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Thread: Flushing Radiator + engine maint

  1. #1
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    Default Flushing Radiator + engine maint

    Hey Guys,

    I'm planning to flush my radiator in a few days. I've looked through the how tos but just wanted to check a few things.

    To flush the engine I'll take these steps:
    Add flush to the engine and allow it to run for about 20 mins with heaters on hot on full.
    Pull of bottom radiator hose and top and reverse flush till clear
    Then run water through the radiator till clear.

    Anything else I should do? The how-to's said flush the heater core but do I need to? (not really sure how)

    Also I gave it a quick "pre-flush" with just water tonight and despite all pipes and radiator being absolutely filthy the water was coming out clean - is that normal?

    Also looking to do an oil change while I'm working on it. where's the oil drain plug? I'm assuming bottom middle of the block as was in my old cars but just in case its somewhere funky :P

    Cheers for everyones help

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    yes, add the flushing solution and take it for a drive, let it cool down before you drain it and flush it out with water though, you can flush the heater core out by removing the heater hoses from the engine near the water pump and flushing it with a hose. I'd suggest you need to so you make sure you get all the flushing solution and any sludge out. I'd also take off the overflow and give it a good clean out.
    Make sure your final coolant ratio is 50/50 so don't usepre mixed unless you totally empty the block. Your cooling system capacity is 10 litres so make sure you get at least 5 litres out of the system after it is flushed and full of clean water then add the 5 litres of concentrate and top up with water, any left over concentrate mix it 50/50 you can use it to bleed the system of air or put it into the overflow bottle,
    Sump plug is on the passengers side of the sump. When you put on a new filter fill it with oil first.

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    Cheers. How much oil does the engine hold?

    How do you bleed the engine of any air?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paulib View Post
    Cheers. How much oil does the engine hold?

    How do you bleed the engine of any air?
    Engine oil is a bit less than 5 litres I think. To bleed the air out your meant to open the bleed screw that's on the thermostat housing and any trapped air can escape. You can put a piece of hose or a coke bottle into the top of the radiator (make sure it is sealed) and fill it with coolant to get a head of coolant. Air can get trapped because the motor is higher than the radiator so making the coolant higher than the top of the motor will push any air out. The heater tap should be turned to hot and there should be enough stored vacuum for that.

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    Dont fill the oil filter up full of oil just put a little around the seal. And screw the oil filter on not to tight just firm and put a about 3 to 4 litres of oil in to the engine let it run for about 10 seconds then wait couple of minutes and check it it wont need much more. If i where you i would by 10 litres of oil just to be safe.5litres x2.

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    I've found adding a bit of oil into the oil filter before you fit it means the engine will get oil pressure faster when you start it. It doesn't spill out when you fit the filter. I recommend you do it.

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    Is "burping" the car the same as bleeding air from the system? i.e parking car on a hill so radiator cap is highest point then running the car for 5 mins and topping up radiator as air bubbles out.

    Also wouldn't the overflow remove any air (even if it is a bit slower)

    Yea I've always put a bit of oil around the seal but was told filling up the oil filter was bad for it...

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    People have different opinions of things, I for one have never filled up the oil filter but some choose to, some filters also have a pre oiled surface, a good engine gets oil pressure in a few seconds if its not going to get good oil pressure in 3 seconds of not having a full oil filter then your engines probly not worth the effort, the oil light should stay on for 3-7 seconds is common, if your really worried you could take the fuel pump rely out and crank it over for a second but I wouldn't bother I've never had an issue in 4 years of mechanics so far, but each to there own, as for bleeding theres a few methods depending on if it has a bleeding screw ect, yes the overflow will ge rid of a little air but not much straight away, if it's a vp Vr commodore it should have a bleed screw on the thermostat housing that comes out of the front of the engine, if so fill it up to the radiator block off the hose that goes to the over flow bottle (lock pliers ect...) start the car, Put your heater on so the water circulates through the heater core, then with the radiator open watch the air bubbles come out of it let it run for a minute or 2 top up the radiator then put the radiator cap on, let it run for 5 ish to operating temps keep an eye on temp, then undo the bleed screw while running some air will come out then a stream of water do it up again and repeat until there's a continuous stream of water, then unblock the over flow and top it up too max, and after a few drives check the overflow it could be low as the level will settle, seeing as your changing your coolants you could consider changing your rad cap and thermostat.


    If it's a vn I'd find a large funnel and wrap tape around the bottom until it's a tight fit into the overflow bottle, now the funnel is the highest point so fill it up and have coolant in the funnel run the car with heater on and just watch the air bubbles come out of the funnel, when there's no more or barly any take out the funnel (watch out the water could be hot) put on the cap and the coolant system will spit out the extra water in the overflow bottle, keep an eye on your temps for a while, Goodluck mate .

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    When bleeding a VP (which has the bleed screw) it might be easier to put a coke bottle in the radiator wher ethe cap goes, you cut the bottom off and put rhe cap end in and wrap some tape around the thread enough to seal it into the radiator. It should seal below the overflow hose. When filling the radiator use the stored vacuum to open the heater tap and fill the system using the coke bottle. Keep filling until the coke bottle is almost full and then open the bleed screw. The head of water in the coke bottle will cause enough pressure to force the air out of the top of the engine. Once no more air comes out do up the bleed screw and remove the coke bottle, save the coolant and put it into the overflow bottle. Start the car and run it until warm, let it cool and check the radiator level and overflow level. You can bleed it again if you want to be sure.
    Some VN's don't have a bleed screw they have a surge tank which is pretty much self bleeding as the 2 small metal tubes that come out of the top of the inlet manifold connect to the surge tank which is the highest part of the cooling system so air will find its way through these pipes assuming they ar enot blocked up which is not uncommon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paulib View Post
    Is "burping" the car the same as bleeding air from the system? i.e parking car on a hill so radiator cap is highest point then running the car for 5 mins and topping up radiator as air bubbles out.

    Also wouldn't the overflow remove any air (even if it is a bit slower)

    Yea I've always put a bit of oil around the seal but was told filling up the oil filter was bad for it...
    I think it may refer to the same thing. I have never tried filling it with the car on an angle so I can't comment but in theory it may work. I never used to pre flll the oil filter but have started since I got this VY as most damage is done at engine startup so I figure it can't hurt the engine as the filter is going to fill up with oil anyway!

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    I had to post.

    You should ALWAYS prime your oil filter with a bit of oil before you install it. Im not saying fill it right up to the brim so that it runs out when you install it, but just enough to soak the filter paper on the inside. I normally put about 100ml in and rotate it so that it soaks in everywhere. Once it soaks in you wouldnt even know it had oil inside it and it wont run out either (unless you add too much).

    Dunno about you naysayers, but those 1-2 seconds without 100% oil pressure are probably worth as much damage to the engine as a few thousand k's of normal driving. I know what im gonna be doing.
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    ....a mini spool creates greater airflow to the engine which means more oxygen into the engine which adds greater combustion which adds an all around performance upgrade.
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    Also found running your lights all the time looses 100kms to a tank also.


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    There's still oil in between the bearings and everywhere important, remembering you usually have the engine warm before draining the oil, a couple of seconds doesn't faze me as I've never had a problem all my engines still have good comp and no bearing knocks, as I said each to there own it isnt as silly as it sounds I have never seen mechanics at dealerships ect doing it, I think it's one of those over protective technical things, cheers
    Last edited by frdhtr; 11-12-2010 at 08:17 AM.

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    Cheers guys. Got it all done in the weekend. only took a few hours - flushing the radiator took the longest lol and I'm pretty sure I should do it again.

    I wasn't too worried about doing it all just making sure there was no special tricks for commies lol


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