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Thread: Rewiring Driver's Side Power Window Motor

  1. #1
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    Default Rewiring Driver's Side Power Window Motor

    I've been chasing this prick of a problem for a while now. Originally I was getting voltage drop across the wire but near on every one I spoke to said it would be the switch. The switch has been replaced by a VY switch and I have confirmed 100% there is no problem at the switch.

    So, the motor works, the switch works, the control module for the driver's auto down has been bypassed. The last link in the chain is the wiring itself. I'm guessing that after twenty years of much opening and closing the wiring has cried enough.

    How much of a pig of a job is it to run new wiring to the motor? Does it simply need to be run from the motor to the control module? Has anyone here done this before and do they have any advice?

    The car is a VN Calais.

    Thanks guys.

  2. #2
    SweetWagon's Avatar
    SweetWagon is offline booosted
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    what's the issue exactly? The motor not operating? wiring could be an issue, I'd imagine mainly through the door grommet it could have worn out and resulted in broken copper strands, would also be worthwhile checking your earths (unsure where they earth).

    Have you tried wiring 12v direct to the motor from the battery?
    Power is measured in DECIBEL

  3. #3
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    The issue is a non functioning driver's side front power window.

    I have tested the motor direct to a 12v source and it worked fine. I have tried with a jumper lead from the switch direct to the motor and it worked fine.

    I am almost certain the issue lies with the wiring. Has anyone rewired one before and what are the potential problems to look out for when doing this?

  4. #4
    wamboin23's Avatar
    wamboin23 is offline Donating Member w/ Boost
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    best way to do it, would be two relays inside the door or drivers kick panel, with a fused 12v connection straight to battery.

    That way the original wiring triggers the relay (drawing hardly current - as long as your getting some voltage there), and the high current bit comes straight of battery, through relay.

  5. #5
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    not that hard of a job to run another door loom in. pull it out between the door and pillar, just remember where the zip ties go and replace them... you gotta replace the whole loom in one piece... its easier that way... does you door have the after market speaker pod added to it? sometimes if some has rooted around near the loom they might put a self tapper through it or a drill bit or something... just have a look... oh and check the to make sure your plug connectors arnt corroded...
    dont sweat the petty... pet the sweaty...

  6. #6
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    Turns out the blue wire was shot. I pulled the harness, replaced that wire and everything is sweet now.

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