not sure with panhard, and other's..

[Fun_Bucket]

Went to Pedders a while ago, and i was told a new panhard bar was needed. Its quite loose, you can shake it around. Now is Peeders just trying to sell the whole bar, or do i just need to replace the rubbers in there..? Secondly, what are the bits of rubber called that sit on the top and bottom of the rear springs? are they called insulators? I read in another thread that they were only $2.50 each, is that correct?

[greenacc]

yes that is correct.
If the panhard bushes are flogged out you should be able to replace them only, but if the bar is bent or metal around the bush is worn get a new one.

[Fun_Bucket]

should i be able to tell if the metal is worn around the bushes just by looking at it?

[greenacc]

yeah probably , tho it would be easier once you get it off and take tha old bushes out. If your car is real low that might be why they said that. If not -those bushes are cheap, maybe $20 each so give it a go, should be a piece of cake.

[Fun_Bucket]

they quoted me $50 supplied for the panhard bar, which i just assumed includes the rubbers.. Can you drive without the panhard on? only ask so i could take it off and inspect, and then get what i need without removing, re-fitting then removing, and then refitting again..whaow..

[greenfoam]

Just pull the bar off and stick some rubbers in it it doesn't take long, just two bolts. Its a MAJOR part of the handling of the car and if you can shake it around the car would be terrible to drive and pretty much a death trap on the highway. So fix that asap. Just go and buy the rubbers they are less than 10 bucks each I'm sure

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

$50 for a panhard rod? I would say that is just for the bushes, probably quoted you polyurethane bushes.

[ScoHar]

I know you can deffinatly get Factory panhard rod rubbers, not sure on the whiteline ones tho, I did however when installing my panhard rod push one of the rubbers out (cause wasn't lined up properly) and they seem easy to remove and replace just depends whether they're the same as factory ones, but knowing whiteline they're prob a completely different shape and don't make replacement bushes.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

The factory rubber bushes are 1 piece, and are a mongrel to replace. Aftermarket ones are 2 piece and are easy to do.

[greenfoam]

I had no trouble with the factory ones, just lubed them up a bit and pushed them in, I don't think it took me long, was just a quick job on the front lawn after work one day. The two piece red urathane ones the car came with were stuffed. A really good suspension guy told me to go factory rubbers there

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Polyurethane bushes are like bearings, they need cleaning and regreasing periodically and they will last almost forever.

[Fun_Bucket]

went to Holden today, and got the panhard rubbers, they were only $2.50 each. They said its highly unlikely that the metal around the rubber will be worn, and that i wouldnt need a new bar. So i'll get around to that tommorow, and hopefully it all turns out well. Tried to get the spring insultaors, only one's Repco ect stocked were the nothelane? one's, from what ive heard, they can be a bit harsh, ride wise, and dont last as long...? So i'll have to see holden about getting some stndard ones..Thanks for the help so far guys

[Calaber]

The factory rubber bushes are 1 piece, and are a mongrel to replace. Aftermarket ones are 2 piece and are easy to do.

I replace them easily by using detergent on the new rubbers and giving them a good hard shove -they slide in pretty easily then, but if you try it with them dry, then yeah, mongrels.

[Fun_Bucket]

i'll remember the detergent when i do it tommorow, hopefully it will stop raining by then. Tossing up which springs to put in, i have some some kings stnd lows, and some stock springs, both sets are in super cond, but i'm thinking the kings may wear may wear my shocks out.....

[centy]

mate if you want to go low then you need a new panhard rod and shocks to match the springs.
to get the old panhard bushes out cut one side of them level with the metal then they just push out.
insulators are the rubbers above and below the springs one is dirt cheap and the other is about $25 ea. just can't remember which is which.

[Fun_Bucket]

yeah i'll probably just use stock springs, for comfort sakes mainly...

[Calaber]

The reason Centy advises a new panhard rod if you were to lower the car is because the suspension is pushed to one side permanently as the suspension is lowered. It's for this reason that adjustable panhard rods are recommended for lowered Commodores.

If you stick to stock springs, no worries though.

[Fun_Bucket]

the bushes in the rear control arms, ive seen for as low as $15, plus $9 P+H, are these worth replacing seeing as their so cheap?

[Calaber]

the bushes in the rear control arms, ive seen for as low as $15, plus $9 P+H, are these worth replacing seeing as their so cheap?

If you are referring to the upper control arms, yes, they should probably be replaced if your car has a few k's on it because they lead a very hard life and can wear out severely. You would be amazed what a difference it makes to completely re-bush your suspension front and rear with a car as old as a VP, if it hasn't been done before.

I made up a full set of removal tools from timber and steel pipe with heavy end plates and threaded bolt a few years ago, to replace all bushes front and rear in my VR, which had travelled about 300k without any of the bushes being replaced.

It was a difficult job for some of the bushes but the transformation in the car's ride and comfort, and the lack of bangs and rattles from the rear end, was amazing.

All the tools just sit in the cupboard in the garage now but they are quite easy to make yourself.

[savage1987]

Bjorn, I will have to remember that (regreasing polyurethanes) for next time I have any of my bushes out..

Panhard bar doesn't really need to be changed until you go past superlows... I had superlows with stock panhard for ages. My theory: if it doesn't guard rub, don't waste your money on an adjustable bar!

Also, damn this thread for reminding me that my trailing arms are in dire need of re-bush / replacement. Axle tramps like a demon.

[Calaber]

Bjorn, I will have to remember that (regreasing polyurethanes) for next time I have any of my bushes out..

Panhard bar doesn't really need to be changed until you go past superlows... I had superlows with stock panhard for ages. My theory: if it doesn't guard rub, don't waste your money on an adjustable bar!

Also, damn this thread for reminding me that my trailing arms are in dire need of re-bush / replacement. Axle tramps like a demon.

Savage

It's true that you can lower the early jobs a certain amount without altering the panhard rod, but if you ever take a look at your car from the rear after doing it, you will see that the rear wheels are off-centre with the car, I think the driver's side wheel ends up much closer to the guard than the passengers's side. (Can't remember exactly which way the rod is mounted.)

[savage1987]

Yeah I know, trust me been there twice.

Ideally, absolutely you should use an adj. panhard.. but you can definitely get away without it!

Passenger side is the closer side when you lower it. Rear axle goes further left the more you lower it. If you don't go stupidly low, the difference is minimal.

[SweetWagon]

Passenger side is the closer side when you lower it. Rear axle goes further left the more you lower it. If you don't go stupidly low, the difference is minimal.

Are you sure about that? To my logic, since the rod is mounted to the drivers side of the diff and the passengers side of the body, the more the suspension lowers, the further the body shifts to the passengers side (the diff doesnt move its on the ground) - hence bringing the tyre closer to the body on the drivers side.. But feel free to correct me if im wrong.

[Fun_Bucket]

its the passenger side that it goes to, i dropped mine down with out springs, and the passneger side tyre was hard up against the guard..

[savage1987]

Are you sure about that? To my logic, since the rod is mounted to the drivers side of the diff and the passengers side of the body, the more the suspension lowers, the further the body shifts to the passengers side (the diff doesnt move its on the ground) - hence bringing the tyre closer to the body on the drivers side.. But feel free to correct me if im wrong.

Positive. I totally understand your logic, I had to actually look at the car when this same issue confused me a year or so back.

The reason it moves the other way is that the mount to the body is LOWER than the mount to the diff. It is mounted to a brace hanging vertically down from the floor past the axle, if that makes sense.