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Thread: engine rebuild v6 3.8ltr

  1. #1
    crofty77 is offline crofty
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    Default engine rebuild v6 3.8ltr

    iv swapped the engine over in my vn s pack and am thinking about rebuilding the old one, just after some info about how hard it is and the costs involved, i was thinking about replacing all bearings and the piston rings.
    cheers

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    not that hard. few hundred i reckon for just bearings and gaskets. dont use aftermarket crap gaskets, use genuine ones, they might cost more but they will last longer.

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    crofty77 is offline crofty
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    cheers, theres no need to do anything to the rockers when i do all the other stuuf is there? i changed engines because there was a rattling noise at the back of the engine which i was told it was the crank bearing

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    there is no need but i believe there has just been a set of high ratio rockers released for the vn series 1, would be a good mod while your at it. Or just throw in a bigger cam for fun!

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    Quote Originally Posted by crofty77 View Post
    cheers, theres no need to do anything to the rockers when i do all the other stuuf is there? i changed engines because there was a rattling noise at the back of the engine which i was told it was the crank bearing
    crank bearing?? sure its not a cam bearing?? cam bearings went on the series 1'a. if its a crank bearing then block will need to be sent off for machining if crank bearing is spun.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheIceman View Post
    not that hard. few hundred i reckon for just bearings and gaskets. dont use aftermarket crap gaskets, use genuine ones, they might cost more but they will last longer.
    I am doing the same in the next few months as in rebuilding my 91 vp engine.(Don't think I could do it myself). And was looking at a racing gasket set. Are the aftermarket 1's really that bad???

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    Quote Originally Posted by w8stedYouth View Post
    Are the aftermarket 1's really that bad???
    from my experience, yes they are. ive never done engines with aftermarket crap cork gaskets and the like and paper gaskets without the beading, all engines i have seen with aftermarket gaskets eventually leak prematurely or immediately, genuine gaskets are far better made and designed and prevent leaks if put on properly.

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    BURNOUT BAZZA is offline BOB DA FITTER
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    crofty77 is offline crofty
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    thanks, i never found out if it was the crank bearing properly, there was a loud knocking noise and i wanted it changed before it did get worse, so i chucked in a secondhand one so i can fix it, i'll just have to find out when i pull the engine down.

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    crofty77 is offline crofty
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    I say give it a go, I did a automotive course in year 10 when i was in highschool and i can say it was the best thing i have ever done, it has saved me thousands.

    Just take your time, be methodical and if it helps take step by step pics as reference items later. When you break it down there isnt much to an engine they are pretty straight forward. Make sure everything is clean as you go and then seek advice when you arent sure.

    Matt

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    crofty77 is offline crofty
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    yeah thanks i wont be touchin it for a couple weeks yet need to clean the shed out a bit before i start. how hard is it to line up the time when putting it back together

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    unless u go spastic on the cam and heads and what not just dot to dot (timing marks) would be fine
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    crofty77 is offline crofty
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    na i wont be doin to much to the cam and heads just replacing all bearings and gaskets to tidy it up, and wat ever else i decide along the way

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    vn_v6 is offline Blumpkin
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    just buy another motor, not even worth fixing these, pick up one off ebay for 250$, srsly who rebuidls v6's unless their going for power
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    just tow it around on a trailer and tell everyone its a turbo putting out 770 horses.

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    another thing to make it easier when you undo it all is to use some white out or something and put marks across two pieces then you just need to line the marks up, but as mentioned above just line the dots up.

    When you pull big end bearings and stuff off with the crankshaft number each bearing cap as they need to go back on in the same spot. Little stuff like that makes a difference, if you take your time and be thorough you will be fine. Then be slow and methodical when you put it back together, get a workshop manual and a good torque wrench for when you reassemble so you get all the various torque settings right, and use engine oil to lubricate stuff as you put it all back together i.e pistons, bearings etc etc. And speaking from someone who bought an engine where it wasnt done stagger the gaps in the piston rings so that they dont all line up.

    Matt

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