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Thread: taking out/disconnecting tailshaft.

  1. #1
    pow3rslave's Avatar
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    Default taking out/disconnecting tailshaft.

    getting ready for taking out my engine and gearbox for a v8 swap. i've gotta disconnect the tailshaft from the gearbox.
    apart from about taking out the y piece from the zorst, the gregory's talks mostly about unbolting it just after the uni joint at the rear diff. (from the drive pinion flange) then the centre bearing support bracket from the underbody but doesn't seem to mention any bolts connecting the other end to the transmisson extension housing.

    is it really that these bolts mentioned are all i need to undo, and it just slides out of the gearbox?

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    pretty much yeah

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
    Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




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    Quote Originally Posted by VN_Luke View Post
    correct..... and watch out for the oil
    youre not supposed to tell them that! theyre supposed to pull it out, think that was easy, then get really annoyed when theyve ruined their clothes

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
    Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




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    It just slides into the gbox onto a spline

    4 bolts on the diff end, 2 holding the centre bearing and bingo its all out

    pays to drain the box first, an a helpful hint take note to undo the bolts from the bolt head not the nut, the nut pulls up against i lip an wont budge i learnt the hard way

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    yeah when i was under there i managed to get oil on my face just from contact with what was on the balance weight. at least i think that was oil.
    it's not possible to just disconnect it from the pinion flange and slide it out, but still leave it in the cradle? just one less thing i'll have laying round the garage. also it might mean i can get away with disconnecting the exhaust less entirely. i'm still using your twin cat and 3" y setup luke. i suspect it'll be a **** around to get off.

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    just some questions on bolting it all back up (gregorys is pretty vague)
    bolting the tailshaft back to the diff pinion, there was blue sealant on that flange, is this some previous overkill, or is this needed, cos a bit of oil came out when i unbolted it the first time, so it might have been done to hide a dead pinion oil seal.

    also there were 2 fat spacer washers on the cv joint loop, but i didn't notice where they came from, i think they might be from between the loop and the crossmember, can anyone confirm?

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    There shouldn't be any oil on/in the diff flange, or the tailshaft flange - no need for sealant between the flanges.

    however use locktite and orientate the bolts, so that either the bolt (or not) locks against a lip in the pinion while you turn. (can't remember which way) - locktite is a winner because these always used to come loose for me if I didn't use it!

    as for the washers in the cv joint loop - i always just install it body of car->cv joint loop->washer->spring washer->bolt... whether it should be like that, I don't know

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    the spacers go between the centre bearing bracket and the body if youre lowered leave them out all together
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    the spacers go between the centre bearing bracket and the body if youre lowered leave them out all together
    Ooo tailshaft->gearbox->pinion angle correction? do all models (both IRS and live axle) have these spacers?

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    Quote Originally Posted by VN_Luke View Post
    Ooo tailshaft->gearbox->pinion angle correction? do all models (both IRS and live axle) have these spacers?
    yip there to correct driveshaft angles after lowering they can vibrate if you leave the shim washers in there take them out and shes smooth as it must be there factory setup for the difference in FE2 and stock only stock height seems too have them and only live axle due to the diff not moving in IRS
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    what kind of vibration?

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
    Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




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    general driveshaft shake on acceleration normally. ive seen 2 cars with only one side with the spacer as well i presume someone just lost one LOL but it may have been like that for a reason
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    I've got no washers in mine IRS/FE2 , I'll look on my brothers factory FE2 car Luke

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    just remembered one more thing, i read somewhere (can't think of where) that cv joint shouldn't sit at too extreme an angle, i think i read 8 degrees? will my tailshaft/CV joint be cactus if i let the diff flange end sit on the ground, and the middle bit held by the CV cross-brace?

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    i think that will mean while its running wont do any damage while not driving
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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