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Thread: Diff!

  1. #1
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    Default Diff!

    My diff has been making a metal on metal rubbing/whineing sound for a while now, and yesterday started knocking.
    (my guess would be carrier bearings?)

    And then today, i gave it a punch from the lights, and as soon as second snapped, BANG followed by alot more banging ald clunking until i got home. I pulled up to lights at the seaford road off ramp, and came to a complete stop. then once i tried to take off, nothing, just revving. so i chucked it in reverse and then threw it into first as i was rolling and i guess it caught the gears and i was moving again

    Like i said, my guess is the carrier bearings.. would i be correct?
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    Quote Originally Posted by HARVZ-6 View Post
    id say all the gears are probably destroyed now aswell
    My thoughts exactly. i weighed up the cost wether to drive it home or get it towed. probably chose the wrong one.
    The stato has a very harsh shiftkit in it, which has been in the car for about 40,000K's and the car has done 371,000, first to second snap nearly gives you whiplash so i think it was time for the diff to give way (with all the burnouts the old owner did not a great help)

    Basicly, what would i be looking for in a diff that would last, with better acceleration on apprentice wages? or would it be better to go a standard diff, and get the pressure in the auto turned down a little?
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    Default

    If your cars only putting out stock power would the diff really be taking that much stress????

    And if it is the gears that are taking a beating why don't you just get them harden??

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    BrAdAsS is offline Banned
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    Default

    the diffs are weak.. im on my 4th with a more or less stock engine. at $750 for a full rebuild/install
    If it's the planetaries in the diff then a spool will stop that from happening but will cause other shit like breaking the cv's once a year lol

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    Well, it's stock as a rock apart from the apparent $2400 spent on the auto.
    I think i'm going to get the pressure turned down a little.
    I don't know why anyone would spend that amount on building a tough auto and not upgrade the diff or the tail shaft.

    If i put a 4.11 in with a spool, what sort of revvs would i be getting at 100 k's an hour?
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  10. Default

    4.11s? there are some calculations somewhere - ****ed if i can find them though! my guess is around 2400-2500rpm at 100km/h

    Quote Originally Posted by zai View Post
    I am not sutpid

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    4.11 are uselss in a street car with a an engine that makes power as low as the 304 does. 3.9's are the MAX. I don't know how you managed to break a diff in a VQ with a stock motor but I would put it down to bad luck / or no oil or something. The diffs are alot stronger than that so I wouldn't worry about it happening again no matter how hard you make it shift, the IRS cradle will break ages before anything else does

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    Default

    Ah i see. How come? What exactly would i experiance with 4.11's? i'm after quicker take off, so i guess i should take your advice and go 3.9's

    I pulled the diff out today and had a look inside, and the crown's chipped. not too bad, but bad enough, so it's new diff time

    Cheers.
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    a spool kills drivability, harder to do u-turns, use set of tyres a month for the rear lol, alot of axle bind and low speed, but yeah good fun when its wet

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    Quote Originally Posted by vn_v6 View Post
    harder to do u-turns
    I beg to differ
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    Quote Originally Posted by vn_v6 View Post
    a spool kills drivability, harder to do u-turns, use set of tyres a month for the rear lol, alot of axle bind and low speed, but yeah good fun when its wet
    oh god here we go again i hope stealthy don't see this lol
    i wont tolerate cretins aiming to cause problems here at jc and nor will i hesitate to let the moderators know
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    stealthy has been proved wrong but won't admit it.
    assuming it is a lsd, i have been seeing a lot of them were the pinion bearing have let go.
    This is probably what has happened to yours.
    Likley causes are
    1 old age
    2 oil has failed due to extra requirement of being lsd
    3 lsd puts more pressure on pinion when it locks causing faster wear.

    either way if it is live axle just get a secondhand one and jamin and maybe swap the lsd centre over.
    Takes a bit of skill to get the shims right. make sure you use the gear set from the replacement diff.
    irs, same deal.

    I have been paying $40 for std diffs at the dump up here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by centy View Post
    stealthy has been proved wrong but won't admit it.
    assuming it is a lsd, i have been seeing a lot of them were the pinion bearing have let go.
    This is probably what has happened to yours.
    Likley causes are
    1 old age
    2 oil has failed due to extra requirement of being lsd
    3 lsd puts more pressure on pinion when it locks causing faster wear.

    either way if it is live axle just get a secondhand one and jamin and maybe swap the lsd centre over.
    Takes a bit of skill to get the shims right. make sure you use the gear set from the replacement diff.
    irs, same deal.

    I have been paying $40 for std diffs at the dump up here.
    i must admit i picked up a vn running for 90$ so yeh either a center or a cheep diff aint to hard to find
    i wont tolerate cretins aiming to cause problems here at jc and nor will i hesitate to let the moderators know
    http://robsbackyarddragraceing.bigblog.com.au/index.do

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