my vn idled funny since i got it, but it was average at the start, slowly slowly it got worse, now it stalls doing u turns without throttle, when putting it in drive while moving slowly backwards (after reversing outa driveway) the car shakes, its realllly pissing me off, ideas?
vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh7ndCxqzgw
hard to tell, it aint exactly CD sound quality. but crap idle and stalling can be base idle not set correctly, IAC valve sticky, stuffed injectors.
but if you havent done so first, replace plugs and leads and clean throttle body and clean IAC valve and set base idle. check coil pack for resistance within specs.
A miss in a vn points to the DFI unit or the coils. Stalling can be the ECU, CAS, or combo af all of the electrical system.
If it's the leads or plugs it will brake down under load - like when going up hill it will show with missfire.
If the Ecu or DFI/coils are on the way out you will get the odd thud from the car at highway speed (like at 100kph)
White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
and 3 Dangerous non ABS VN's
what's that ticking noise near the end ? Sounds like a stray spark.... could be your problem.
try pulling one injector lead off at a time with the engine running, that way you can isolate which cylinder it is.
if you pull the lead off an injector and there is no or very little change, then that's your suspect cylinder.
judging from the video, it seems like a lead to me. Stall it up (foot on the brake in drive, a bit of throttle). If the engine starts shuddering bad, then you can almost garauntee it's a lead.
Check the lead resistance with a multimeter - usually they will just show an infinity (OL) if the lead is stuffed. Someone put up a very good tutorial here Checking Ignition Leads. If you haven't got a multimeter - BUY ONE. It's an essential tool for a toolbox, and very cheap these days.
you can also run the multimeter probes across the coils to check them. From memory should read no more than 14,000 ohms across each coil
vps and vns where beva the best car for a good idle but i had a similar problem and got a multimeter and found 2 leads where dead. so changed them and problem fixed
If the obvious - 'leads, 'plugs, coils - are OK, try pulling the injector plugs one at a time to isolate the cylinder that is missing. Listen for the engine rpm to stay constant with the plug removed from the dud cylinder. Temporarily disconnecting the IAC plug might help by stopping the ECM compensating when disabling the good running cylinders.
Inspecting the spark plugs - wet, oily, Carbon build up - might give a clue.
No manifold vacuum leaks; hoses, gaskets?
A compression test might be informative; burnt valve, worn cam or lifter, rings?
When you fix the miss, go back and do the base idle again.
A leaking exhaust manifold - VN S2-VR often crack on the passenger side - can sound similar to a dead lifter.