Real Main Seal VP V8

[tr3nt]

Hey guys,

Got a question for those in the know.

I know roughly about the rear main seals on the 5L are located at the back of the block, but I know for the EFI you gotta pull the block out and go from the sump or something?

Can someone shed light into this, and possibly tell me more about this..?

[Pub247]

Basically its a motor out job to make it easier. The rear main is located under the rearmost main bearing cap that holds the crank in.
Best done on an engine stand IMO.
You need to remove sump and depending on what type of seal you use (i prefer the neoprene ones)the crank has to come out. I have heard of people using rope seals (or 2 piece neoprene ones) and just removing the last main cap pulling old one out and feeding new one but i have never used rope ones or tried it this way. I've only ever done it whilst rebuilding one.
So i say while your at it you may aswell replace some bearings and a few more gaskets

[RSWNEY]

Yep, Pub247 is right, easier to take the engine out. The biggest problem with replacing the Rear Main Seal with the engine in the car is that it has to be done with the crankshaft in place and this makes it VERY hard to do a neat job of trimming the half seal to length. There is a big risk that after going to the BIG effort of taking the car apart that the new seal will leak the same or worse than the one you're replacing.

I replaced a leaking sump gasket in my 5.0 recently and it was a mission to get at. Needed to remove the subframe which involved undoing the engine mounts and supporting the engine, removing the steering rack, starter motor, flywheel cover, and sway bar.

Had a look at replacing the rear main seal as well while I was in there (it was only leaking a tiny amount) but I would've had to loosen the crank shaft bearing bolts, possibly separate the gearbox from the engine so the crankshaft can be lowered a couple of mm, slide out the rear main seal and slide another one in place - with the crankshaft lowered but still in place it would've been IMPOSSIBLE to trim the new seal nice and flush because the crankshaft is in the way. If you make a mess of trimming the seal you can't really use much sealant on the join because the sealant will stick to the crankshaft and be ripped as soon as you start the engine.

Hope this helps. Cheers.

[tr3nt]

Ok... Cool..

I knew it would have most likely been an engine out job, not TOO much of a drama for me as I won't be doing it, maybe a friend/neighbour etc..

With removing the crank shaft for is, is that difficult, or anything I have to remember within this? for example, it have to go in a certain way or anything like that?

this is all uncharted territory for me....

[tr3nt]

Time for a small bump I believe...

[Pub247]

Personally trent i dont think its that diffcult. I would do the bearing myself but usually that means a bit of measuring checking clearances stuff like that. If you dont want to do that then it should be all good.
Mark everything even bolts where they came from and which way the big end and main caps went on.
Buy a full gasket kits you might aswell as you have to replace half of them anyway.
You'll need a torque wrench make sure everything is doen to specs.
Make sure you do the pick up correctly other wise itll be another engine otu job if you dont get no oil pressure.
If you havent got a workshop manual (gregory's) buy one well worth the money it costs