hey guys, car starts fine, idles fine, when you rev it, it splutters/chokes. and blows puffs of black smoke
ive changed
injectors, spark plugs, leads, tps sensor, the other sensor nxt to it, fuel filter
and im still having the problem.
what else could it be?
maybe an exhaust blockage? maybe coil packs or dfi module? just my thoughts.... good luck mate
try the air filter mate, if it's blocked or dirty the car doesn't get enough air to burn the fuel properly
Hope you get it sorted, mine is doing the same thing (minus the smoke)
I took mine into Ultratune last time it did it and the bloke said it was a coil pack, that didn't work this time but might work for you.
Also from my experience black smoke usually means it's burning oil, not too sure how that goes in the new cars as my experience is old-school non fuel injected, no electronics cars.
Last edited by Yoshi667; 15-12-2010 at 11:33 PM.
I was under the impression that black smoke is fuel, blue smoke is oil.
My engine is much the same as yours, barely moves sometimes it splutters that bad. I've got a new engine + trans to put in there though (current is pretty stuffed anyway) just putting some goodies in it first. I'm hopeful that the problem won't re-occur with the new engine but if it does I'll be looking at the dfi, coil packs and the cat as the culprits.
1. 1990 VN Exec V6
2. 1993 VP BT1 3.8L - Now wrecking for parts!
3. 1991 VP Berlina V8 - RIP
Looking for a good condition VN - VS V8!!!
It's either electrical or fuel.
Check: coils (may be a fault in one or more), HT leads to plugs (leads may be faulty or not connected to correct plug), plugs (incorrect rating, gap or faulty), fuel filter (dirty/blocked), air cleaner element (dirty/blocked), bad or dirty fuel, water in fuel, dirty or blocked injectors, faulty fuel pump, are you getting any fault codes? if so, what are they?
check the fuel pressure regulator vacum hose for petrol leaking out of it.the ecu's have issues with the coolant temp sensor circuit and default full rich and do the same thing as well
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
forgot to mention has k&n air filter so thats fine, has a coil pack from a car that was working a1 so its not that. i havent changed fuel pressure regulator, called repco there $208 fark that.
ive got another fuel pressure reg from a vn on duel fuel its different though, (silver and alot smaller) and different bolts holes, can i use that?
black only on acceleration means is getting way too much fuel
and would feel like it is "bogging down" rarther than misfiring (shudder)
unplug your coolant temp sensor and the car will set the temp to 96 degrees and wont misfire
if not this then the air is not being metered properly or you have a severe vacum leak
if vacum leak would idle higher than normal aswell as a hissing sound at idle that isnt there normally
if its the air sensor you would have to replace it to check it and there expensive try a wreckers for that one
if the fuel reg was leaking fuel out the vacum port then it would be over fueling at idle and would not idle correctly (smooth)
to check pull vacum hose off start car at idle and see if fuel slowly drips out the hole the hose was on give it a rev and see if fuel squirts out
normally this would cause a lean mixture thoughwhen not on idle e.g. misfire due to detonation
i know its not the sensors ive changed them all from a car working a1, it drove perfect just got deregistered, im going to try the dfi module first, theres no vacuum leak
well if your 100% sure its not coolant temp sensor, afm, tps or injectors
my next step would be to check fuel preausure to see if it meets specification
this will check fuel regulator isnt sticking either
by leaving the gauge on and engine off you can see if there is an injector leak by pinching off the return line to your tank!~
i have had many occasitons where sensors that have been swapped either are damaged to begin with or plugs not tight onto sensor
or are just faulty especially coolant sensors, food for thought
hey mate,
will 99% be your coil packs, they are shit and if one goes you're left with a 4 banger and she splutters and struggles to accelerate, if you give it heavy acceleration it will sound like a lawn mower that has mated with a tractor. If you have the vn series 1 coil go get the tri pack so next time you only need to buy a single pack for two sparks, easier to identify the fault next time too
my vr had this problem, changed everything, tps, crank angle, plugs leads, fuel pump and filter... was coil pack... change yor coil pack and repace your plugs... even if new and look fine... fixed my prob for $300 mechanics who had no clue, $400 on other parts trying to fix it and a coil pack and spark plugs for $70 that fixed it it... no probs since..
yeh il try another coil pack but the engine light comes on and its code 22. ive changed the tps sensor and plug and reset ecu each time and still comes on.. any other thoughts?
okay so this one time, something happened to my car, and we went to drive, and it ran like absolute sh*t. i dont think it would have even reached 100 if we had of tried, we got to about 60, and felt that was as fast as we wanted to go, but yeah it was just having some serious performance issues, so anyway. turned out to be my coil pack, went and got a series 2 coil pack, problem solved. good luck!
its not the coil pack. 1. it has new coil pack. and 2. its code 22 (tps)
As delcowizzid said above, check the fuel pressure regulator.They can drain fuel straight into the inlet maifold when they leak.(hence the black smoke and bad running).Also if you are getting code 22-TPS, and you have renewed the TPS,then it could be that the new TPS is faulty too (especially so if its not a genuine holden sensor).Id try another TPS,try to borrow one from a mate or whatever,if the error code still returns after that,then check the wiring and its connectors from the TPS right back through to the ECU connectors.Look for corroded or bent pins in the connectors etc and breaks in the wiring obviously.Also how are you clearing the codes from the ECU,some people say to remove the engine fuse for a minute, but Ive found they will sometimes stay put if you dont remove the negative terminal from the battery for 5 minutes instead..If nothing works to get rid of it,it could be the ECU itself is faulty.
ive changed plug and the wiring and the tape all the way to the ecu is in tact so cant be that. i might return the tps and try another one, i changed the ecu and ran worse than the original one (and this ecu was running a1 in the car its in) when i reset the ecu ive tryed all different ways, and i know it resets because before i start the engine it says code 12 (everything is ok) and when i start it after 4 seconds the engine light comes on
im willing to put 20 bux direct deposit into someones account who can figure this c*cksucker out its draining my life taking the tps off 400 times -.-
check your plugs, even if new... tps plays with the transmittion... would be getting stuck in gears. might be a fualty ignition lead
(22 Throttle pos sensor below .2 volt for 2 seconds while engine running)
this one?
ignition off
take sensor off throttle body
plug it in loose
start car at idle
does code still set? if so try another tps (plugged in and installed 30degrees blah blah normally)
also check throttle screw is not adjusted so as to hold the throttle open it does not need to be touched