hot pipe next to my leg

[Jordo2]

gday, does anyone know how to stop the hot water from going thru that 1 inch metal pipe behind the heater controlls without disconnecting the heater? my heater operates fine, it blows hot air thru the vents when its meant to, and doesnt when its not meant to so alls good there. my issue is just the radiant heat against my left leg off that pipe all the time regardless of the position of the hot/cold knob. cheers.

[Benboy]

If the heat continues when you adjust the hot/cold control to the cold position, then it seems that the heater switch (that controls the flow of hot water from the engine) needs replacing.

[Jordo2]

If the heat continues when you adjust the hot/cold control to the cold position, then it seems that the heater switch (that controls the flow of hot water from the engine) needs replacing.

the heat and cold thru the vents operates correctly when the hot/cold knob is turned, but the pipe still roasts even when knob is set to cool and cool air is comming thru the vents as normal?

[Morton]

From what I recall of my climate control system, the heater knob opens a flap to bypass the heater core, AND controls vacuum to the heater tap in the engine bay. Can somebody correct me on this?

If that's the case, then perhaps your bypass actuator is working, but the heater tap is not. That would mean that the core is bypassed, and cold air is blowing in - but the engine is still pumping nice hot water through the core.

You're talking about these pipes, right?



I would suggest changing the heater tap first - it's a very cheap and simple operation. Much less fuss than fiddling with the climate control system.

[SweetWagon]

+1 for heater tap, my old wagon used to do it, whilst my other vn, and vs do not, i always suspected a dodgy heater tap.

[Jordo2]

From what I recall of my climate control system, the heater knob opens a flap to bypass the heater core, AND controls vacuum to the heater tap in the engine bay. Can somebody correct me on this?

If that's the case, then perhaps your bypass actuator is working, but the heater tap is not. That would mean that the core is bypassed, and cold air is blowing in - but the engine is still pumping nice hot water through the core.

You're talking about these pipes, right?



I would suggest changing the heater tap first - it's a very cheap and simple operation. Much less fuss than fiddling with the climate control system.

thanks 4 that, and yes they look like the pipes. didnt kno there were 2 tho. also in the pic, which bit is the tap? cheers

[SweetWagon]

thanks 4 that, and yes they look like the pipes. didnt kno there were 2 tho. also in the pic, which bit is the tap? cheers

tap wouldn't be in that pic, its mounted down infront of the master cylinder in the engine bay. just look down towards the drivers side exhaust manifold and you'll see it, has a couple of hoses and a vacuum line going to it.

[Jordo2]

tap wouldn't be in that pic, its mounted down infront of the master cylinder in the engine bay. just look down towards the drivers side exhaust manifold and you'll see it, has a couple of hoses and a vacuum line going to it.

great cheers, i'll swap it. itl b a nice change not to get baked wen driving.

[Morton]

If you can, take your old heater tap into burson/repco when you ask for the new one. Sometimes they get confused and give you the wrong part - I think there's a changeover there when they went from one style to another.

[savage1987]

yep, a 2 hose and a 4 hose tap from memory

May not be heater tap though. Firstly check that your white plastic lever is pushing the button it's meant to push when you turn the dial to cold. (Vacuum switch that controls heater tap shutoff). Next check that button is working OK - press it, and get someone to watch the heater tap. Should be able to see it move as the tap does its thing. If not you may need a fresh vacuum line, or pull the tap off and check it can open/close freely.. or you may need a new tap I'm not sure how they work internally (never hit one with a hammer)

I say this because I replaced my heater tap years back thinking it would fix this problem. It didn't. I didn't know that switch existed at that point though. My lever for reasons unknown to me does not EVER reach that switch. Even with the switch adjusted EXTRA far forward. CBF fixing it though, since my floors run at an uncomfortable 50+ degrees (too hot to touch) on a long drive, the extra heat from that pipe means absolutely **** all to me

[purrVN]

yeah the vn series 1 has a different heater tap to later models as it has a totally different cooling system to match the different intake manifold and such

[jayy]

change the heater tap i had the exact same problem!!

[savage1987]

As stated already, it's not always the tap

[Blown V6 Hatch]

Just to clarify, the heater tap changed over at VS to a 4 outlet tap on the V6, All VN-VR run the 2 outlet tap. All 5 litres from VN-VT use the 2 oulet tap.

[jayy]

ahh well it fixed mine. ah well good luck anyway

[NOT.BT1]

since this thread is kind of about the same problem my car got hot today so i popped the bonnet and realised the heater tap was pissing out water everywhere so i pulled it out the check and it is rusted out bad i dont get payed til tomorrow night and need the car to get to work tomorrow and wednesday. so my question is can i put a piece of copper pipe to conect the pipes until i get the new heater tap?

[vp_commo]

It is hot coolant running through your heater core, it should be shut off.
There is a plunger/ thing under the bonnet that when pushed out it is on and when pushed in it is off.
you can turn it off by adjusting a switch/lever behind the air con dials.

The air con guy did it to my car yesterday, he said it can stick open somtimes and this is no good if your running air con at the same time, as it heats the car interior up.

He fiddles with a lever behind the air con controls and it shut off, the pipe on the left of the drivers leg is now cool and does not radiate any heat.

Mine does not have climate control, but I think it has more to do with the heater core shut off valve being stuck open.

you can check the plunger under the bonnet once you have moved the lever in place, to ensure it has shut off flow.

The plunger is on the left lower down below your overflow bottle there abouts, cylindrical in shape.

Cheers

Dan

[savage1987]

That 'plunger' is the heater tap's vacuum mechanism.

I sort of touched on this in post #10 above...

yep, a 2 hose and a 4 hose tap from memory

May not be heater tap though. Firstly check that your white plastic lever is pushing the button it's meant to push when you turn the dial to cold. (Vacuum switch that controls heater tap shutoff). Next check that button is working OK - press it, and get someone to watch the heater tap. Should be able to see it move as the tap does its thing. If not you may need a fresh vacuum line, or pull the tap off and check it can open/close freely.. or you may need a new tap I'm not sure how they work internally (never hit one with a hammer)

I say this because I replaced my heater tap years back thinking it would fix this problem. It didn't. I didn't know that switch existed at that point though. My lever for reasons unknown to me does not EVER reach that switch. Even with the switch adjusted EXTRA far forward. CBF fixing it though, since my floors run at an uncomfortable 50+ degrees (too hot to touch) on a long drive, the extra heat from that pipe means absolutely **** all to me

[vp_commo]

Originally Posted by savage1987
yep, a 2 hose and a 4 hose tap from memory

May not be heater tap though. Firstly check that your white plastic lever is pushing the button it's meant to push when you turn the dial to cold. (Vacuum switch that controls heater tap shutoff). Next check that button is working OK - press it, and get someone to watch the heater tap. Should be able to see it move as the tap does its thing. If not you may need a fresh vacuum line, or pull the tap off and check it can open/close freely.. or you may need a new tap I'm not sure how they work internally (never hit one with a hammer)

I say this because I replaced my heater tap years back thinking it would fix this problem. It didn't. I didn't know that switch existed at that point though. My lever for reasons unknown to me does not EVER reach that switch. Even with the switch adjusted EXTRA far forward. CBF fixing it though, since my floors run at an uncomfortable 50+ degrees (too hot to touch) on a long drive, the extra heat from that pipe means absolutely **** all to me

Yes I would say you hit the nail on the head.

Cheers

Dan