Level 3 cluster WTF??

[vpcomm92]

Hi,
Just installed my L3 cluster.
Lighting up so wrong:
Turn it over, the odometer disappears and no LCDs work
The Demister, cruise, brake fail, and RH indicator light up. Pressing Demister makes the RH indictor disappear. Pressing hazards makes cruise and RH indicator flash. Indicating does the same respectively
Tacho won't work
WTF...

[88GreenVN]

Did you use the wire diagram from the tripin thread? - all the gauges should work the same as for the L1 or L2 cluster. THe only change for the L3 in an Exec car is to move 3 wires on connector 1.

[Jxw]

what was the cluster you installed out of? comparing the back of it against your old one are the pin number and uses the same as your old one on the conn plugs

[vpcomm92]

Well there were differences on the connectors between my clusters
For example connector 8 was brake fail rather than check engine etc.
I tried desperately to change the pins around on the YB plugs but couldn't figure out how, so I did a dodgy and cut and bridged them using wire on the L3 PCB so they match right
Just disconnected the connector 3 pin 8 wire (press remote in my car) and now the Cruise and Demister arent on permanently. Brake fail and RH indicator still is
RH indicator is flashing when indicating right but if I turn on the Demister it brightens.
Indicating left makes CRS and Demister flash together dimmly.
Hmm

[88GreenVN]

you will need to remove 1 of the brake fail warning lamps too. The 2 brown white wires on connector 1 need to move left 1 slot each and I think the turn left light blue may need to move left 1 slot also. Look at the wire diagram on tripin for the VP - or email me for a copy.

[vpcomm92]

So remove the brake fail lamp? also, how the hell do I remove the pins? I got the yellow cOnnector out, and tried tugging No luck

I also rewired the L3 PCB so the differences between the L2 and L3 PCBs were fixed, so ATM they're identical

[88GreenVN]

The pins come out by pressing down from the top - there is a small keeper there.

[vpcomm92]

Removed the brake fail lamp
Here's my connector 1 plug inside the dash (YB plug not cluster)
1. Black
2. Lt blue
3. NA
4. Brown/White
5. Brown/White
6. NA

7. Brown/red
8. Pink/black
9. Black
10. NA
11. NA
12. Black/red

Here's what my cluster has for connector one (POST modification of tracks)

1. Rear dem
2. Cruise
3. Fog lights
4. Ground
5. Tacho ignition
6. Tacho signal
7. Bulb fail
8. Check engine
9. Brake fail
10. Pwr shift
11. LH ind
12. Ground

What should I shift to where And if anyone can help how do I move the pins between connector holes I can't get them out

[vpcomm92]

I've tried pressing and stabbing a small screwdriver in there countless times They won't budge

[Jxw]

put pressure on the wire and push the metal tab to the front of the connector, find the keeper and disable that with a small screwdriver, then pull the wire and plug out.

[vpcomm92]

Got them out Now need to know what those wire colours are for

[vpcomm92]

Moved light blue to LH ind and moved the two brown/whites across one each
Tacho still not working and indicators are clicking but won't light on dash
Distance to empty and install fuel and overdosed LCDs are now showing

Could someone clarify which colour wires go where?

[88GreenVN]

Here is the VP wire diagram I use

[vpcomm92]

For one that looks upside down
Before I moved anything around brown/whites were at c1 pin 4 and 5, I moved them to 5 and 6 still no tacho. moved them back still no tacho.
Both my L2 that worked and the L3 say tacho IGN ad tacho SIG at 5 and 6, the tacho worked on L2 when the wires were at 4 and 5... Pin 4 according to cluster is ground. So I put a black wirethere
I moved everything around, lt blue on 10 and ground on 12 and the indicators work fine now and now no weird lights I moved black/red to pin 1 rear demister.
The wiring diagrams just make my problems far worse, I've got it as far as I can now

But having brown/White wires (which I am still under the impression are tacho, which is ridiculous because they're identical and have no description of what each do > ) at pin 4 and 5 worked for my L2 (whichsaid 4 GND 5 tacho sig 6 tacho IGN) but not for L3, so I moved them across and still nothing on the L3!!! !!!

[vpcomm92]

Test drive:
All lights working as they should Excdpt for ones I cant test like engine oil battery etc
No speedo whatsoever No tacho either
Fuel gauge is sticky yet LCD says DTE 140 which is about right..

[88GreenVN]

The wire diagram is as if your sitting in the seat looking at the plugs. Trust me it's the correct way up. Brown white is not the tacho.

[vpcomm92]

Ah ok.
Do you know what each wire does? If I had a color schemes wiring diagram with the function of each wire it would make this so so much easier..

The tacho sounds easy to fix, the speedo not moving at all is making me think the things dead.

The reason I thought it was upside down is because it says the brown white get moved from 7-8 to 8-9. On the actual plug they're 4-5 and 5-6

looking at that wiring diagram compared to if im seated facing the plugs i swear its still upside down, the two brown/white wies are on the top of the plug in my car, in positions 4-5 tacho worked fine when i had an L2 and one of the brown whites was in tacho ign.

[vpcomm92]

Ok so it's all working now
Sorry guys was reading the wiring diagram backwards...

Two problems, some of the LCDs are missing number segments, not so much an issue
Other issue is the fuel gauge is reading lower than it has It's set to 60L And DTE says 90ks Yet fuel is almost empty?

[88GreenVN]

Ok so it's all working now
Sorry guys was reading the wiring diagram backwards...

Two problems, some of the LCDs are missing number segments, not so much an issue
Other issue is the fuel gauge is reading lower than it has It's set to 60L And DTE says 90ks Yet fuel is almost empty?

The DTE will take a little time to settle down and only re calcs every 2 mins. It will not change with small fills at the pump as this is stop the DTE swinging around wild going up n down hills.

[vpcomm92]

Explains why it started at 170km now is settled at 90-80
But the problem is my fuel gauge is actually sitting on empty, I know there's around a quarter in my tank but it stays literally a needle width above empty The highest it was was at the top of the 'E'
I resoldered the voltage regulator No dice.
Hmm

[88GreenVN]

I test cars with a sender unit out of the car (I have a spare) and plug it into the cars plug. Then swing the sender full range. Thsi will show if its the sender or the gauge.

[vpcomm92]

So if it is the fuel gauge then how do I fix it? Yesterday morning when the L2 was in the fuel read fine

Also, changeD my diffusers to blue, but in the process I've done something and now have lost some segments in my 2nd LCD How do I fix that?

[vpcomm92]

So if it is the fuel gauge then how do I fix it? Yesterday morning when the L2 was in the fuel read fine

Also, changeD my diffusers to blue, but in the process I've done something and now have lost some segments in my 2nd LCD How do I fix that?

[88GreenVN]

So if it is the fuel gauge then how do I fix it? Yesterday morning when the L2 was in the fuel read fine

Also, changeD my diffusers to blue, but in the process I've done something and now have lost some segments in my 2nd LCD How do I fix that?

There is a thread on how to fix level 3 trip computers ===>>> Fixing a Trip Computer

The gauge or voltage regulator may well be buggered.

[vpcomm92]

Put $10 in Went up a little

Cbf with the screen stuff I threw out the brittle plastic bits
I'll just buy a new cluster eventually, just won't change the diffusers this time Just chuck some blue LEds and hope for the best
Worked with the switchblocks and AC button