vn v6 rear main seal series one part number needed ACL BRAND

[pittao shane]

I’m new to this an am currently converting my Chevy luv to a manual vn v6 series 1 engine but am having trouble finding the right rear engine oil seal any help pleas with a correct part number as parts suppliers suck at this work.

[Pub247]

HN022 or HN022R for rubber version first one is rope rear main acl part numbers. Theres also HNO22VN these all should be sutiable

[pittao shane]

HN022 ok I didn’t fit it because it had printed on the pack v8 and when I lined them up they were too long are you meant to cut them down or something also on the rear crank bearing cap on both sides there are channels that run up and down is there a gasket for that too.

[wortus]

There is no such thing as a Series 1 VN, the engines changed a lot during production, your probably goingot have to match the seal at a bearing place or go to Holden. The old one doesn't have any ident numberson it by any chance?

[pittao shane]

Well here’s the thing I’ve just moved from SA to VIC and before I left I brought a vp sedan with what I was told was a re built motor and a t5 manual. So I got a used engine and auto for $150 off a friend that I knew was running and put that in it and sold it for $1200, not bad right. It was a t5 manual but the motor was also re built but check this out iv just finished stripping it down because I really didn’t trust the guy. 1 head was not tight at all and the head face was filthy but had brand new head gaskets, 1 lifter was sized and turned itself in to a solid lifter so that needs to be replaced because the little piston in it is stuck at the bottom the front oil seal was badly worn, there was NO REAR OIL SEAL 3 pistons were put in the wrong way no1 crank cap was loose most external bolts were loose as all hell and piston ring and oil ring gaps were almost perfectly lined up with each other and a few stem seals were split in two and three.

[Pub247]

There is no such thing as a Series 1 VN, the engines changed a lot during production, your probably goingot have to match the seal at a bearing place or go to Holden. The old one doesn't have any ident numberson it by any chance?

Yes there is technically youre right theres no model called a series 1 but its always been reffered to it that way Even major manufacturers and reconditioner refer to it as series 1. S1 motors are different in many ways easiest way to tell series one motor is thermostat housing on back of manifold not at front 6 bolt crank instead of 8 bolt also the cam thrust retaining plate is part of the cam not a seperate part like later models there are many more indentifing features.

Also what would a bearing place know about a rear main on engine?

There was only 3 main changes s1 motor s11 vn-vp motor and the later VR motor all essentially the same motor but with revisions.

Shane if you had the rope seal yes you cut off the excess. the rubber 2 piece seal is te better option in my opinion though some people swear by rope seals. Those channels are meant to have rubber "plugs" which you add sealant to aswell.

Lucky you didnt run that motor would have fallen apart from spinning the starter. I suggest you buy a full gasket kit that will come with everything needed as it sounds like you'll have to replace everything anyway

[pittao shane]

sweet now i can get to work it was hot today and i love building in the cool of the night. this one has had a s2 intake put on it. i cant put that back on yet i need to get a lifter but i can do the rest of the motor tonight. is there anything that needs to be done to the block or heads to use this s2 intake the engine was never runn in thank god it would have cought fire or something stupid just like the last person who built it.

[wortus]

Yes there is technically youre right theres no model called a series 1 but its always been reffered to it that way Even major manufacturers and reconditioner refer to it as series 1. S1 motors are different in many ways easiest way to tell series one motor is thermostat housing on back of manifold not at front 6 bolt crank instead of 8 bolt also the cam thrust retaining plate is part of the cam not a seperate part like later models there are many more indentifing features.

Also what would a bearing place know about a rear main on engine?

There was only 3 main changes s1 motor s11 vn-vp motor and the later VR motor all essentially the same motor but with revisions.

There's no series 1 so a bit more than "technically correct" IMO. Going to a bearing place was just a thought, most bearing places I have gone to in the past to buy bearings also sell oil seals.

[Pub247]

Sigh why talk about shit you obviously know nothing about? what do you want to refer the S1 motor too?
Vn V6 3.8lt motor 6/88- 30/11/90 note the 6 bolt crank ??

Come on its done this way to make things easier for people all you doing is causing confusion about shit that needs to be plain and simple so he gets it right.

Yes bearing joints sell bearing and seals but they dont for engine internals they wouldnt even sell main or big end bearings for and engine.

[pittao shane]

so where can i find the tension specs for the crank and conrods

[Jxw]

repco, bursons should all list and have the 2 piece seal, the grooves you mentioned on the bearing cap sides is just cleaned and filled with sensor safe sealant/permatex etc, no gasket as such even from factory, same for the small groove where the timing cover meets the block before the pan gasket is put on, also in where the rubber seals meets the intake gaskets on the top end.

get a gregorys/max ellery manual, great investment...

88-90 engine specs 25531617/25522646 block castings (NOT ev6(25532674) specs they're different)


i'd use some thread locker on some of the smaller bolts listed, don't really want things like the pickup & sump working lose and falling off.
another personal preference, i put a thin layer of sealant on the sump gasket, don't over do it, you don't want it all squishing out, not everyone likes to do that but i'd rather have no oil leaks.
make sure the head gaskets are on the right way also, depending on the brand follow the instructions for the arrow if marked as it does face to the back of the engine sometimes, not the front as you'd logically think, if put on wrong the water jacket holes that are different sizes can restrict the flow wrong and you can end up in strife.
were the headbolts torque to yield and need to be replaced in the 88-91 engines i forget?

[wortus]

I'd also suggest using sme thread locker/sealant on the large water pump bolts as they go into the water jacket. You have to prevent the coolant getting past the threads. I had to remove a water pump on mine and the shafts of these bolts and the hole in the waterpump and timing case had corroded which made them fairly hard to remove.

[wortus]

Sigh why talk about shit you obviously know nothing about? what do you want to refer the S1 motor too?
Vn V6 3.8lt motor 6/88- 30/11/90 note the 6 bolt crank ??

Come on its done this way to make things easier for people all you doing is causing confusion about shit that needs to be plain and simple so he gets it right.

Yes bearing joints sell bearing and seals but they dont for engine internals they wouldnt even sell main or big end bearings for and engine.

I think the purpose of this forum is to respond to the OP's questions and not sling critisism at those who respond like your doing. I happen to know quite a lot thankyou very much. You can call the VN engines what you like. I was merely pointing out fact as going into a shop and asking for a part for something that does not exist may be confusing. I think you'll also find there were a number of internal changes to these motors before the thermostat was moved (when the VP Engine went in the VN) such as the rocker gear for example. Why don't you keep your opinions on my level of intelligence to yourself and stick to the purpose of the forum?

[Pub247]

How about u go get ####ed I'm actually helping him by providing correct Information and part no. All your doing is not picking and not providing any help whatsoever this is why I stop helping people on here u get shot down more than being a smartarse. FYI thermostat was moved forward on s2 vn not vp.

To OP i suggest u ignore wurtos n listen to me and jxw. Use an approved sealant on all bolts that got water like genuine Holden sealant or a certain grade of loctite I forget which one. Don't forget the head opts need sealant too.

Judging by dodgy work dOne I suggest you check clearances too

[wortus]

To the OP Thread locker/sealant is the same thing as Loctite. The workshop manual gives the correct type from memory. You need to make sure the threads are dry otherwise it may not seal properly.
To Pub247 If you think I am nit picking then that's your perogative I don't care for your opinion and I'd suggest your doing a bit of shooting down yourself as your the one who accused me of talking shit then got abusive. I stated fact which is there is no official series in a VN and to get the right part go to Holden with the VIN (or engine number) and you go off. This is not you personal abuse forum and everyone is entitled to post. IMO resorting to abuse is a sign of some sort of personality defect. Oh and learn how to spell.

[Jxw]

sealant i was refering to earlier was permatex/silicon.
I called loctite, thread locker so as to avoid confusion.

alot of changes in the engine from 88-95, without the r&d we wouldn't have the alloytec.....

it was unofficially dubbed the s1 engine in aus, as mentioned even by parts companies and mechanics, i've never had anyone have trouble understanding what i meant when i used that term to buy parts in the past (the americans called the buick 3800 a s1, ecotec s2)


unofficial story on the roots of the 3.8 and what changes were made if interested.
Rebuilding the 3.8L Buick Engine: Engine Builder

[Pub247]

I think the purpose of this forum is to respond to the OP's questions and not sling critisism at those who respond like your doing. I happen to know quite a lot thankyou very much. You can call the VN engines what you like. I was merely pointing out fact as going into a shop and asking for a part for something that does not exist may be confusing. I think you'll also find there were a number of internal changes to these motors before the thermostat was moved (when the VP Engine went in the VN) such as the rocker gear for example. Why don't you keep your opinions on my level of intelligence to yourself and stick to the purpose of the forum?

LOL i answered the OP question in my first post. Your first post you sling criticism at me for calling it a series one. You also never answered the op original question. You told him to go to a bearing joint or holden (probably the 2 worst places to go) with a seal that he doesnt even have...
I mention there were many changes between the 3 "main" revisions. I listed a few but not all and mentioned they were many more. The things i listed were easy way to "indentify" the difference between a S1 and S2 motors. All the changes were made by the S2 VN-VP when the thermostat was moved. please tell how they put a VP "motor" in a vn when the "vp" wasnt even built for another 2 years??

You sound much like a hypocrite...

To the OP Thread locker/sealant is the same thing as Loctite. The workshop manual gives the correct type from memory. You need to make sure the threads are dry otherwise it may not seal properly.
To Pub247 If you think I am nit picking then that's your perogative I don't care for your opinion and I'd suggest your doing a bit of shooting down yourself as your the one who accused me of talking shit then got abusive. I stated fact which is there is no official series in a VN and to get the right part go to Holden with the VIN (or engine number) and you go off. This is not you personal abuse forum and everyone is entitled to post. IMO resorting to abuse is a sign of some sort of personality defect. Oh and learn how to spell.

Threadlocker and a sealant are 2 totally different compounds and they are not the same thing as loctite. Considering there are 100's of different types of loctite. For clarification any bolts that go through to water you need to use an approved sealant such as GM Sealer or Loctite 567 which is a high temp solvent resistant "sealant" not a threadlocker as a such a threadlocker product will not seal against water and ruin your torque settings (mainly reffering to head bolts).

Yes you stated a "fact" that there is no "offical" series 1 vn but you never said to get a vin or engine number and go to holden until this post. I never abused you at first i just told you to stop talking shit which is what you were doing. Not till you acted like an arsehole i told you to #### off as your not being helpful just a hinderance.

As for my spelling i was using my iphone to post so theres my excuse yours is not perfect however if you look through your posts so stop being a arse

I have built many of these motors and worked at an Engine recondiioner for 3 years my knowledge is based in experience.


Shane i missed were you said it has a S2 manifold what heads does it have? S1 heads wont work with a S2 manifold without mods due to the PCV system being different. AS Jxw said you can fill those "slots" with silicone an acl full gasket kit does come with rubber plugs to use though

[wortus]

LOL i answered the OP question in my first post. Your first post you sling criticism at me for calling it a series one. You also never answered the op original question. You told him to go to a bearing joint or holden (probably the 2 worst places to go) with a seal that he doesnt even have...
I mention there were many changes between the 3 "main" revisions. I listed a few but not all and mentioned they were many more. The things i listed were easy way to "indentify" the difference between a S1 and S2 motors. All the changes were made by the S2 VN-VP when the thermostat was moved. please tell how they put a VP "motor" in a vn when the "vp" wasnt even built for another 2 years??

You sound much like a hypocrite...



Threadlocker and a sealant are 2 totally different compounds and they are not the same thing as loctite. Considering there are 100's of different types of loctite. For clarification any bolts that go through to water you need to use an approved sealant such as GM Sealer or Loctite 567 which is a high temp solvent resistant "sealant" not a threadlocker as a such a threadlocker product will not seal against water and ruin your torque settings (mainly reffering to head bolts).

Yes you stated a "fact" that there is no "offical" series 1 vn but you never said to get a vin or engine number and go to holden until this post. I never abused you at first i just told you to stop talking shit which is what you were doing. Not till you acted like an arsehole i told you to #### off as your not being helpful just a hinderance.

As for my spelling i was using my iphone to post so theres my excuse yours is not perfect however if you look through your posts so stop being a arse

I have built many of these motors and worked at an Engine recondiioner for 3 years my knowledge is based in experience.


Shane i missed were you said it has a S2 manifold what heads does it have? S1 heads wont work with a S2 manifold without mods due to the PCV system being different. AS Jxw said you can fill those "slots" with silicone an acl full gasket kit does come with rubber plugs to use though

If you read the posts I merely stated there was no such thing as a series 1 or 2 in a VN and that was before you even mentioned series 1 or 2 so I am perplexed by your claim I was the first one to abuse you mate. Your the one who got abusive first. I think you really need to get over this mate and I am not going to bother reading this post anymore and replying to your nonsense. Loctite/threadlocker who cares, the aim was to mention that something of the sort is needed not to say exactly which one. Oh and your the one who called it a VN-VP motor in the first instance if you care to read what you wrote. Man it must be a tough gig always being right?