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Thread: Vn troubles

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    Exclamation Vn troubles

    Can any one give me sum help i got a wagon vn 1990 thermo not turning on at all, im trying to keep all standard and i dont really wont to hard wire it in can sum one help

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    Darcon666's Avatar
    Darcon666 is offline Evil is always around you
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    Simple fault finding... Do the fans actually still work?

    No, replace them.

    Yes, then it's probably the Temp Sensor/switch or wires broken/cut/connections disconnected/bad earth.... electrical fault.

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    Just connect a jumper wire from the termianls A and B on the diagnostic (ALDL) connector which is located under the glove box up in the left corner ,and usually hidden behind the trim or kick panel.It just looks like a 6 pin female wiring connector with nothing plugged into it.Then turn the ignition key to ON.If the cooling fan runs,the cooling fan and its other components are working fine.If it shows to be fine with this test,then replace the coolant temp sensor.Note,theres two sensors ,ones for the temp gauge,it has 1 single wire connected to it.The one that you have to replace is the other one with the multiple wires.Its the one the ECU uses to regulate the cooling fans etc.
    This link shows the pin positions on the ALDL connector.

    ---http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl160/vn_aldl.htm---

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    thank you very heapful fan working pretty sweet also have a nother slight problem when started a lil miss in it but when driving like a granny runs spot on give it a bootfull misses a spits any ideas anyone

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    Plugs and leads, and if they dont fix it,replace the 3 ignition coils.They can cause this to happen,they run good under light loads,but they break down and cause a misfire when put under heavy loads.

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    just done a lil check on the coils from 6 to 3 reading ruffly 5.75ohms
    2 to 5 reading 6.40ohms and
    1 to 4 reading 6.40ohms
    does this mean coil pack 6 to 3 stuff

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    as ong as they were all the same temperature when you tested them
    then likely they have a short in the coil windings (common as above)

    this ohms test can be used on the leads as well wriggle them etc check for a break

    plugs cost next to nothing these days chuck some new ones in it too~!

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    Ive seen these coils show up ok on a multimeter,but still cause misfiring,so even if the readings are within spec ,it cant be trusted.Now I keep a new spare coil for testing instead.I just fit it in place of of the 3 other coils,one at a time obviously, and drive it each time to see if the problem goes away.You can then be 100% sure its not any of the 3 coils then thats causing the problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett_jjj View Post
    Ive seen these coils show up ok on a multimeter,but still cause misfiring,so even if the readings are within spec ,it cant be trusted.Now I keep a new spare coil for testing instead.I just fit it in place of of the 3 other coils,one at a time obviously, and drive it each time to see if the problem goes away.You can then be 100% sure its not any of the 3 coils then thats causing the problem.
    this is due to temperature as i mentioned
    metal expands and contracts hot / cold this changes clearances
    and where some temps they wouldnt touch other (coil windings) and other temps they would touch

  11. #11
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    as updated before and done sum ohm testing on all leads and plugs all plugs are ok with a good gape all ohm tested on leds as
    follow no.1- 5.20ohms,no.5- 7.15ohms,no.3- 7.5ohms,no.4 and 2- 8.83ohms and last no.6 9.83ohms as well as coil pack above readings if any can help with the issue whould be great

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