manual in.. now the aftermath

[VN-88]

hey guys, ive finnished my manual change over my self. there are just a few things im not sure are right so if u no its normal just answer normal or if not how to fix it or even wat it is

1. my car wen doing 100 is at 2000rpm instead of around or under 1900rpm(auto)

2.i feel a vibration in my clutch wen i drop it down to 2nd gear at around 3000 rpm instead of using my brakes.

3. i havent noticed better fuel econemy yet either, maybe lost alittle

4. wen punching it to about 4 500 rpm it has lot of vibration.

5. wen just over 1000 rpm like at a light wen i pull up, before it goes under 1000 rpm it seems to have a hard and harsh vibration.

6. very last now, wen in reverse and im reversing, as soon as i through my clutch in but keep rolling it makes a sorta ticking noise or some clunking even.

p.s. i have driven the car for a week now to let it sort it self out but its still the same, also im using my auto whole ecu as samuels says its fine. it has a new clutch kit. including thrust bearing, so i think that should be it, hope u can help

[geta]

cruising rpm sounds about right. The auto has a lower final drive than manual, so the cruising rpm in a manual is slightly higher (meh).

and your clutch doesnt sound aligned properly. Although having said that, with my new clutch (exceedy) i get a bit of vibration going from 3rd to 2nd, havnt had a chance to kick my mechanic in the balls yet, but overall im not impressed with it at all, my factory one was heaps better.

-dave

[dodgy]

Same with exeedy clutch!
Wait for the thrust bearing noise is very evident also.

Check engine mounts, bellhousing is secure, spigot bush, something is out of balance, did you use a CRS flywheel?

[VN_Luke]

could be unbalanced flywheel causing vibrationny fun.

[VN_Luke]

p.s.

computer should be fine i kept swapping the auto/manual ecu in mine and i couldn't notice a difference?!

[dodgy]

could be unbalanced flywheel causing vibrationny fun.

That's where I was going

How about trying another Harmonic Balancer?

[VN-88]

ok, i used the origanal fly wheel with a rodshop adaptor plate, my clutch was lined up prety damn straight cause my trany slided in fine, engine mounts seem fine, maybe im making something out of nothing, i tend to do that alot, i was just wandering if u guys get any vibration at all? and is 500 to a tank any good, its about the same as the auto

[defa]

when i put my manual in i had a huge difference in fuel. but i swapped from a series 2 auto to series 1 manual.. as for teh vibration.. that doesn't sound too good to me... if it is in different gears i don't think it would be the clutch. it could be in the gearbox. it should really vibrate in all gears if it is something outside the gearbox. i would be looking at something inside. i don't know if you have ever seen inside a T5. but 1st gear is usually sharp on an older box. nearly sharp enough to cut your finder.
i know this will open up a can of worms. but the T5's aren't as strong as some people say. i am not saying they are weak at all. but that they do wear out..

[samuels]

hey guys, ive finnished my manual change over my self. there are just a few things im not sure are right so if u no its normal just answer normal or if not how to fix it or even wat it is

1. my car wen doing 100 is at 2000rpm instead of around or under 1900rpm(auto)

2.i feel a vibration in my clutch wen i drop it down to 2nd gear at around 3000 rpm instead of using my brakes.

3. i havent noticed better fuel econemy yet either, maybe lost alittle

4. wen punching it to about 4 500 rpm it has lot of vibration.

5. wen just over 1000 rpm like at a light wen i pull up, before it goes under 1000 rpm it seems to have a hard and harsh vibration.

6. very last now, wen in reverse and im reversing, as soon as i through my clutch in but keep rolling it makes a sorta ticking noise or some clunking even.

p.s. i have driven the car for a week now to let it sort it self out but its still the same, also im using my auto whole ecu as samuels says its fine. it has a new clutch kit. including thrust bearing, so i think that should be it, hope u can help

1..what gear are you in?
2..are your unis in good nick?
3..you will i guarantee it,you may need to do some fine tuning,plugs,leads,etc
4..did you mark tailshaft to diff flange before removing,if you didn't,i'd say thats your problem,you have put it out 180 degrees...
5..once again uni joints/centrebearing
6..once again uni joints,did you grease throwout race?
ECU is fine..there is no difference

[VN-88]

1..what gear are you in?
2..are your unis in good nick?
3..you will i guarantee it,you may need to do some fine tuning,plugs,leads,etc
4..did you mark tailshaft to diff flange before removing,if you didn't,i'd say thats your problem,you have put it out 180 degrees...
5..once again uni joints/centrebearing
6..once again uni joints,did you grease throwout race?
ECU is fine..there is no difference

thanks samuels, this is the type of answer i was looking for.
1. 5th gear
2. the unis seem fine to me but i havent had much practice with em.
3. how will i do fine tuning, its all new plugs and leads
4. no i didnt mark the diff, how will i no for sure if its right?
5. " "
6. did i grease what now were lol???

[samuels]

thanks samuels, this is the type of answer i was looking for.
1. 5th gear
2. the unis seem fine to me but i havent had much practice with em.
3. how will i do fine tuning, its all new plugs and leads
4. no i didnt mark the diff, how will i no for sure if its right?
5. " "
6. did i grease what now were lol???

1...MMM yeah acceptable,although i haven't taken much notice,i was thinking along the line of 1500 RPM @ 100 Kp/h
2..to check unis take the weight off the back wheels(jack the rear up,and carstands ) see if there is side to side movement and up and down movement,just hold the uni joint either side(holding diff flange)twisting motion with hands then up and down..you will know if the unis are buggered the movement will be enough to tell you,as there is minimal movement with a good uni.
3..OK...air cleaner clean?
4..mark tail shaft,unbolt it and turn it around until the next set of holes line up,(obviously the mark you will make won't line up,it's just a reference point)bolt it back together,see if that gets rid of any vibration.
5..
6..throw out race,the bearing for the clutch,you lightly grease the inner of it,and a little on the sides,also a light smear over theinput shaft cover,just to make sure also did you grease spigot bearing,where mainshaft goes into back of engine,it's a small circular brass sleeve.

[VN-88]

for number 6 i didnt grease anything... is that really bad, is there an easy way to do it?

[samuels]

for number 6 i didnt grease anything... is that really bad, is there an easy way to do it?

no not bad,these days they come pre greased,if it wasn't filmed with grease you would hear a noise from that area when clutch is pushed in,the noise is a kind of whirring noise,sorry i have to ask this,did you put clutch plate in the right way? also did you take the protective coating off the flywheel if it was new?
by not removing the protective coating from a new flywheel,can cause shuddering(clutch shudder as it is called)
sorry i just ducked back and re read your post,your original flywheel was that in good nick,no burn marks(bluish tinges) on the face of it,no major cracks? iv'e never used the adaptor,does it go on one way,any chance it can be put on back to front?

[VN-88]

i dont think i can hear any bad noises, is it a loud noise, and well i think i got the clutch the right way, there was nothing telling me the right way i just put it so it fitted nicer then the other side, yeah i took the protective coating of the new clutch casing and the old flywheel was fine.

the adaptor only went on one way so thats fine.

and like i said, maybe i making something out of nothing, but it just seems to make my whole car shudder wen reving it up, even in neutral, like if i rev it up to 4000, the car shudders

[samuels]

i dont think i can hear any bad noises, is it a loud noise, and well i think i got the clutch the right way, there was nothing telling me the right way i just put it so it fitted nicer then the other side, yeah i took the protective coating of the new clutch casing and the old flywheel was fine.

the adaptor only went on one way so thats fine.

and like i said, maybe i making something out of nothing, but it just seems to make my whole car shudder wen reving it up, even in neutral, like if i rev it up to 4000, the car shudders

the clutch plate has a whats called a hub on it,with a protrusion (the diameter of your input shaft)that has to be facing the pressure plate,if it's not,it can cause all sorts of things,most likely,not being able to select gears when motor is idling,but i have heard of clutch plates being put in the wrong way causing shuddering,as for throw out bearing noise it can get loud.
another thing,have you got extractors? i haven't got round to fixing mine,but i have a slight shudder,and i have put it down to the exhaust pipe that bolts up to the extractors,hitting hard on the bottom of the gearbox,picking up the twist from the motor and box when speeding up or backing off.

[VN-88]

ok well i only have the auto exaust on and yes i do have pace makers.. and im sure the clutch is fine

[samuels]

ok well i only have the auto exaust on and yes i do have pace makers.. and im sure the clutch is fine

yeah no theres no difference between auto and manual extractors,even though they say there is,theres not,next time your under the car,just take a peek and see if your pipe is hitting hard against gearbox.

[VN-88]

i thought there was a difference, manual ones run both pipes down the left side of the manual just after the bel housing but autos go further up before going side by side, as the auto has a sump

[samuels]

i thought there was a difference, manual ones run both pipes down the left side of the manual just after the bel housing but autos go further up before going side by side, as the auto has a sump

nah no difference..unless it's been custom made

[dodgy]

thinking out loud, is the clutch releasing fully?
also
"also did you take the protective coating off the flywheel if it was new?"

[geta]

1...MMM yeah acceptable,although i haven't taken much notice,i was thinking along the line of 1500 RPM @ 100 Kp/h

lol, nah, the auto have a lower final drive, so the auto does lower rpm at speed. Besides 5th in a v6 is a gear for 90kph+, anything below that (and about 1750 rpm) and the engine struggles badly.

-dave

[samuels]

lol, nah, the auto have a lower final drive, so the auto does lower rpm at speed. Besides 5th in a v6 is a gear for 90kph+, anything below that (and about 1750 rpm) and the engine struggles badly.

-dave

sorry 80KPH ,mines a manual conversion and i have no problems at 1500RPM @100 KM/PH

[geta]

sorry 80KPH ,mines a manual conversion and i have no problems at 1500RPM @100 KM/PH

1500rpm @ 80 i assume ... i always leave it in forth till 90ish, but yer, either way i guess, my car doesnt like 80kph in fifth, itll do it, but not nicely like 4th.

-dave

[samuels]

1500rpm @ 80 i assume ... i always leave it in forth till 90ish, but yer, either way i guess, my car doesnt like 80kph in fifth, itll do it, but not nicely like 4th.

-dave

yeah it's preferential,but for best fuel economy on highway,best time to slip into 5th is 80K's.