hey guys
I hate the hole cracking diff cradle sence and was thinking how hard would it be to switch the IRS out n to the standard live axle diff in?
Are the floor pans so diferent that you'd need to cut the back half off n swap it or could you bolt it straight up?
probly a pretty dumb question but worth a shot
Last edited by ducker85; 18-05-2009 at 10:13 AM.
a lot of work. not worth it for the effort or cost. just get a good weld job done on the cradle
1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD
Not a chance in making it worthwhile.
You could sell your car and buy a live axle car for less than all the work to do it on the Calais.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* * [] [VP CALAIS INTERNATIONAL] [EFI 304] [T56] [] * *
* * [] [VP BERLINA LX WAGON] [EFI 304] [T5] [] * *
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEALTHY's Shed Clean Out! Buy my ****
Originally Posted by davway
Originally Posted by JONNNNOOOOO!!
All VP Calais are IRS, if you don't want IRS then just by a roller without it and swap your stuff. The entire rear end of the car is different, right back to the middle of the floor. There are plenty of VP's aorund with live axel and all VN's even heaps of VS's if you want to update the shell (and downgrade your suspension)
Body by Holden, Soul by Brock
the Legend will live forever
VN exec T5: 15.1sec @92.2mph 1/4 mile, 9.7sec @ 74.6mph 1/8mile, 2.3sec 60ft, 0-60mph 6.827sec 22/11/07 Gtech competition
I noticed a difference.
I had a VS S pac at one stage and the rear was nowhere near as secure as my VP.
I thought you could do a special order for live diff factory? weather any1 done this tho.
i was thinking of turbo/supercharging mine but I dont want the hastle of cracking frames from the extra load/turque. Because there no after market diff cradles n it's getting hard to find a wreaker with one.
no worrys guys. I'll either get a spare or if i sell the Calais i'll buy a VN SS to work with.
Yeah, quite a bit. Bumpy corners throw the live axel cars sideways, the IRS cars are alot more stable on roads like that, in the end a VP with IRS is very nearly identical suspension wise to a VZ with FE2 and the handling is almost as good too. I can't seem to break a cradle and Ive been trying really hardwhen I do I'll just be welding it up or seeing if a later model one can be made to fit. I beleive most people that crack them have had the car jacked up from under the diff
Huge difference. I drove my VP Executive hard through challenging hills, and I drive my VQ Statesman the same way - and I have noticed the VQ, despite more weight and a longer wheelbase, is far more predictable during weight transfer. Putting down power through IRS LSD in a corner is also much easier.
The only down side to the IRS setup is axle tramp, but I only get tramp because I run terrible tyresAnd people running big power get tramp on live axles anyway.
__________________________________________________
The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
__________________________________________________
there are a few ways to get rid of axle tramp i use a nolathene kit that has an extra rubber plate for the big round bushes at the front of your rear k-frame/diff cradle, all it does is angles your whole cradle forward a bit more so under hard acceleration your whole diff/cradle flexes back to straight insted of flexing back more,as for cracking diff cradles its just one of those things even the later model commodore vt/vx etc crack. . . .
{H1GHROLLR} CHEMICALLY SUPERCHARGED A.K.A NITROUS FED R8 CLUBBY and {HYPED UP} TWIN TURBO VX SS DAILY
There's a huge different man, a VR/S cradle will fix the camber issue's in the VP's and makes fitting 20's easier. the bolt hole for the diff are the same VP thru to VZ but because the floor pans change the cradle wont bolt to the body. I had one that nearly snapped (was in car when i bought it) And we just changed the one in my Dad's car as it's illegal to weld them (huge defect/no no)
The cradle is the same VP-VS just the hubs are different but mostly it's the VR/S ones that break
1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD
Im in South Australia mate, no road worthy cert. cops do the inspection and defect re-movalls and has clearly told me twice now DO NOT WELD, i hate the rules in our state some days
You are allowed to weld anything if it's been done to proper welding standards. Ie a good welda weld is allways stronger than the original material
Oh well South Australia is pretty famous for being.... well South Australiayou don't expect common sense from that place. All the way from absurd wheel laws, to stopping the rest of the country having a R rating on video games. In the end everything is South Australias fault
![]()
Just recently bought a VP SS. It came with VH SLE wheels and rubber to boot and hadled like a pig on a frozen pond.
Right I thinks get some wider wheels and rubber ( you can see it coming can't ya) limited budget and any tyre places were telling $1400 at least for new wheels and rubber.
Bugger that says I!! So I went to a wrecker bought 4 VT SS rims for $200 picked up a set of 10 mm spacers and shoved them on the back.
Should be apples says the bloke at the tyre shop. But it ain't.
I get a horrible shriek sound on bumps and some corners and when I jacked her up have seen evidence of tyre rub against the inner guard.
The suspension might be stuffed but I am not sure so what do i do before I wear either tyre or inner guard out?
Any help appreciated
Anfo