Hey guys, ive just put a VS ECOTEC V6 into my VP commodore, ive changed over the computer and the wiring harness, but the bastard won't start, it turns over and ive already checked for a spark, which is there, so i can only assume that the injectors aren't working? Has anyone done this conversion before? Any help would be awesome! Cheers
do a search theres a few that have here
i wont tolerate cretins aiming to cause problems here at jc and nor will i hesitate to let the moderators know
http://robsbackyarddragraceing.bigblog.com.au/index.do
where r u located mate
if you didnt fit the BCM and key reader and use the vs key it wont go unless you have a memcal with the security disabled so it doesnt require these extra parts
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
Wokka01, Do you happen to have any pics of the converrsion you could post up as im thinking of doing the same conversion, also post up any problems u have had etc cheers mate
Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them
Yeh mate for sure, ive only got a couple pics though. I'll try and get them on here ASAP.
Pretty much everything mechanical was a piece of piss, ive got the VP auto bolted straight up to the ECOTEC, obviously i had to use the VS exhaust headers, but they fit straight onto the rest of the VP exhaust, ive had to change over fuel lines, power steering lines ect, the only problem ive had is that after putting the VS computer and harness in, ive found out that the ****in thing wont start, apparently it has something to do with the VS computer or something, i was havin a look at some other threads and saw that its possible to run the VP computer and harness, but ive gotta look into that some more so im certain that i can do that.
i can do a chip so it runs without the keys and BCM mate if you get stuck
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
im guessing BCM would be (Body Control Modules) ?
Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them
ok cool, well i'm not the smartest person on the subject, so i dont exactly know how it all works, but would the chip be used for the VS ecu? Or would it be easier to use the VP ecu and harness and just get it tuned? I dont really mind that i wont have sequential fuel injection as its just a daily driver
you have to add the vp knock sensor coolant sensor and inlet air temp sensor if you use the vp ecu .also the vs ecu wont work the torque converter lock up and the speedo sensor wont work either
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
ok so it would just be easier to use the vp ecu, and transfer those sensors from the old engine?
If so, and i know this is gonna sound a bit daft, but those sensors would be located where exactly?
Air temp sensor is on the back of the inlet manifold and the bits off the throttle body. All my books say the temp sensors have the same rating so would not bothe changing it.
ok cool, so basically just the knock sensor needs to be transferred then? Is there nothing else at all that needs to be changed over? Sorry if i seem to be repeating myself, i just want to get all the info i can before i go pulling stuff off it again and ****ing something up.
theres a few good write ups on here hozy added one today on this very topic im sure. you need the inlet air temp sensor from the rear of the vp manifold under the neck for TB you will need to drill and tap the ecotech inlet manifold for it to screw in. the knock sensor is easy remove one and replace with vp one and unplug the second one its a mission with the engine in .some say the vs coolant sensor is ok some dont i just did VS to vr auto ecu and the sensor didnt seem to read right and was a bit broken so we changed it the adaptor can be bought for cheap it just screws in the factory hole and has a smaller thread for the vp sender and it saves fitting the correct plug onto the vp loom as they both run different plugs so you cant use the wrong sensorleave the cam angle sensor above the waterpump unplugged as there will be no plug for it and its not needed. i think thats about it
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
ok awesome, ive got a mate who's an auto electrician, so i think i might have to recruit him to give me a hand with it all. But otherwise cheers heaps for the info, i'll keeps you's updated on how i go with it, and Madsav, i'll keep trying to upload those pics for ya, my internet is being a little bitch at the moment
iac and tps are different on the ecotecs to so you may need to use them off the vp aswell.
(different as in wired back to front)
Wired back to front? lmfao
How about you just use these...
Guides For Ecotec Into VN/VP [HERE]
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Originally Posted by garth
when you compair the wiring diagram for the tps and iac they have the same ratings but the pins are allocated to components.
They would work but the pins on the plugs would have to be swapped around to suit them and i just can't be bothered.
I would suggest to get it running, run a VS manual tune with the immobilizer disabled. Maybe think about a VN loom later on, not sure how the speed sensor will go with that but maybe the getrag one is compatable?
I just had a look at your link hozy, and i seem to have most of it sorted, but i was originally thinking about hooking up the VP ecu and harness and changing over plugs and lengthening wires wherever needed. Would this not work at all?
Ok, sitrep, ive gone with the VP harness and computer, and the engine has come to life, YAY! only problem is, the revs are fluctuating between about 1000 and 1500 rpm, the first few times i started it, it would run for a bit, but as soon as i touched the throttle it would stutter and stall, im guessing this could be because the engine hadn't been started in a couple months, after a few more goes it started up fine and kept running, apart from the revs, the check engine light in the dash cluster is on and so is the battery light, any ideas?
check for error codes.
HAHAHA
yeah there are NO error codes, it's the O2 sensor, i know got the same prob, i bet if you do an error code check it'll come up as 12, and or 42/43/44
the ecotec is a lot cleaner than the buick (vn) and there is more oxygen in the exhaust that's y the check enging light is on, so in a way all it is, is that the vn/vp o2 sensor range is not good enough. If you need any help at all buddy you can contact me, as for i have a vs ecotec in my VN, running VN computer and all vn sensors, except for CAS and DFI those two are from the vs!!
you can see my girl here
YouTube - HICOMPVN'S 1990 VN Commodore Exec Sedan V6 With A VS Ecotec Engine!!!
also the idle is due to the ecu mapping, it needs to be reflashed/retuned to the vn/vp chip but run good on a standard tune, but be mindfull of pinging at full throttle under load, will ping bad, as for the vn/vp tune runs rich down low, then leans out at top end.
hope that helps
Hicompvn