buggered engine, oil every were

[VN-88]

hey guys, i got a mate who has a vn series 2 commy and it seems that his mechanic says that the seal at the end of the engine around the crank were the fly wheel bolts on(but still in engine) has gone, and apparently its a 2 peice seal and would take awhile to fix, does this sound right?

now another thing is, he wnats to buy my eninge in the shed buts its a manual s1 motor, and he has a auto s2 motor and a stage 3 shift auto, would my engine and his trany go together?

[Boonz]

yeh they should still go together... there was only small changes made to the top half of the engine not the box pattern on the back as it is still a turbo pattern

[samuels]

hey guys, i got a mate who has a vn series 2 commy and it seems that his mechanic says that the seal at the end of the engine around the crank were the fly wheel bolts on(but still in engine) has gone, and apparently its a 2 peice seal and would take awhile to fix, does this sound right?

now another thing is, he wnats to buy my eninge in the shed buts its a manual s1 motor, and he has a auto s2 motor and a stage 3 shift auto, would my engine and his trany go together?

no it won't....series1 is 6 bolt,series2 is 8 bolt,both auto and manual
sorry... tranny will fit but he will have to get 6 bolt flex plate if he's using your manual motor

[VN-88]

tranny will fit but he will have to get 6 bolt flex plate if he's using your manual motor

thanks samuels, i thought that, but why is there always some one who gives in incorrect answer, i mean i was almost 100% sure but had to check, how much is a flex plate?

[hakhawk]

it would take a bit of messin round, im no mechanic, but after stripping down my new motor, and asking dad lots of questions, youd have to unbolt the auto, remove sump, unbolt crank? not sure on that one, and change seal, if its done incar, lots of hours, out of car, piss easy. i think

[samuels]

thanks samuels, i thought that, but why is there always some one who gives in incorrect answer, i mean i was almost 100% sure but had to check, how much is a flex plate?

good second hand one 50-$90
new anything up to $250+

[samuels]

it would take a bit of messin round, im no mechanic, but after stripping down my new motor, and asking dad lots of questions, youd have to unbolt the auto, remove sump, unbolt crank? not sure on that one, and change seal, if its done incar, lots of hours, out of car, piss easy. i think

easier to just take it out of motor then you dont end up with a sore back
split box from motor take sump off,unbolt your rods,drop crank,replace seal,installation is the reversal with attention to ...ensure seal is fully home ,new sump gasket...and of course OIL..

[mouce]

Bloody expensive to replace the rear main seal if you pay for a workshop to do it. I've been quoted up to $900 for them to do mine. At the moment though it's not dead yet, just leaks a bit.

Thicker oil slowed my one down, but it's going to need to be done sometime.

There really isn't an easy way to do it.

[VN-88]

yeah he has a mechanic doing it... id pull the eninge out and strip it for him, but really i dont no if i can be ****ed. engine are an easy thing to tinker with and strip, but if i **** it.. well i odnt wana thats all, and after doing my tranny i dont think i wana pull the engine out

[ScottB_33]

The series two engine is a much better engine than the series one with changes to both plenum chamber and idle quality. The series two engine is basically the same as VP but in a VN body which is why they are great buying if you can find a good one. The rear main seal on the VN is not that hard to fix if you have the right tools. A specialist tool called a "Sneeky Pete" is available from Repco and tools stores and it enables you to pull the rear main oil seal out while the engine is still in the car. Yes you still have to drop the exhaust/starter/tranny inspection cover/crossmember and then the sump but hey these normally all leak anyway at this age so fix whatever needs to be done while its all out!! Then its just a matter to loosen the crank allowing it to drop down a little then remove the old seal and feed the new one into the slot. The hardest part is getting the seal to sit correctly and secured around the crank. Mechanics charge so much because of warranty with this system as there still is the possibility of leaks and how would you like to do all this work again for free under warranty???? If all goes well then yes the motor will not leak and you will be a happy camper. If I was doing the job I would much rather do the rear main seal than pull the engine out which may also leak down the track even more!! If you came to my shop that is what I would recommend.

[mouce]

Yeah, but if you're going to all the hassle of pulling the engine out of the car to do it, it's a good excuse to do a little bit more work on the engine while it's out

And let's face it, dropping the tranny and the sump and all that, you might as well yank the engine anyway, that just makes it that much nicer working on it, unless you've got a car hoist at home.

[samuels]

The series two engine is a much better engine than the series one with changes to both plenum chamber and idle quality. The series two engine is basically the same as VP but in a VN body which is why they are great buying if you can find a good one. The rear main seal on the VN is not that hard to fix if you have the right tools. A specialist tool called a "Sneeky Pete" is available from Repco and tools stores and it enables you to pull the rear main oil seal out while the engine is still in the car. Yes you still have to drop the exhaust/starter/tranny inspection cover/crossmember and then the sump but hey these normally all leak anyway at this age so fix whatever needs to be done while its all out!! Then its just a matter to loosen the crank allowing it to drop down a little then remove the old seal and feed the new one into the slot. The hardest part is getting the seal to sit correctly and secured around the crank. Mechanics charge so much because of warranty with this system as there still is the possibility of leaks and how would you like to do all this work again for free under warranty???? If all goes well then yes the motor will not leak and you will be a happy camper. If I was doing the job I would much rather do the rear main seal than pull the engine out which may also leak down the track even more!! If you came to my shop that is what I would recommend.

well i certainly wouldn't reccomend that to my customers,it's a cheat way out with no guarantees...i would rather take motor out and do it properely...a day and it's done,your way is far more time consuming...my opinion any rate