[Calaber]

And if Reaper's gear doesn't shift it, I can supply some plastic explosive......