Hey all my 89 vn v6 wen im at a stop or almost stoped sometimes the engine just cuts out nd is hard 2 start it did it the other week thought it was the fuel pump good thing coz pump was stuffed but its still doin it nd im stumped it has only done it wile im in gear (its an auto) any ideas on what it could b.
Any ideas is helpful
Cheers
At a guess, Crank angle sensor. Check your fault codes.
+1 crank sensor
but i would confirm by checking codes first
my old vn did the same thing,was the crank angle sensor
There's an echo in here![]()
A faulty CAS wont always throw a fault code.Sometimes they do,sometimes they dont.Ive seen a few now that havent.
Kool as guys would that also cause it 2 idle low wen in gear? Nd how would i check the fault codes. If its not the crank sensor wat else could it b?
Iv also been reading stuff bout dfi or sumtin could some1 tell me wat it is nd wat it does would it b worth replacing? Cheers guys
a faulty dfi module normally results in either misfire or no starting
what rpm do you call low? in drive stopped still foot on brake?
does the battery warning light come on sometimes?
my vn v8 also cuts out. But only when i go around a right hand corner and when the G's come on..
So basically have to be going hard around a right hand tight corner......
The engine cuts out - instruments - everything, then when the G's come off it cuts in again.....
First time it happened, well - i shat my self. Was slowly drifting to the kurb (no engine to drive me out of the corner) then the last second it cut in........
Thinking electrical, something moves and rubs on the body......OR the oil sloshes to the left of the motor and sensor cuts the motor out ???? When it does happen, it happens fast and of course i have my eyes on the road - so have not notice what comes up on the instrument panel either....
Ive seen a very similar problem,it was happening for months,it would just cut out around certain corners,no one could find what was happening.We tracked it down to being the main + power wire that goes from the battery,to the bolt that goes into the bottom of the middle fusible link,the fusible links are located down in front of the fuse box in the engine bay.Just follow the wires from the positive battery terminal if you cant find it.Theres a little black plastic door that pulls open so you can access this bolt,the bolt has to be removed if you want to replace the middle fusible link,and what had happened was the battery was moving around slightly from side to side when cornering,which was moving this power wire,this movement eventually caused the join where the wire has the connector crimped to it, to pull out of the connector, but it was making bad contact for ages and stopping the car, before it finally broke completely.If yours is cutting out,check the battery for any sideways movement,if there is,see if it moves this wire,and check the crimped connection behind the little plastic door.
hijackers~! love that they know what cable causes that though screwed me for a while one day!~
anyway thats not really excessively low idle is about 100 rpm off very close might be old motor okay
if raising the idle is all you want to do turn the stop screw on the throttle lever at the throttle body
(where your accelorator cable goes)
but be aware if you turn it to far it can set codes and faults in the transmission
it should idle at about 700rpm in gear on brake BUT cars are individuals sometimes and may be + or - like 80-100 rpm
so im not sure of the spec but if you turn it up abit it may not stall as often...
you could just need to increase your idle speed a bit
but without seeing/hearing car and faults i would say that the two problems arent related.
so cutting out likely to be crank angle sensor (common as you can see above)
but with out checking codes you wont know if its something else as if say for e.g. air sensor dies and stops car would set code...
where as the crank sensor is stand alone monitoed meaning unlesss its a weak signal rarther than a complete loss of signal
(they just die no signal normally) the engine light is not likely to come on
without having you chase your arse around
i would personally:
1.check codes if any stored (follow that code if stored)
2. check wiring connector on crank angle sensor is plugged in and tight (and terminals clean inside the connector)
3.check throttle body is clean from gunk etc, (especially around the butterfly of the throttle inside it)
if none of these help i would personally be watching a data display of the motor while the fault is happening to narrow it down to a specific sensor dropping out
or reading ridicously, for you that woulod mean getting a mech to look at it JUST to DIAGNOSE it for you
that way if you CAN fit the part yourself youll save some dollars