My dud VP

[D3V14NT]

Before I explain my current problem I need to rant about the previous ones with this damned car.

After a disastorous move from Geelong, Vic to Coffs Harbour, NSW I found myself back in Victoria with no car and the need to get back to Coffs. I found myself a nice looking 93 VP Berlina for $1000 at a car yard.

Was registered but no RWC, needed a side mirror replaced, new muffler, 2x new tyres for the rear and some suspension bushes replaced. No biggy I thought to myself and 2 days later I was off on my way back to Coffs.

About 10 kms out of Melbourne was when things started to go south. The cabin started to fill with smoke - oil leak onto exhaust was causing the smoke and a rubber bung in the firewall had popped out letting it into the cabin. Couldn't work out where oil was coming from but bung back in and on my way again.

40km out of Seymour, the A/C dies and the temp sky rockets - it had chewed up the belt. Joined the RACV (for one day ) and got a new belt delivered and headed back to Seymour. By the time I got back the new belt was already frayed - Idler puller was too narrow and the outer rib on the belt was stripping away. Another belt and a new idler pulley and I was off again.

Got about 30km from Albury when a cloud of black smoke erupted out the back of the car. The oil leak turned into a massive oil leak and I went through 4 x 5L oil containers just to get back to Coffs. The car also developed a crap idle, and a nasty rattle from the engine.

Discovered a dodgy silicon job on the back of the intake manifold which turned out to be a cause of the oil leak, replaced gaskets but over tightened and killed the new one .

Oil leak was still terrible though which I discovered was from a groove worn in the shaft of the harmonic balancer after I'd convinced myself it was the sump gasket and started pulling the engine apart. Speedy Sleeve on the balancer and a new front seal and good as new. Also replaced the timing chain, gears and tensioner with a crow timing chain kit and tensioner from holden hoping that the old loose chain was the cause of the rattle. It wasn't.

While putting the timing cover back on I managed to snap off one of the bolts that goes through the water pump, so had to drill it out of the block.

Fixed that, started the car and noticed a small plume of smoke from the oil pressure sensor. Oil then erupted out of the plug in the back of the oil pressure sensor followed by a lot of smoke. Turned car off and found out that the oil pressure sensor still receives power even when the car is turned off as it kept sparking. So quickly disconnected the battery before I burnt the car to the ground.

Replaced the oil pressure sensor and went for a drive. 20km down the road and the car suddenly starts running like total crap and wouldn't idle - MAP sensor died and needed to be replaced.

Finally no oil leak but still crap Idle and nasty rattle. Before I could try to fix the idle the car started leaking water out of the heater unit into the driver footwell. Had to pull dash out to check the evaporator which turned out to be fine was just a blocked drain pipe . Had to hurry to put dash back together and now I have a vacuum leak and some weird electrical issue. Occaisionally when I go to start the car It'll go to crank and just click once and all electrics go dead. Have to disconnect and reconnect the battery and try again multiple times until it decides to be nice again.

Found out yesterday too that it isn't really a Berlina. Checked the VIN and its an Executive. So it would seem someone has taken the panels and interior from a Berlina and placed it into this body as it has Berlina badges and what not all over it.

In my attempts to resolve the crap idle (100-400rpm idle, sometimes so low the oil pressure light flickers) I have replaced the o2 sensors twice, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the IAC, new plugs and leads, new fuel air and oil filters and injector cleaner.

My next move is to replace the Coolant Sensor (to ECU) and the ECU itself. If that fails im pretty much at a loss as to what to do next. And as for the rattle I really have no idea what it is, but I know it drives me nuts and is bloody embarrasing.

I should probably get rid of the car but I've become attached to it and its a BT1 so thats kinda cool.

Any ideas as to the cause of the crap idle and the rattle would be greatly appreciated. Would also like to say thanks to the VN/VP wizards on this forum as without your advice and info on here I wouldn't have known how to fix anything.

[D3V14NT]

Also forgot to mention that the car runs rich and blows plenty of soot and black smoke out the back and shows code 14, although I imagine that would be because of the o2 sensor getting fouled from all the crap in the exhaust gases.

[Verynice]

sounds the dud forsure man esecially from a car yard

[D3V14NT]

was a trade in that they wanted to get rid of, I now know why. But at least the engine still has good compression.

edit: almost forgot, it also did a front wheel bearing, the wipers dont work on #2 (assuming motor as I've changed the dash switch), the handbrake retainer spring on the left wheel went missing which caused all sorts of headaches trying to work out why the wheel would lock up, the rear door locks occaisionally decide not to lock/unlock (central locking) and the driver window falls forward in its tracks so I need to hold it back when it goes up (electric)

[Dum*P*ster]

Ask you self a serious question.. is it worth scrapping the car for parts.. or are you keen to fix it up ?

Your car needs a lot of TLC and $$$ by the sounds..

[savage1987]

Driver's window is an easy fix. Remove your door trim, one of those scissor mechanism bolts will be in an adjustment slot. Adjust until it works. My old VR 5L did this.

Also the wipers, sounds like a burned out PCB may be to blame. Did you change the entire switchblock? Unlikely to be motor I think as the other speeds still work. If it fails, I'd say it fails on all speeds.

[Dum*P*ster]

Driver's window is an easy fix. Remove your door trim, one of those scissor mechanism bolts will be in an adjustment slot. Adjust until it works. My old VR 5L did this.

Listen to this dude.. He speak the words of a wise man

[D3V14NT]

Thanks savage1987 I'll try adjusting the window mechanism tomorrow when I put the carpet back in (had to dry out from the leaking air con water).

Spent the day taking the dash off the car again, got the vacuum leak sorted and fingers crossed the electrical issue is too. Air Con isn't coming out cold though, I know the compressor is engaging and it was coming out cold before I took the dash apart the first time. Also, water is flowing through the heater core when the controls are set to cold. The white lever on the heater unit is making proper contact with the little vacuum button when the heater controls are set to cold so I'd assume that that isn't the culprit. Possibly the heater tap? Not sure here so some advice would be much appreciated.

Also replaced the cog in the odometer today too, will be nice to have that working again. Now I've just got to get the speedo working properly, it's only working intermittanly at the moment. Tried swapping the cluster with a known good one and still no good so I'm assuming a wiring issue or the speed sensor itself.

When I changed the wiper switch i swapped the whole switchblock but I don't know if the unit I swapped with was any good. I'll have to try and track down a known good one I guess.

I've pretty much made my mind up to fix this car and restore it to its original glory. I've spent enough on parts so far that I may as well as keep going with it now. I've got a new ECU, o2 sensor, PCV valve, and coolant temp sensor on order so I'll put all them in next weekend and see how the car runs then.

[purrVN]

Hey mate, your heater issue is almost definately a corroded heater tap i'd say, very common problem, they just rust our and stay open. when it comes to your drivers window, could be that, also could be that the stupid little plastic sliders on the end of the scissor regulator has snapped off, a pain in the arse problem coz you cant replace it, you have to replace the whole regulator, hopefully it just needs the runner that levels it out retentioning though. A problem with your oxy sensor will be the cause of your engine running rich, when you replace it check the error code again coz from memory 14 means open circut on the oxy sensor technically so it could be the wiring. As for the crap idle, wouldn't have a clue, same with the rattle, really need to hear it to work out what it might be

[Lost_Pete]

You have lots of patience and skill in prolonging the life of this car. Most would have let it burn!

How long did it take you drive to Coffs????

[D3V14NT]

Hey mate, your heater issue is almost definately a corroded heater tap i'd say, very common problem, they just rust our and stay open. when it comes to your drivers window, could be that, also could be that the stupid little plastic sliders on the end of the scissor regulator has snapped off, a pain in the arse problem coz you cant replace it, you have to replace the whole regulator, hopefully it just needs the runner that levels it out retentioning though. A problem with your oxy sensor will be the cause of your engine running rich, when you replace it check the error code again coz from memory 14 means open circut on the oxy sensor technically so it could be the wiring. As for the crap idle, wouldn't have a clue, same with the rattle, really need to hear it to work out what it might be

Cool, doesn't seem to hard to replace the tap so thats a bit of a relief. Do you know if this would be causing the Air Con to stay cold as well?

I'll know more about the window after I take the trim off and see whats going on in there, hopefully its just a quick adjustment and nothing major.

This will be the third oxy sensor to go into the car hence why I'm changing the ECU and coolant temp sensor as well. If this doesn't fix the problem I'm thinking it may be a wiring issue. I heard the earth for the circuit is the one on the timing cover, does anyone know if this is the case? It also threw a code 44 or 45, cant remember which, a couple of weeks ago but hasn't done it again lately.

You have lots of patience and skill in prolonging the life of this car. Most would have let it burn!

How long did it take you drive to Coffs????

Burning it was always in the back of my mind but I feel somewhat obligated to fix the car after the abuse it suffered from the previous owner.

The drive took 2 days, was only really delayed with the belt fiasco at Seymour. After that I was just refilling oil whenever I put fuel in. At least I know that if i'm driving in victoria sometime in the next 6 months I'll have RACV cover

Also turns out that I caused another problem when I took apart the dash today. If I try to use the central locking it'll blow the fuse. So I have to go over the wiring tomorrow to see if I can find what I stuffed up

[Dangerous Dave]

At least I know that if i'm driving in victoria sometime in the next 6 months I'll have RACV cover

Don't the RAC's have agreements so you can contact the local club in any state ??

Incase your on holidays or touring interstate for example....

[D3V14NT]

Don't the RAC's have agreements so you can contact the local club in any state ??

Incase your on holidays or touring interstate for example....

Wouldn't have a clue to be honest. I did get the cheapest membership option though so probably not in my case. Definitely the most expensive belt I'll ever fit to a car though . The worst thing about it all though is the under sized idler pulley was from a ford!

[savage1987]

Also, water is flowing through the heater core when the controls are set to cold. The white lever on the heater unit is making proper contact with the little vacuum button when the heater controls are set to cold so I'd assume that that isn't the culprit. Possibly the heater tap? Not sure here so some advice would be much appreciated. See my reply in this thread: hot pipe next to my leg

Also replaced the cog in the odometer today too, will be nice to have that working again. Now I've just got to get the speedo working properly, it's only working intermittanly at the moment. Tried swapping the cluster with a known good one and still no good so I'm assuming a wiring issue or the speed sensor itself.

When I changed the wiper switch i swapped the whole switchblock but I don't know if the unit I swapped with was any good. I'll have to try and track down a known good one I guess.

I've pretty much made my mind up to fix this car and restore it to its original glory. GOOD! I've spent enough on parts so far that I may as well as keep going with it now. I've got a new ECU, o2 sensor, PCV valve, and coolant temp sensor on order so I'll put all them in next weekend and see how the car runs then.

The drive took 2 days, was only really delayed with the belt fiasco at Seymour. After that I was just refilling oil whenever I put fuel in. At least I know that if i'm driving in victoria sometime in the next 6 months I'll have RACV cover Off topic but a mate once made a 50km trip in an EL with a piece of thick rope spliced with aid of a lighter as a drive belt when his flew off..

Also turns out that I caused another problem when I took apart the dash today. If I try to use the central locking it'll blow the fuse. So I have to go over the wiring tomorrow to see if I can find what I stuffed up I usually stuff up the wiring in some little way whenever I do a dash swap in my car.. nothing to worry about really

.........................................

[purrVN]

Cool, doesn't seem to hard to replace the tap so thats a bit of a relief. Do you know if this would be causing the Air Con to stay cold as well?

I'll know more about the window after I take the trim off and see whats going on in there, hopefully its just a quick adjustment and nothing major.

This will be the third oxy sensor to go into the car hence why I'm changing the ECU and coolant temp sensor as well. If this doesn't fix the problem I'm thinking it may be a wiring issue. I heard the earth for the circuit is the one on the timing cover, does anyone know if this is the case? It also threw a code 44 or 45, cant remember which, a couple of weeks ago but hasn't done it again lately.

I cant see how it could be causing the AC to stay cold, it say you probably have some kind of combination of problems there with your heater tap and the temp control switch or something.

As for the wiring, i'm trying to figure out a similar issue with my oxygen sensor at the moment as i've replace it twice and i'm still getting an engine light when the revs drop back below 1800 and i also have a crap idle and an overfueling problem. Still haven't got it sorted so let me know what you find

[D3V14NT]

Well had the dash apart again today to try and track down the issue with the Central Locking but couldn't work it out. Has me stumped, If I push down the drivers door lock it'll go down and make the noise that the central locking normally does, no other door locks move though and after about a second the fuse blows. I'll take a photo of the stray plug I've got down there and hopefully someone can let me know if it is supposed to be hooked up.

Didn't get time to take the drivers door trim off to check the window regulator as I spent most of the day stuffing around with the central locking wiring. Thank god I bought the manual or I would've had no hope with this.

Got the carpet back in at least, it almost feels like a luxury car after having a bare metal floor for so long. Replaced a heap of burnt out globes too, always nice to be able to see what gear your in at night haha. And it definitely makes the car look nicer having all the kick panels and what not back in there!

The central locking, warm A/C and heater issues are going to have to wait a fortnight. Next weekend I'm putting in the new sensors and ecu and I'm really not in the mood to take the dash apart again!

One thing I need to ask. I've spotted what seems to be a disconnected vacuum hose coming up into the engine bay from the transmission. Wasn't able to spot where it's attached as I couldn't get far enough under the car to trace it back but I have no idea where its supposed to plug into in the engine bay. I can't find any fittings without a hose on them already. I also had a mate do some sort of vacuum test on the intake and he reckons there aren't any vacuum leaks so it has me stumped. Can someone with a series 2 vn - vp please check their engine bay and see if they can spot where this little bugger goes?

[savage1987]

The line you found from the trans is most likely a breather from the top of the auto. Doesn't go anywhere. Usually tucks into the chassis rail, just tuck it somewhere harmless and out of the way

Sam

[D3V14NT]

The line you found from the trans is most likely a breather from the top of the auto. Doesn't go anywhere. Usually tucks into the chassis rail, just tuck it somewhere harmless and out of the way

Sam

Finally, something that doesn't need to be fixed! Thanks Sam.

[yadav]

You are pouring time effort and money into a very poor car that is so obviously not worth any time or effort.

When it comes to cars if your cutting your losses on a $1,000 car then you haven't done too badly.

When your done fixing a lifetime of problems on a car thats been very poorly maintained quite obviously, it won't be worth any more than when you started. Its not like your in posession of a car that is particularly rare or valuable either. Really there is no good reason to keep it.

[savage1987]

You are pouring time effort and money into a very poor car that is so obviously not worth any time or effort.

When it comes to cars if your cutting your losses on a $1,000 car then you haven't done too badly.

When your done fixing a lifetime of problems on a car thats been very poorly maintained quite obviously, it won't be worth any more than when you started. Its not like your in posession of a car that is particularly rare or valuable either. Really there is no good reason to keep it.

GTFO.

When the car is fixed he'll be happy and have an awesome base to start from, plus a HUGE understanding of how most of the systems in it are put together for if he gets another VN-S in the future

OP, keep doing what you're doing.

Sam

[MasterOfReality]

So quickly disconnected the battery before I burnt the car to the ground.

Personally I wouldn't be able to burn it to the ground fast enough.

But, its your car, your cash, so good luck with it.

[greenfoam]

This car is going to be full of awesome, I've got a feeling about it, as for the problems with the car. It doesn't sound any worse than the typical neglected VN-VS. At least they are easy to fix back to mint condition for cheap

[HoldrodeoLT]

wow i really respect your enthusiasm towards this "project" (sounds nicer)
makes me want to persevere with my Rodeo's issue's... keep up the good work

[yadav]

GTFO.

When the car is fixed he'll be happy and have an awesome base to start from, plus a HUGE understanding of how most of the systems in it are put together for if he gets another VN-S in the future

OP, keep doing what you're doing.

Sam

you would also have a good base to start from if you bought a good car to begin with. you can learn about systems with a haynes workshop manual.

on the other hand a poorly maintained 'bitsa' car will never be a great car no matter whats done to it.

i could understand what you were doing if it was a rare, sought after or valuable car, but it doesn't fall into any of those categories.

[Full Spectrum]

My VP was a troubled car when i bought it. Ex Bricklayers car was a mess. Spent 12 months on the car looking after it fixing it until it became the car it is today, And that is one very reliable running machine. Sometimes its better to fight the problems rather then fog them off. You can learn more early on with issues then off loading them when things get to hard.


Also OP you mention something about sot and black smoke out your exhaust ?. IS this like little bits of black spots and does it dirty the ground and the rear bumper up ?.
If yes then it's the Cat converter. I had this, And since i replaced my cat it's been clean and nothing has come out the exhaust. Turns out the cat was burnt out and spitting it's inners through the system. I had to learn to park in places that cars didn't sit behind me, Or else when they came out their front bars would be a mess.

Also central locking, I replaced the motors in all doors and this helped. They went from not working to fully operational.

If you do most of this work yourself, you will have a much better appreciation of it (if all goes well). You will also save a bit of money along the way. And if all doesnt work in the end you will have a greater understanding of these cars for the next time.