HELP!!! VN cuts out while driving.

[paulisdead]

I've been having major problems with with 1990 Holden Commodore VN Wagon. About a month ago, I started to get the "check engine light" when it cut out while driving as well as the battery light (altenator). I took it to the mechanics (since I am hopless with fixing cars myself) and the computer came up with an error code for the crank angle sensor. The mechanic replaced both the altenator and crank angle sensor and the car ran fine for about a day before it cutting out again.

I took it back and they kept it for 2 days without finding a futher fault with it other than an error for the out for the oxygen sensor (which I was told would not cause the car to cut out). They cleaned the connections (I'm assuming to the DFI module), jiggled the leads and said the car was running fine again. Fast forward a week later, my car has just cut out, yet agian. It cut out on the Friday night on the way home from work (it cut out at least 3 times before not starting at all), I lifted the hood unplugged the leads from the coil pack and jiggled the lead to the DFI module and got it started again.

It was driving fine for the rest of the night until I decided to drive Sunday morning when it cut out again as soon as I got out of the drive way. Again I did then same thing: unplugged/replugged and jiggled and got the car back home. I have not had the altenator light come on since I took the car back last time I will take this car back but the "engine light did come on breifly in the first day (which the machinic said was from the oxegen sensor). I will take the car back to the machinics on Tuesday, however, not knowing a lot about cars, what should I be telling them to replace the plugs to the DFI module (which has been suggusted to me) or do the connections on the coil pack (which I noticed were a bit brown on some of the top connections) need cleaning or is it something they haven't thought of?

[Rusty]

Without knowing exactly what the issue is, it is maybe worth replacing the plugs to the DFI as well as the leads / connections on the coil pack. Wont be a major jump in price and at least you have covered all bases!
It definately sounds like a connection issue as it is coming loose with the vibrations while ur driving. You have checked sparplugs and leads as well?

Could be completely wrong but thats what i would do! Good Luck mate

[paulisdead]

That's interesting because I when the car was towed by RACV, their machanic said that plugs to the DFI do wear out on VN's and should be replaced but the machinic I took the car to said it wasn't worth replacing the plugs!?!

[Rusty]

I hate that, conflicting info from two supposedly trustworthy sources - RAC and mechanic. Not sure how much the plugs are but probably worthwhile doing if fairly cheap.

[TheIceman]

dont tell the mechanic to replace anything, if you do, they will come back on you saying thats what you wanted done when you bring it back still not fixed and refuse to do anything under warranty for you claiming a false diagnosis.
just drop it off, tell them EXACTLY what is happening and when and let them diagnose, they are the mechanics and diagnosers, not you.
The number of people who were pen pushers and number crunchers for a living who claimed they knew more than i did when i was a motor mechanic was astonishing, they used to come in saying they had an oil leak reckoning its the rear main crank seal and demanded that to be replaced, only later on coming back with same oil leak giving up their self diagnosis and letting us do the work we found the oil pressure switch leaking and fixed that for them and the oil leak was gone, all for about $30 second time round when the first time cost them $400.

Being a VN commodore, i wouldnt put it past the ECU bring stuffed, but let them do the diagnostic work, not you. It may turn out cheaper.

[gavincommodore]

I have a 89 vn commodore which has these exact same problems. I filled up with fuel then 30 minutes later it cut out in slow moving traffic. A guy came over and poured water ion the crank angle sensor and it started again but not for long.
I left the car over the long weekend and when i went back monday it started fine. I drove it to a mechanics who later called that day and said he couldnt get it to cut out however he said it was probably the crank angle sensor so he replaced it and all seemed fine. It is highly fustrating, i got a crank angle sensor replace for $300! i now know that is far to much.

WHen driving home tonight 1 week later i filled up with fuel $50 worth and then 5 minutes later the car cut out in slow moving traffic again. i left it for 5 minuttes it startes and then cuts out to the point where it wont satrt at all. If i go back tommorow i am fairly sure the car will start however i dont know how long it will last.


Obviously the crank angle sensor didnt fix it , i am leaning towards maybe some crap in the fuel somewhere? seems strange it happens on a full tank.

Your help would be truely appreciated, am close to pulling my hair out right now!

[purplegoaty]

Hi there. hope this helps - but bare with me... I recently had this problem AFTER i changed the throttle body.. My VN manual wagon (as much as i love it has always idled like a pig and has recently started to chew the juice. I did a quick 'tune up' - replace top coils pack, plugs etc and cleaned out the throttle. Then in a fit of madness i decided to put on the old throttle body off my sons' wagon which has been taken of the road. I Connected every thing up and went for a spin. It actually ran a little smoother and Appeared to have more response. I gave it a boot full from a standing start and the ENGINE light came on a bout 2 seconds later and stayed on. The old girl didn't miss a beat though..I ignored the light 'cause i knew that the throttle was the only real different thing on the car..went to work the next day and she cut out on 3 occasions there and back. but only at higher revs. say when taking of quickly. NOW, this is what it was doing when on my son' car..We always thought it was the crank angle sensor. I took the sensor off and it was all rusty and gunked up...Knackered. So give the sensors a look in. Hope this helps. cheers.

[reaper01]

try change the dfi module, it gives the same code for the crank angle sensor from what i can remember. Done it on a statesman i had and on my mates vs. Just grab 1 from steel-a-part

[sik_dose]

Ive had the same problem once the car reaches operating temp it cuts out and wont start again. You have had the crank angle sensor changed and alternator which is the same as what i did. Then I changed my coil packs and DFI with a unit out of a VP I got for $30 at the wreckers. Never had a problem since.

[Jayjayvn]

My vn used to do that and I changed the coil pack and she never did it again.

[Jayjayvn]

And I got told the crank angle sensor aswell and I changed that aswell and it was the coil pack in the end

[ashsvk]

my missius car does the same thing cuts out when running a normal temp n engine lights comes on do u guys recommend to change the coil pack leads and plugs as well as the fuel fliter??

[chooky1980]

i say coil pack.our old vn done the same thing.i changed c.a.s,this and that and it ended up being the coil pack.once it got too hot it would cut out like the c.a.s does

[vnpeteskie]

hey all i have just started having these cut out issue's with my 90 model vn...along with needing to replace the rear wheel bearings,uni joints and centre bearing....auto transmission has been slipping for a lil while now..so i figured it was a combination of all these making it die.....but as chooky has posted it only does it @ higher revs mainly when doing over 110kph...so i dont know what to think i love my VN and wont to keep for life so if any1 can give me help with these issue or any VN/VP for wrecking...

[vnpeteskie]

plus doe's any1 know if a VR auto transmission will bolt up alright to my VN...?????VR's have an electric torque convertor is there anything that would stop me from just bolting it????

[Pub247]

yes it being an electronically controlled auto unlike the hydrualic controlled vn auto

[vnpeteskie]

ok so what is it i need???? or is it just not do-able???

[Pub247]

its not undoable its just more troubl;e and expensive than its worth vn-vr auto are basically the same except one is controlled by a computer whichh picks when it want to shift.

To do it you'd basically have to convert to a VR wiring loom engine loom and possibly motor (for cam sensor) then you have to get the chip rewritten to remove the security or change everything to run a vr bcm.

Much easier to put a vn/vp auto in

[vnpeteskie]

yer think ya right i knew it would be a challenge......but i can score basicly a complete VR for free givin the fact it has a blown diff and own by a family member...and yet on the otherhand the VR has lived done more klms than my 90 model vn(nearly 200,000 more)but most highway klms....???i think for now i will keep lookin saving for a vn/vp box as u said pub247 but sooner than later she's comin off the road to become a 2 year project car..

[vnpeteskie]

so i may still want everything i can get out of the VR to make something half decent

[UNDERCOVER HQ]

Vn gear box. And vn loom. Vn timing case cover. On to vr engine. Should be right. It not that big of a job.

[baalamb20]

Hey Mine did the same thing, get a series II coil pack from ther wreckers with DFI module on it, should get one for about $50 then it should be fine