what motor is better series 1 or series 2

[vn1989]

was just looking on google and on jc and saw a thread about series 1 and series 2 v6 motors and i was wondering what one goes harder and y i read that series 1 has its power low in the rev range and series 2 is higher i want to know this because my vn is auto and i want to convert it to manual and was wanting to know wether it would be easyer to get the crank adaptor or just put in a series 2 motor and loom any help would be appreciated,

cheers jack

[HSV5L]

s1 go harder but s2 are more reliable.

[Clutchy]

Why use a crank adaptor ? why not just use the 6 bolt flywheel they seem to be easy enough to find.

[vn1989]

oh u can do that i saw some were that the whole crank shaft is differant or some thing and i would need an adaptor but would that also mean a would need a series 1 manual gearbox or could i use either

[vn1989]

s1 go harder but s2 are more reliable.

ok thanks look like im staying with the series 1 if i can i might just keep the auto yet and shift kit it idk

[NPreston]

If you use a series 1 auto engine you will need an adaptor for the manual flywheel. Manual and auto cranks have different bolt setup. Doesn't matter what gear box.

[Jxw]

S1 has a higher lift and longer duration cam and differences in the intake manifold.
S2 have a revised crank that's the same between man/auto and 1 piece neoprene rear main seal that doesn't require pulling the crank out to replace if it leaks like a S1 2 piece rope seal.

Now the best combo would be a VR engine with higher compression, factory roller rockers and thinner compression ring (minor amount of smaller friction in the bore) with a VN S1 cam, yes it will fit providing the S1 timing gears/chain and timing cover are used as the cam uses a bush and spring against it to retain it's position and the s2 timing cover does not have the spot where it sits cast into it, it will all bolt on np at all and of course you want to run a S1 memcal tune. You should have an engine with more horsies than a stock vr in a lighter body for not a great lot of cash.

some minor proof, the cam journals measured the same between S1 & S2 cam and here's a pic of the S2 cam sitting in a S1 block, unfortunately the s2 block is buried in storage so i can't snap a pic of the s1 cam in it, but it fits, next to drill and tap the retaining screws for the thrust plate.


From what i have read but yet to measure and confirm the S1 cam is close to the crow cams stage 2 cam for the later engines, not exactly the same but close.

[GRPABT1]

Jeebus, you know alot about a crappy engine :P

Good tech there, well done

[Jxw]

nothing wrong with playing around with cheap stuff to see what you can get :P could go further and throw the earlier con-rods in which are lighter but that could end badly if you hammer it to much lol, the vr rods are heavier so a tad more strength.

yet to get my hands on an ecotec head to see how easy it would be to shove the bigger valves in and rocker's off it as i've read they have .05:1 more lift ratio, still not sure about that bit, should ask around here one day and see if someone can confirm this, but it'd be an interesting hybrid....

interesting read on the history of the buick 3800 http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...ck_engine.aspx
keep in mind it's an american article so the dates we saw the changes were slightly later than dated in the article, what they refer to as a series 2 is the ecotec
if you're looking to buy parts from the states with the cheap aud atm you can work out what suits go by the casting numbers and their years and you can soon work out what fits our versions

[rk has a vn]

Yippe for s1