fiery red vn manual
putting manual in, (steps, pics)
hey guys, im putting a manual in my car, if u can post up some pics or steps on what too do thatd be great, i have a good idea and have enough mates and beer for the job but i think clutch will be the hardest bit.
so yeah pics or steps on it would be awsome, thanks
it's a piece of cake....Originally Posted by VN-88
nothing hard about the clutch.very easy to line up,put bellhousing on first though,iv'e known people to leave bellhousing on,there arms get tired and gearbox drops a little,with out them realising,damaging clutch/pressure plate.OR if you are doing engine transplant with it,put it in as a whole,gearbox and motor.
fiery red vn manual
ah ok, um i have a power chip gold in my 88 auto, cna i use that in my manual or should i take the ecu out of the spair car and just put my powerchip memcal in it.
and also, i have pace maker exaust, will i need a new y-peice ive been told there alittle different in shape is this true and how much would a new cost me?
will ther be anything else ill have to change?
vyma100
yeah you'll need a clutch/ brake assembly also. Or it will be kinda hard changine gears. this is a real bitch to put in but with a book or something to guide can be done easily. take out your drivers seat to make it easier, and your steering wheel just place a cap of the steering shaft so you don't impale yourself.
vyma100
you will need to either flush then block of the trans oil cooler lines running through the radiator or put a manual radiator in instead
fiery red vn manual
ok..l. now 1 thing i dont need a new brake assembly as its a manual clutch not hydrolic, as i said its serious 1, and ive taken the radiator out of the manual so im right there.
but i still need to know about the ecu and y peice of the exuast...
now im not saying this to be mean but please unless uve done this ur self or know some one who has, or ur a mechanic dont reply as ive posted these 2 questions before and had hundreds of different replys... so please if u know if the series 1 needs a new ecu or if i can use the old one with the my memcal please say so.
no you don't have to change the computer....use your chip,see what happens,it's just a myth about the ECU change over.
pedal box is easy,don't be put off by people saying it's a bitch,they are obviously not holding there mouth right
they also say there is a difference in the exhaust(auto-manual),depends how unlucky you are,but i haven't been caught out yet,extractors bolt straight back on.
fiery red vn manual
are ok, i just herd that the manual is abit wider then the auto, but ill find out once its done... after all there is no way to do some like the hard way... more funthey also say there is a difference in the exhaust(auto-manual),depends how unlucky you are,but i haven't been caught out yet,extractors bolt straight back on.
you don't have to take seat out
i was told the same thing on first manual changeover,i was told basically everything you was told,but half of it just isn't true,especially the ECU (standard) thats why i said just try your sports chip and see how it goes,but i can't see a problem with using it.
you do have to change over the metal plate that is pop riveted to the floor where the gear lever goes to transmission,obviously auto is different from manual
fiery red vn manual
ok well ive got everything down key now. but one little thing, maybe 2 but i cant member the other.
the auto shift, well thats not what it called, but i mean in autos it can only be started wen in park or neutral, is this thing in the auto or engine, how can it be taken out or (overwritten)
I changed my VN Series 1 from auto to manual. I was lucky and got everything from the wreck to do the conversion. Motor, gearbox, wiring loom, ECU, pedal box, clutch cable and y pipe.
Pedal box wasn't too bad..drop your steering column to make room and you may need to bore a hole in your firewall for the clutch cable..I used a die grinder. Brake pedal hooked up the same, connect up the clutch cable then bolt it in.
I fitted a new clutch then bolted gearbox to engine before dropping it in..much easier than fitting a gearbox from underneath.
If you didn't get the wiring loom with the eng/box, you will need the small piece of loom that goes from the main harness to the gearbox..this is the speedo sender and reverse lights loom, just unplug the auto one and plug in this one.
Yes, the plate around the hole where your stick comes out is a little different. 8 pop rivets, no dramas here, just make sure you get the rubber boots on right to stop noise and fumes coming up through your console.
When it came to exhaust I bought some extractors, bolted these on with engine out, then fitted y pipe (that I bought with ext.) and the rest of the pipe after engine was in.
I swapped the auto ECU for the manual one, although since I have heard this isn't necessary.
That was it..no major hassles..started first pop and going great ever since.
it unplugs from your main wiring harness under your console,just unplug it and put your manual loom in from your wreck...if you are fussy take handbrake lever out to get at the handbrake wire(handbrake light that illuminates on dash when handbrake is on....otherwise if you are carefule you can reach it with long nose pliers to gently pull wire off terminal.or just cut it and re join it to the manual loom(solder and heat shrink)
no need to bore holes in firewall for cable
fiery red vn manual
um u say about taking the hand brake off?? why do i have to take that wire of, and what wire do i attach it to???...if you are fussy take handbrake lever out to get at the handbrake wire(handbrake light that illuminates on dash when handbrake is on....otherwise if you are carefule you can reach it with long nose pliers to gently pull wire off terminal.or just cut it and re join it to the manual loom(solder and heat shrink)
also im having trouble getting the peddals off! got any photos of what i undo?
and finnaly how do i seperate the drive shaft from the manual box? or will it slide of and drop of wen i pull the engine and manual at the same time
?
i only stated that because a lot of people are fussy and don't like their wires cut and re-joined,you may be able to get it with long nose pliers,but most just cut and rejoin it to the loom,the handbrake warning light wire is the yellow one,you will see it,it comes off from your loom under console then passes down thru a little hole into your tunnel then back up into where the handbrake is bolted in.you find the yellow wire on the manual loom and rejoin it
you are taking the pedals out as a unit aren't you? there is 2 bolts on the firewall,1 visible ...next to or just below brake booster,the 2nd one is right behind booster,then under dash after lowering steering column,the frame(pedal box) for the brake and clutch pedal is held on by 3 bolts....one at back and 2 either side,when undone,just gently pull on pedal box and once away from anything,turn it on its side and gently wobble then turn it so that pedals are almost up in the dash and it should just nearly fall out.
driveshaft? i'm assuming you are talking about the tailshaft
you undo the 4 bolts at the diff end...then the 2 at centrebearing ....the ones that hold the centrebearing up to the floor pan,not the saddle ones,(the 2 outer ones ) 1 eitherside...holds the centrebearing to floor(body)
Sorry samuels but I have done this conversion in my own car, 8/88 series 1 and there was NO hole in the firewall for the clutch cable. I think maybe series 2 or VP onwards may have a had a hole in there from factory with a rubber plug in it..not sure but mine definitely did not.
fiery red vn manual
i am just unsure what loom was the manual one, the one under the car going to the gear box with an odd plug.. by the way i cant get that off yet. or the one infront of the gear stick yet under the centre console?i only stated that because a lot of people are fussy and don't like their wires cut and re-joined,you may be able to get it with long nose pliers,but most just cut and rejoin it to the loom,the handbrake warning light wire is the yellow one,you will see it,it comes off from your loom under console then passes down thru a little hole into your tunnel then back up into
and sorry mate but i looked in my auto and there is a hole but it seems theve run my alarm through that hole, so ill just have to make it bigger or alittle wider so i can fit 2 things in thereSorry samuels but I have done this conversion in my own car, 8/88 series 1 and there was NO hole in the firewall for the clutch cable. I think maybe series 2 or VP onwards may have a had a hole in there from factory with a rubber plug in it..not sure but mine definitely did not.
there is no need to bore a hole thru firewall
all cars are made exactly the same on the factory line,any holes unused are plugged up or plates sikaflexed on
[QUOTE=VN-88]i am just unsure what loom was the manual one, the one under the car going to the gear box with an odd plug.. by the way i cant get that off yet. or the one infront of the gear stick yet under the centre console?
sorry i haven't got any pics for you
you will need them both,they hook into the same loom,the one from the gearbox unplugs obviously from the gearbox,that runs back towards the gearstick,you should see rubber grommet where the wiring passes thru (on top of tunnel under console-front),it plugs into main wiring loom,in front of gear lever.you just take out the auto loom,and put in the manual loom,it will plug straight back into where the auto wiring went....
also...sorry i can't remember,i know i should read back,but you did say you had a VN 5 spd manual wreck didn't you?(complete car)
fiery red vn manual
yeah i have the complete wreck, i got the engine out today after alot of farting aorund (and manual tranny) got the tranny of the engine and noticed that what the thrust bearing pushes on is ****ed, so i need one of those and cltuch plate... how much would that cost me... also will i take the fly wheel of and put it on mine once i get my auto off???
also i dont need new bolts or anything do i? or the conversion plate, or is that only wen going from series 1 too series 2?
what you should really be doing is putting the motor and box into the car that the auto is coming out of...then theres no need for any adaptors
but thats entirely up to you....which has the lowest K's on the clock the manual or the auto?
the flywheel won't fit your auto motor unless you buy an adaptor which is ....when i was last quoted...$350.00.OR you can now buy a CRS flywheel which has been remanafactured to fit the auto cranks ...last quoted price $450.00. clutch kit you may be able to get one from about $180 +,but expect to pay up to $350.00 for complete clutch kit,anyone over your way that can rebond your clutch plate?(new material on your old plate if it's not bent or anything).
no you don't have to use new bolts(unless damaged)for the series one manuals.....
fiery red vn manual
nah auto engine has alot less k's and is in much better condition, i thought cause they were both series 1 u dont need an adaptor plate. ohwell guess ill have to order one... from the rod shop right?
ah looks like i wont be fitting the manual this week
take a look at this link....see what you think,ring them up and have a chat with them...i'm positive you have 2 choices...flywheel to suit auto(series 1) for manual.... or the adaptor.
link:
http://www.rodshop.com.au/gearboxes.htm
VN-88, I thought it was the series two engines that changed so that the manual and auto could be interchanged, the Series one's were different
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