Engine mounts vn?

[PUSHIN]

hey guys, i need to replace my engine mounts, as the ones i have, have sagged.. so i found that there's hydraulic mounts, or regular mounts.. i understand the difference, one has fluid, one's solid.. but i was wondering if someone could clear up a few questions.. i read somewhere "hydraulic mounts came factory in this car" i dont think that was written about a vn, it was about a commodore, but not a vn, so my question, were hydraulic mounts standard in a vn? also, i've read somewhere that there is a fair decent price difference, so when i called supercheap, i was given a price of $155 (roughly) for the regular ones, or $165 (roughly) for the hydraulic ones, obviously i will go with the hydraulic ones as there is only a $10 difference, but is this correct? from what i've read they should be much more expensive then just $10 compared to the regulars.. so yeah, would somebody please just be able to give me a little detail on these hydraulic mounts compared to the normal mounts? (e.g how much better are they? do they come factory on VN's? i've read that they get rough after a while, someone said it could be the fluid leaking out any ideas on this?)

Thanks alot guys!

[glenn l]

i know vr onwards have hydrolic one and im pretty sure vn and vp do as well. the hydrolic one help soak up engine vibration. as for price are you talking a pair? if so i think thats about right.

[PUSHIN]

yeah mate thanks alot! i was told about 155 a pair of non hydraulic, 165 a pair of hydraulic.. Does anyone know if either of the two are stronger? i'm happy to sacrifice comfort for strength if the regulars happen to be stronger, but if not, well the hydraulic it is!

[Pub247]

solid ones are always going to be stronger. Problem with hydraulic filled ones is that the rubber perishes and the fluid leaks out then theyre stuffed. This will only happen faster if theyre allowed the be contamined by engine oil and the like which attack the rubber otherwise theyd probably last a lot longer

[D3V14NT]

Check out the TTT Performance sub forum on here. They've made up a new style of mount that should prove to be much stronger and durable than the standard mounts.

[VTSSDUDE]

Umm I was under the impression the hyrdaulic ones were stronger then rubber. Hence why Holden used them. Holden being Holden wouldn't they have used rubber ones if they were cheaper?

[groupa294]

I replaced my vn's with soild rubber from Sprints they were $49 each and trans mount is worth doing as well at $25

[PUSHIN]

thanks for all the help guys, one more question.. i've just got the engine mounts, i've baught a transmission mount, im clear on how to do the trans mount, but as for the passanger side engine mount i'm a little concerned, i read something about two bolts letting the gas out of the air con compressor, not keen... i had a bit of a gander, i noticed the 3 or 4 (not 100% sure on if i could see a fourth or not, but i think so) bolts going through the compressor holding the bracket on, so i'm assuming i just undo them four bolts connecting the compressor to the bracket and then i can make me way to the bolts holding the mount on after lifting the engine a little? any tips much appreciated guys! i have a feeling this will be a hell of a job :/ lol

[LordMayhem]

four bolts hold the pump top the bracket then it can be moved to the side then you need to support the motor on a jack and remove the mounts attached to the brackets and install is a reversal

[PUSHIN]

yeah, thanks alot mate, however i've already done it :P i just finished, i did both engine mounts, and the trans mount. buuuut now i've encountered a serious problem, when i went to move my car from the driveway, she wouldn't start eh.. it was almost as if my battery was nearly dead.. but at different points it would try kicking over.. like it did nothing, but i'd move the key slightly, and then it'd very weakly try to turn over.. but it was getting nowhere, i didnt try many times, nor for too long each time, but now it won't start, at all, AND the last time i tried to start it (you'll understand why i didnt try again..) smoke poured out from the bottom left of the windscreen, i think i may start a new thread asking about this problem.. it has to be something electrical in my opinion, why else would there be smoke when the car wont start..? but anyway, as pissed off as i am, i am very happy that i saved $400 by changing the engine, and transmission mounts myself. All the help was much appreciated, thanks alot guys!

[ucwepn]

When mine were done the solenoid cap came loose from the starter motor, to start it had to push the cap on the end in. Worth a try. Got super annoying in the end needing 2 people to start the car so i got a new starter motor, genuine bosch (one of the last made).

[Krisp]

there is a earth wire on the drivers side engine mount bracket

[vaxx]

I got sick of breaking mounts every few months and made some using a 2" x 4" nylothane bush as the center. Bolt thru bracket to bottom mount. Steel casing for the bush to go to the top mount. Almost solid, but with enough give to take the vibrations out

[Krisp]

I got sick of breaking mounts every few months and made some using a 2" x 4" nylothane bush as the center. Bolt thru bracket to bottom mount. Steel casing for the bush to go to the top mount. Almost solid, but with enough give to take the vibrations out

bet your neighbours got sick of you revving your guts out every where you went also

[vaxx]

No neighbors here Great thing about the bush.

I'm only running a 2 1/2" hotdog after the cat with a 3" straight pipe under the diff .

Surprisingly not that loud. 87 db at 5000 rpm

Got sick of the engine jumping around under brakes and acceleration.

Disturbing weight transfer in corners.