Ripped up the carpet in the VN, in the cabin and the boot. I have decided that the sound deadener is coming off, probably both sides, and the floor will be finished in a nice clean coat of white paint.
There is a hell of a lot of prep work to do first.. just wondering if anyone can offer any advice or has undertaken a similar project in the past.
At the moment the plan is:
Chisel off deadener pads from inside cabin
Finish floor with wire wheel
White primer (many spraycans)
Alpine white - again probably spraycans, not sure how many coats I will need and therefore whether it will be worth buying a decent spraygun
Clear??? - want a good finish that can be polished if needed....
Someone tell me if I'm completely off the mark..
Sam
Last edited by savage1987; 01-06-2009 at 10:49 PM.
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
I have decided I'll need a spraygun for this job. Much cheaper that way.
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
Why?
Why would you do that, vn's sound like you are riding in a tin can at the best of times.
Removing the deadener would make it a real uncomfortable car to be in.
I dought you would have many people want to get in it a second time.
its a vn, why would they want to get in it the first time!!
for the deadener, goto bunnings and buy a $20 heatgun, and a scraper.
or, ive seen people have success with dry ice, which is supposed to take the glue off with the deadener(heatgun doesnt do this)
get a lot of prepsol or thinners for cleanup its gonna get messy
Thanks guys
Centy, because there is weight to be saved! Nobody refined ever rides in my car anyway man
**hopes mrs doesn't read this thread**
I'm hunting for kilograms to ditch. The car will end up being essentially track-spec, aiming for a stint racing later on![]()
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
And i was just about to say, are we go racing?
In a while, when the car is ready
Still a road car for now.
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
I think hes aiming for the shiny clean race car look, inside and out. Carpet is just old stinky wet dusty dirty mould and virus infested chemicals in the endonce you've spent 2 days scarping deadner off you'll realise how evil it is to produce that is too let alone stick it in every car Holden make. I salute Ford for having none in the new eco freindly euro cars. Sure they make a bit of noise bit it's well worth not having it in the car for the weight/fuel/world saving, it's very responsible. P.S only remove the deadner not the calk in the seems since that's all that holds a Commodore together really is that glue
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Savage, paint the floor with a big tin and a brush/rollerYou'll save a lot of money (pressure packs are expensive), and it'll come up fine!
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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You're rightthat's exactly what I'm aiming for. I'm glad somebody understands my newfound hatred for body deadener! I will be careful of the caulk, I hadn't thought of that
That is not a bad idea. Now I just need someone to tell me what primer to use
I've actually been thinking HVLP gun rather than pressure packs, still better to go roller or brush you think Morton?
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
roller would be better thin the paint a little and you would get a good finish and not overspray.
to reduce weight remove ac, line doors with a thin sheet of aluminium. remove the metal mouldings around the doors on the outside.
upgrade to a vs brake booster, they are plastic.
Make sure you have the small vn brakes on the front a they are smaller and lighter.
all these would save weight.
its a pain in the posterior i did my first vp race car with a heat gun and scraper and will be doing my new vns1 the same way soon as Jason said its bad stuff if you use a heat gun make sure your in a well ventilated area with the windows down and yeh get some thinners or petrol to wash ya hands with after its as hard to get of skin as it is metal especially with just soap and water have fun![]()
i wont tolerate cretins aiming to cause problems here at jc and nor will i hesitate to let the moderators know
http://robsbackyarddragraceing.bigblog.com.au/index.do
1) The best thing to get off the last of the residue, is acetone. Lots of acetone. I'm pretty sure a wire brush will just smudge it.
2) Prime it with a good outdoor rustproof primer. White Knight do a good primer for a decent price, and a 1L can should get you two coats all over.
KEEP IN MIND: If you use 2 litres of paint, that's 2 kilos of weight
I suggest you use acetone on the deadning, which leaves the factory rustproofing intact. Then fish oil the whole thing for rust protection, and once it's dried up, give it one or two coats of White Knight Rustkill Hammertone paint. That stuff does NOT need primer, so you save on paint weight![]()
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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LMAO!
aaaah shit
Thankyou morton and company for your input
I will get the deadener off and then decide what I want to do about paint.
Last edited by savage1987; 02-06-2009 at 11:21 PM.
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
Forget the fish oil, this is a race spec floor not an old cargo ship, get the deadner off and clean as you can without damaging the zinc or whatever the sheet metal is coated in, then use dexodine to be sure the surface is clean and any rust particles are disolved. Then paint it. Since you wont be using two pack (would have been good on the floor) just use a primer and white acrylic, then it will be easy to polish up and plenty waterproof enough to last about forever
Thanks Jason
Heat gun and some thinners and a mask will be coming home with me tomorrow I think.
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
i just did it the cheap way and used a chisel, sore hands for some days just get a mate around to help, i think its a good 20-30kg or something in deadner, atleast not sure cant remember, but the sound difference isnt that bad to be honest i didnt notice a big difference, but i am use to it now, but people make it out to be real bad and everything.
~ VN POWER ~ Click the scales
hehe just light the thinners up or as jason said cut out the floor pan and remake it from clean road signs