Fuel Sender Delema

[Verillius]

My drama comes from this...
The current tank has the two hose connections on the sender itself, where the replacement tank has one on the tank, and the other on the sender, I am unsure which hose should connect to the sender itself and which uses the nozzle on the tank.

[Verillius]

... Okay, after talking to one of the guys in at autobarn (who seemed to know at least a little something) I now know which hose connects to which, unfortunately it does mean I have another issue.

The tank and fuel pump/sender unit I picked up are from a VP series 1, where I have a VP series 2 and apparently the ohmages on the sender to the guage are different, and in all likelihoodup, the fuel gauge wont operate, is this correct?

[azzfox]

I noticed on my sender it has two hose fittings, but ones blocked off. Which must mean the earlier tanks had the return line connected to the tank itself, and later models on the sender along with the supply.

As for the different resistance values I cant see that being 100% true. I have a VP cluster in my VN and the fuel gauge works fine even though the VN cluster had the huge gauge and the VP the small one. The only thing that comes to mind would be tank size/shape. Pretty sure theres no difference, unless someone wants to correct me.

If youre really that concerned about it why not just swap the pump/sender over from the old tank?

[Verillius]

I noticed on my sender it has two hose fittings, but ones blocked off. Which must mean the earlier tanks had the return line connected to the tank itself, and later models on the sender along with the supply.

This is apparently the case, the tank I picked up has the return line on the tank, where the original I have has the two lines on the sender itself.

If youre really that concerned about it why not just swap the pump/sender over from the old tank?

I am tempted to do this, however, drama I have comes from in addition to a massive dent in my stock tank, the fuel gauge does not work, and part of this exercise is to rule out the sender unit as the faulty culprit.

[Renno]

In answer to the OP question, earlier tanks used a connector onto the sender unit for the feed line and a return line onto the tank itself. However after VP Series 2 they went for the feed and return lines onto the sender unit itself!

So to answer ur question, the return line goes onto the tank.

[azzfox]

The only other thing I can suggest is remove both sender units and check the resistance with a multimeter while moving the float/arm to 'empty' and 'full'. Not only will this tell you if they are different, but you will know if one is shagged. Might even get away with laying the tank level on the ground, checking the connector with a multimeter, then flipping the tank upside down and checking again. This will give you empty and full readings (hopefully). Saves pulling things apart.