Does anyone have a detailed guide on changing a vp k-frame.
Like where i jack the engine up. How i place the block of wood underneath to stop the weight etc..
Thanks
Your probably best not jacking up the engine.Your best get an engine crane although it's easier to find someone with an engine crane it probably won't give you much room under the car as the legs get it the way.
One of these is best SUPER CONDOR - 500KG.
Jack the car up and support it with jack stands on the front jacking points. Then once that's sorted it's a matter of unbolting your control arms, radius rods and 4 bolts for the frame. Then drop the frame and replace with a new one. Not very detailed I know but not that much to be done just takes time.
hmmm so you're saying if i use 2 jack stands to support the car. all i need is a engine hoist or something along those lines and im all ready to go?
see, i know how to remove the control arms and radius ros as i have already done that in the past. and i'm fairly sure i have the right tools to unbolt the old k frame.
might not be as hard as i'm thinking...
i'll have to jack my car up in the driveway and work on it for a few afternoons or something.
won't be something i can knock over in a few hours haha
thanks for the help mate.
okay so where about's should i jack the car up from? and in which spots should i place the 2 jack stands....
If you are using the jack that came with the car just jack it up at the two tubular jacking points and place a stand under each side. If you don't have an original jack just jack it up under the K frame, a trolley jack is best if using this method and then place the jack stands under the front lifting points where you would normally jack the car up.
Bent k frame and castor rod bushing are stuffed. Do i need to jack the engine up at all? Or do i just need the jack under it for support?
What if i cant get one?
okay so my idea is to jack up the car and support it on either side using 2 jack stands in total.
then i'll jack up the engine after loosening the motor mounts. i'll have the engine supported by 2 more jack stands and block of wood.
then i just bolt off and bolt on the new k-frame yeah?
ideally you want to support the struts also with something under them taking the load once the lca, tierod, castor rod and sway bar are undone, it's not a good idea to leave all the weight hanging off the bearing plate at the top (alternatively remove them completely but this is just more work)
If using the jack method on the engine and not a crane/block n tackle, you won't want the supports/jack/stands in positions that will hinder the removal of the kframe
if you can find someone with one of these to borrow if you can't get a block n tackle/crane
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html (link as a guide only it's a US site was the first link that came up showing a good pic)
Last edited by Jxw; 29-01-2012 at 03:16 PM.
Was gonna buy this prolift 1350kg trolly jack which i think is hydrolic qnd is only $29.99
And then 2 pin style axel stands which are 1200kg and only $29.99 at repco
Do u think this will be enough? Or do i get another set of axel stands to suppport the engines weight. I mean it should do the trick but yeah not 100% sure
Thoughts?..
also guys, do i jack up from the front points or do i have to jack the rear up as well.
i have everything planned to my best i think.
gonna jack the car up from the k frame. then i'll support the car via both jacking points at the front. then i'll have a piece of 4x4 or 4x2 foam timber or even just standard timber along with the trolley jack to help dissipate the weight of the engine while the k frame is unbolted and the new one is bolted. might even change the bushes on all the castor rods, lca's etc...
main problem is. do i have to unbolt any of the engine mounts from the top of the engine. or is it as simple as just supporting the engine while the k frame is dropped and the new one is bolted in place.
ohh also, do i need to align the new k frame when bolting on, or will it align itself. hopefully i get this knocked over on the weekend...
anyway i'll have a trolley jack and 4 sets of jack stands along with my new k frame.
seams easy to do. now i just have to do it. after all i love my vp s2 too much it let it go![]()
i wouldn't put the stands supporting the car at the jack points, as said put them under the chassis rails, only need to raise the front of the vehicle, chock the rear wheels with bricks or what ever you have.
make sure the engine is supported extremely well, remember there's 300+ kgs being supported and you're going to be under it, i'd never trust a trolly jack to support that without axle stands supporting most of it, preferably placed on the engine to trans/bell housing brace.
As mentioned something from the top as well, something strong sitting in the flat where the bolts are on the guards with some rags under it to protect the pain (wood may flex and break not the best idea) and tie diagonally across the engine lifting points (chain using heavy padlocks or an old seat belt, something strong) this is a backup incase something underneath fails, so doesn't have to take a lot of weight unless it has to.
losen the engine mounts from the block but don't undo them completely, this will help to line the bottom of them up when putting the new kframe in if you can move them.
new kframe should locate onto the chassis rails without to much hassle.
once the tierods are removed from the struts you should be able to unbolt the rack from the kframe (2 nuts/bolts) and move it back enough to clear without undoing p/steering lines or the steering joint.
Last edited by Jxw; 30-01-2012 at 01:18 PM.
yeah good idea.
hoping this guy removes the k frame by tomorrow so i can start the change over.
perhaps i could get a chain and a piece of hardwood above the hood of the car holding the engine up as extra support yeah?
anyway axel stands will be supporting it via the trans mount and the front of the pan. hopefully it should be okay
Okay so the guy i am gettin the k frame from told me his got it off.except he needs to unbolt the engine mounts. His losy his 15mm socket haha. anyway he said it only took him 20mins as the steering rack and lca's were already out. So yeah i asked him he could swap it with my bent one. and he said he'd do it for $80 which aint bad, so i just took it over his place and hopefully i can pick it up tomorrow![]()