VN not starting

[Twisted]

G'day guys,

I posted this over at another forum and I figured that I might as well ask here too, just to see if I get any responses.

My brother's missus' car refuses to start. You turn they key and all you get is a single 'click'. Here is what has been done so far to no avail:

1. Changed starter motors
2. Swapped out batteries
3. Neutral starter checked (The car has gearbox issues)
4. Checked and rewired loom from starter to the battery
5. Complete fuse change

As you can see, we've pretty much eliminated all the generic problems but the bastard still refuses to start. Could somebody please throw a couple of suggestions? I kinda need this car fixed before Christmas

-Twisted
PS: Sorry if this is the wrong area, I was tossing up between the wiring section and here.

[Dum*P*ster]

Id be lookin at the ignition module .

But, you could try.. new plugs/Leads.. Maybe a coilpack?

[Warranty Void]

You need to check the amount of current arriving at the starter motor, or better yet use jumper cables to connect the starter directly to the battery (By the heavy duty terminals, not the thin wires.) The thin wires leading to the starter are the switching wires, they activate the built in relay in the starter that connects the battery cables to the starter terminal. Just use a test light to check the switching wires, if they have corroded then the relay won't engage, hence the "click". Did the new starter have a relay on it already or did you swap it out from the old starter? The terminals inside the relay may be scorched, clean with sandpaper. The big thick cables can corrode too, if the relay seems to be working ok then use jumper cables to double up the starter to battery cables. Don't forget to check the earth from the engine to the body, if there's not enough earth then the current can be trying to complete a circuit through the throttle cable or worse. Hope this helps. Or call RACV if your a member, they may not fix it but at least they'll give you a diagnosis.

[Twisted]

Id be lookin at the ignition module .

But, you could try.. new plugs/Leads.. Maybe a coilpack?

I forgot to mention this - sorry. The ignition is brand new and I switched the coils/leads over from the VP. Same thing (So they went straight back in there - she isn't getting them :P).

You need to check the amount of current arriving at the starter motor, or better yet use jumper cables to connect the starter directly to the battery (By the heavy duty terminals, not the thin wires.) The thin wires leading to the starter are the switching wires, they activate the built in relay in the starter that connects the battery cables to the starter terminal. Just use a test light to check the switching wires, if they have corroded then the relay won't engage, hence the "click". Did the new starter have a relay on it already or did you swap it out from the old starter? The terminals inside the relay may be scorched, clean with sandpaper. The big thick cables can corrode too, if the relay seems to be working ok then use jumper cables to double up the starter to battery cables. Don't forget to check the earth from the engine to the body, if there's not enough earth then the current can be trying to complete a circuit through the throttle cable or worse. Hope this helps. Or call RACV if your a member, they may not fix it but at least they'll give you a diagnosis.

My mate did a volt meter test and he said it was fine.. Iunno if he knows what he is talking about, but hey - he bought the volt meter over :P. The new starter was a complete swap from what my brother said - I wasn't there when it was done. If I can be bothered going down there later, we'll try this and see where we get. I am not a member of RACV/NRMA so if this doesn't work - is it time for the match?

-Twisted

[Warranty Void]

Concentrate on getting the thing cranking first, no point worrying about anything else until that's happening. Grab a test light and familiarise yourself with what it looks like at full power on a healthy battery. That will give you a reference for estimating current (bright = good, dim = poor) when you check other circuits. Go straight from the heads or block to the battery +ve (red) to check engine earthing is ok. Clip onto battery and give the engine side a good scratch with the pointy bit to make sure you've got a good contact. The multimeter will tell you if yo've got 12 volts or whatever but it's not going to tell you how much current there is without the meter being connected in series with the circuit. Test light is much more informative at a glance.

[jazzawithvg38]

Are you getting power to the relay for the starter?
do the dash lights go off when key is held in on position?

[redrags]

is it a manual? jump start it so it has no choice but start

[Twisted]

Are you getting power to the relay for the starter?
do the dash lights go off when key is held in on position?

The lights dim alot but don't actually die out.. Does this help?

-Twisted