My diff has been making a metal on metal rubbing/whineing sound for a while now, and yesterday started knocking.
(my guess would be carrier bearings?)
And then today, i gave it a punch from the lights, and as soon as second snapped, BANG followed by alot more banging ald clunking until i got home. I pulled up to lights at the seaford road off ramp, and came to a complete stop. then once i tried to take off, nothing, just revving. so i chucked it in reverse and then threw it into first as i was rolling and i guess it caught the gears and i was moving again
Like i said, my guess is the carrier bearings.. would i be correct?
The all new TATA Nano, India's $3000 low cost car, Runs on Chicken Vindaloo!
id say all the gears are probably destroyed now aswell
My thoughts exactly. i weighed up the cost wether to drive it home or get it towed. probably chose the wrong one.
The stato has a very harsh shiftkit in it, which has been in the car for about 40,000K's and the car has done 371,000, first to second snap nearly gives you whiplash so i think it was time for the diff to give way (with all the burnouts the old owner did not a great help)
Basicly, what would i be looking for in a diff that would last, with better acceleration on apprentice wages? or would it be better to go a standard diff, and get the pressure in the auto turned down a little?
The all new TATA Nano, India's $3000 low cost car, Runs on Chicken Vindaloo!
that happened when i crashed my car doesnt sound good
If your cars only putting out stock power would the diff really be taking that much stress????
And if it is the gears that are taking a beating why don't you just get them harden??
the diffs are weak.. im on my 4th with a more or less stock engine. at $750 for a full rebuild/install
If it's the planetaries in the diff then a spool will stop that from happening but will cause other shit like breaking the cv's once a year lol
does spooling/welding the diff damage/ put undue stress on the irs?
It puts more stress on just about everything.
Well, it's stock as a rock apart from the apparent $2400 spent on the auto.
I think i'm going to get the pressure turned down a little.
I don't know why anyone would spend that amount on building a tough auto and not upgrade the diff or the tail shaft.
If i put a 4.11 in with a spool, what sort of revvs would i be getting at 100 k's an hour?
The all new TATA Nano, India's $3000 low cost car, Runs on Chicken Vindaloo!
4.11s? there are some calculations somewhere - ****ed if i can find them though! my guess is around 2400-2500rpm at 100km/h
4.11 are uselss in a street car with a an engine that makes power as low as the 304 does. 3.9's are the MAX. I don't know how you managed to break a diff in a VQ with a stock motor but I would put it down to bad luck / or no oil or something. The diffs are alot stronger than that so I wouldn't worry about it happening again no matter how hard you make it shift, the IRS cradle will break ages before anything else does
Ah i see. How come? What exactly would i experiance with 4.11's? i'm after quicker take off, so i guess i should take your advice and go 3.9's
I pulled the diff out today and had a look inside, and the crown's chipped. not too bad, but bad enough, so it's new diff time
Cheers.
The all new TATA Nano, India's $3000 low cost car, Runs on Chicken Vindaloo!
a spool kills drivability, harder to do u-turns, use set of tyres a month for the rear lol, alot of axle bind and low speed, but yeah good fun when its wet![]()
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The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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i wont tolerate cretins aiming to cause problems here at jc and nor will i hesitate to let the moderators know
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stealthy has been proved wrong but won't admit it.
assuming it is a lsd, i have been seeing a lot of them were the pinion bearing have let go.
This is probably what has happened to yours.
Likley causes are
1 old age
2 oil has failed due to extra requirement of being lsd
3 lsd puts more pressure on pinion when it locks causing faster wear.
either way if it is live axle just get a secondhand one and jamin and maybe swap the lsd centre over.
Takes a bit of skill to get the shims right. make sure you use the gear set from the replacement diff.
irs, same deal.
I have been paying $40 for std diffs at the dump up here.
i wont tolerate cretins aiming to cause problems here at jc and nor will i hesitate to let the moderators know
http://robsbackyarddragraceing.bigblog.com.au/index.do