code 22 but iv replaced the tps
this is how the story goes...a while ago (couple of weeks) i checked my ecu (paper clip method) for problems and i got code 22 so i cleaned my tps and tryed it again still code 22 so i replaced it and now im still getting code 22 so i changed my ecu still code 22 so could the problem be that its the wiring not the sensor... and my car allso has a high idel about 1500- 2000 could that also be related to the sensor because i adjusted the base idel screw and didnt change it so i went to the wreckers got a new tb and put it on still high idel or could it just be that my gasket could be bugged because i took the elbow off a when i first got the car to change the thermostat so could air just be leaking in some were??
cable to tight? if not sure try disconnecting the accel & cruise cable from the tb and see if it idles, if it drops to where it should adjust them so they have some slack at closed throttle position.
If not i'd be checking for vac leaks, if the tb is closed it shouldn't idle high, air is obviously getting in somewhere that the ecu can't account for, spray some crc/wd around the gasket of the tb and elbow or use some engine oil, if the rpm drops as the fluid runs into a gap there's your culprit, if not check all hoses at both ends of them for perishing/holes carbon canister/map/brake booster/crank case vent pipes/vent control line/vac res behind bumper/fuel pressure reg hose...
The iac controls the idle so the tb butterfly should be closed and the iac will open/close to control the idle rpm......
If the cable is to tight it'll hold the butterfly open....... if the ecu thinks the tps is closed yet it see's the engine running at 1500-2000 it'll try to close the iac and get no response then it'll put it together and throw an error cause it expects tps @ 0% to equal an engine speed of about 750rpm which it'll control give or take a few rpm by the iac depending on engine temp/park neutral/in gear....
Now adjusting the screw is a bad idea, it's set for a reason and blocked off with a cap. I hope you paid attention to where it was set and took note of how many turns you made either in or out.
The iac is a stepper motor (goes in/out in steps) the ecu is told that to idle it should be at XX amount of steps, moving that screw and closing the butterfly to far means the ecu has to compensate with more steps out of it's preset range and can throw an error, it'll go to it's preset and see the engine rpm drops to far and open more to compensate, thinking the tps is out of whack as it's learnt that it thinks where it is now is supposedly 0%.
If the butterfly is open to far as yours sound like or there's a vac leak the ecu will close the iac fully to 0 and see it has no effect on the idle rpm and throw an error.
Once again it thinks where the tps is now is 0%, with the engine running at a high rpm it figures the tps is wrong.
By adjusting that screw you can also cause these problems and to set it correctly can be an utter pain in the a without the right equipment, it's not like a carby where it's quick and simple.
The ecu calibrates the tps position when the engine is doing approx 2000 rpm for 1 min or there abouts, either when you start the car and hold it there or when you drive off down the road and sit at a speed that equates to that, if it see's the resistance of a closed tps and that rpm it figures there's something wrong and spits out an error.
Also can you close the tb by hand from the engine bay and drop the rpm? if it's sticking open and you can do this spray some crc/wd/inox in and around the spring and top of the tb moving parts, with the engine off open and close it by hand a few time's to try free it up.
Last edited by Jxw; 05-11-2011 at 09:35 PM.
iv tryed closing the tb from the engine bay and tryed loosining the throttle cable so i think its a leak... i still dont understand what the problem is with the code 22 even after i changed it im still getting the error
Sounds silly but did you reset your ecu after putting the new throttle body on to clear codes?
yeah sure did then i started it up i thought it was all goot about 20 seconds later engine light poped up (c*nt of a thing)
grab a multimeter, unplug the ecu and check the pins in the ecu plug to the tps and make sure you get a reading... just looking at the schematic the tps has is joined to the map sensor on 1 wire and the temp sens on another.
some quick reading off mine... (cold engine hasn't been started today)
temp sens, pins C10 & D2: 2.3K ohm (this reading will change depending on the temp of the engine from approx 6K ohm 0 degrees to 110 ohm 100 degrees c)
TPS pins D2 & C13: 2.2K ohm idle 7.1K ohm full throttle
pins C13 & C14: 8.45K ohm idle 3.62K ohm full throttle
was not comfortable but i held the probes into the wiring loom plugs while leaning over from the drivers seat and pressed the accell and watched the reading change
may sound silly but maybe another sensor is shot and the ecu hasn't figured it out and it's messing up the tps reading? bad connections, broken wires? measure those pins and see if something shows up and that the ecu is at least getting some input from the tps
Last edited by Jxw; 06-11-2011 at 06:16 PM.
might have to do that when i get some time and some fuel 2 start the car haha also could the high idel be caused by air jetting in around my injectors because i noticed the other day when i was cleaning my engine bay that some of my injectors turn and wobble around i might by some o rings and put them on it wouldnt hurt
i'd sort the high idle out first and see if the tps error comes back when it's idling normally, if the error comes back then i'd investigate that part further.
from one of your resent posts i thought you had the idle sorted.
any air leaks anywhere on the intake manifold will cause a high idle, yes the injector seals if they leak will allow air in, is there any fuel stains around the injectors? they will move around slightly if you try to move them.....
as previously suggested get a can of wd 40/crc anything will do (i wouldn't use degreaser or anything that flammable), with the engine running spray around 1 part at a time if you can't spray the bottom run your finger around it to smear the area, the tb gasket, then the elbow gaskets, 1 injector at a time, even between the intake manifold and the head to see if it's that gasket........ if the idle drops as the gap is filled by what ever you are spraying on it till it all gets sucked in and then leaks air again, you've found your leak, replace suspect gasket/seal and see how it goes from there, if that doesn't show anything remove 1 vac pipe at a time and put your finger over the hole to see if that makes a difference, brake booster? pull that big hose off and plug the hole with your finger as well to see if it changes it's behavior
Last edited by Jxw; 08-11-2011 at 11:31 PM.
well i got around to fixing my high idel reset my ecu and the high idel was gone after about 5 mins of ideling but the engine light is still on i checked the hoses for leaks there all fine so i dont have a clue what it is and it really starting to piss me off.... stupid vn
well i sused the problem out further i still get the code 22 but i replace the injector seals they wernt leaking but i replaced them any way and i pulled the tb apart and put it back together it doesnt idel high anymore but could the code 22 be causing the revs to drop from about 700-800 down to 200-300 when i put it in gear this problem is really starting to shit me there is no air leaks or bad connetions iv cheked all of them... CAN SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP
I bet you lost that plastic cap that goes on the throttle shaft. Will cause TPS error 100% of the time.
exactly! there is a little rectangular black plastic coupling cap that goes on the end of the shaft and then the tps goes over the top of it.
It couple the shaft and the sensor together nice and snug. without it the tps sits in the 0 deg position and the output voltage is 0V. with the cap on the sensor is
rotated a few degrees so that the starting point has some voltage around 1.5 v ish?.
They almost always drop off when taking the tps off. I have to happen to me once. found in on the floor the next day, put it back in with the new sensor and problem was fixed.
not all throttle bodies have that plastic bit, i've got 1 or 2 here that the shaft goes straight into the tps
well thats my problem i guess shows how dopey i am haha
i got a tb off a mate that hasnt been pulled apart so it still had the plastic cap. i cleaned it put it in and no more code 22 about f*#cking time haha. thanks a heapOriginally Posted by Vlad01
Last edited by vn1989; 10-12-2011 at 03:28 PM.
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