Hey guys!
Its me again ... Was just driving today, and just before.. I wanted to go out Night Driving. BUT, my Parker Lights were not working.. So I checked the Fuse Board, and yep.. I found the problem.. but lol, the bottom half of the Ruse Rod is melted inside the Fuse Slot..
Already tired to get some tweezers to pull it out, no luck. So, Im wondering.. Is there any way I can re-wire it or somthin to get me Parker Lights working?? without seeing a leccy .. Or I can't go nigh driving for a bit hehehe.
The fuse was supposed to be in Slot1 (Trip Computer. Head Unit, P/lamps) had a 30 fuse in it!!!! Instead of a 15A .. I have checked all me other fuses to see if they are correct and some wernt.. so there all good now![]()
Do you have to have your parkers for night driving?
You could bypass the fuse, but the fact that it blew/melted means it is drawing too much current so there could be a short somewhere
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Sadly, yes. P/Lamps turn on your Dash Lights and License Plate Tag Lights.
As for the current, I dont think it is. Im just a lil pissed to see a 30A fuse in it instead of a 15A .
As how to Bypass the fuse, how would I go around that? for it to work safely etc![]()
ALSO! lol. I've had the car 6months, and never had any issues with it before![]()
if you really can't remove the existing fuse by force, unscrew the fuse panel and cut the wires for that fuse off from the back of the panel **, replace with an insulated in-line fuse avail from repco, supercheap ect ect and will run the same style fuse for ya, so not much will change except the fuse location.
Also, this is one of those times (like all times) where simply twisting and inso tape won't suffice, be sure to use solder, terminals and heat shrink to keep it neat and ensure it will continue to work...
** one of those wires will be live positive from the battery and will have no fuse link protection, be carefull not to short it if you're too lazy to disconnect your battery when doing this..
Thank'sWill defiantly be doin this
.. Hope all goes well, and I will defiantly disconnect the battery hehe
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Ok guys! Update for this problem.
I've got myself an Inline Fuse, cut the wires etc etc.. And have Solderd them to where they should go.
IT WORKS!!
But, I will be checking it over to see if anything happens (Fire..etc)
Thanks again!
most cases of actual melted fuses in the fuse box is loose contacts generating heat in the fuse should be sweet now
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
For future references; By-passing the fuse isn't a good idea. The fuse is used so that when theres a problem the weakest link will blow (the fuse) so if the fuse blew, you might end up blowing up something else.
Most likely, once I've got new Struts in, I'll get the car down to a Auto Leccy and make sure it's OK. I'd prefer to use the Fuse Slot.. But for now, I can't![]()
ive replaced many headlight etc fuses in the vn-vp fusebox before its quite common i normally just use crimp on spade terminals and a blade fuse works great just they dont fit in a melted mess too easy LOL
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
Good job, glad you got it fixed without a whole bunch of drama's. I assume you've heatshrinked and soldered the connections out of view?
Should last ya a long time and give you no more trouble, just have a poke around the devices running off that fuse to make sure it's not gonna get blown again. (30A was a bit much, and what a nice cook-off you had there)
Trip computer and parkers should be fine, but if you've got an aftermarket headunit, i'd look at running it's own dedicated feed anyways.
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I got this same issue with my A/c fuse, its all melted around it. It blows about twice a year so i havnt bothered too much with it but this is a easy solution to the problem and might be worth my while to do this soon. Rep points....if i could.
Yep , all Heat Shrinked... Mind you, it was a hell of a job to do tho.. Tight space lol.
During the time I did this all.. I was VERY frightend that I may 'F' the whole thing up hehe
As for the cause, Im yet to find why .. However, I do remember.. A mate of mine hooked up a Amp, and unfortunately we think it may have caused it.. But, we are not game to use it again- I will aslo be checkin out the cables behind the Head Unit on the weekend, Just to be safe! Dont want my VP dead yet heheheh
As for runnin the head Unit with its own dedicated feed.. Im almost 100% sure I will be doing it, to avoid a more serious issue
ALSO! If anyone has any Q's on how to Install a Inline Fuse + Heat shrink etc etc, please let me know
Thanks again Coast, I owe ya!![]()
I would suggest do an Inline Fuse job. BUT, it's if blowin twice a year .. Then I'd be checking all your wiring behind your A/C controls. However, it's strange that an A/C would keep blowing its Fuse :S :S
If you can give me some more info, I might be able to assist you better![]()