Hey guys any ideas? My oil light has just come on and stays on. But my dilemma is that we had some pretty bad flood water here yesterday and i had to drive through it to get home!
It wasn't quite up to the top of the wheels (Lowered) but i got quite a bit of wash from other cars.
I was hoping that it was water in the sender plug but it looks ok and a blew into the connection with a straw to clean it out anyway. When i connected it back it's still dose it. So i'm hoping that it's an electrical problem. But i have recently done the inlet manifold gasket and the engine was full of crap. I did five oil changes to clean the oil out and it's been fine. So my only dilemma is could the oil pump filter be blocked? When the sender connection is disconnected the oil light is off so i geuss that the wiring is dry from there back. Any help would be great!!!![]()
If the oil pickup is blocked up it picked a strange time to do it... right during your flood.
Do you reckon water actually got into the oil?? I know youve done a few changes etc but IF water did get into the oil it absolutely ruins the senders. I remember when I did a head gasket on an EA (put heaps of water into the oil) when we restarted it the oil pressure sender blew apart.
I would go to the local wrecker and get another sender. Try that one out, and see if that fixes it. Its a much simpler job than pulling off the sump and looking!! For $20 or so, its a good diagnostic tool.
I'm pretty sure that water didn't get into the oil/engine but it definately would have sunk the sender for a short time. And i just made a few calls $15.50 from repco and $16.50 from the wreckers. What a joke!!
Do you think that this still may have caused it??
LOL, thats crazy! Cheaper for a new one!
Yea I do think the floodwater could have caused it. Its possible that the water got inside the sender and is still shorting it out. The plug isnt really watertight on the outside.
Hope that sorts out the problem 4 ya!
Fixed it![]()
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Thank god for that i was a bit worried!!!
It was the sender unit. I just replaced it and the oil light came on at ignition then went away after starting.
Thankyou very much for youre help!!!!!![]()
Check that there is a seal around the plug that goes on to the oil switch.I washed down the engine and had this problem and there was no seal...probably came off when someone replaced the switch earlier.
I fixed the switch by spraying with inox and shaking it around and leaving upside down to let the moisture to runout and then spraying with a bit of contact cleaner.
This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain
......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday
first thing i would do is check the oil for water(dip stick however you want) and if its got a lot of water change the oil quick and give it a bit of a run(i'v seen motors go like this but they were in water for a long time longer than yours but it cant hurt just to check). i wouldent realy care about the oil light in a well maintained car you should check oil manually regualry.
Ok hers a problem.
I fixed the problem by putting in a new oil pressure sender and everything was fine. I thought i'd go for a bit of a drive today and all was good until i stopped at maccas. I was in the drive through when i realised that the temp gauge was working for once. Then i thought something may be wrong.
I got home asap and the gauge was near 1/2 way up and i noticed that the engine warning light had come on as well. I jumped out and felt the top radiator hose and it was hot. I grabbed my multimeter and tested the sender while it was in the block and it was at 130 ohms which i had previously determined is boiling temp. I only flushed the radiator and cooling system a few days ago and the fan works because i turned the ignition back on and it was running!
Could this be getting hot from low oil pressure which doesn't matter how much the water gets cooled down it is still boiling ?????
I only just replaced the sender but maybe faulty???![]()
I doubt the new oil pressure switch is dodgy. Ive never come across that.
The engine is meant to run at about boiling point (98 degrees C) since it is pressurised so that is about right. The top hose will feel VERY hot, ie it should be able to almost burn you when you touch it. If it doesnt, then its quite likely that the thermostat is stuck open. If your engine wasnt getting enough oil it would have overheated worse than 1/2 way. Since your temp gauge doesnt work much its more than likely its been that hot for ages. My VP can get to 1/2 way in a drive thru.
If your worried though, you can either purchase or get a lend of an oil pressure gauge. If you hook that into where the oil pressure swich goes you should find that your oil pressure is about 375 kPa (or more) at 1850RPM.
PS: do a paper clip fault code test, see what the check engine lamp was about.
EDIT:
Found out that the fan only turns on at 107 degrees.