battery or altanator
gday guys just after some feedback on how to test my alternator to see if its workin. i went to turn my key over and the motor cliked ova the paused for a sec then kiked ova then startted ciicking as if the battery had no power. it could poosibly be the battery but im guessing it not getting charged therefore the altonator could b the problem
hey, if theres 1 thing i know bout cars...its electrical!!!
My left nut says its the alternator, go out n get a new 1, probly 200bucks,
if ya get it recoiled itll only last probly 12mnths n cost not much less, bout 140bucks...good luck, hope this helps!
Physics Geek
Why do they last such a short time if you get it rewound? I would have thought that a re-wind and a new set of brushes and it's all good.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
well if you can get it started (jump start) take it to an auto joint (super cheap, autobarn..etc.)...and get em to do a battery and alternator for you.Originally Posted by vnbelina
from what you have just described....it sounds like battery,loose terminal(s)or battery has reached it's service life..does your charge light come on? i should say did it come on,when driving,if not i'd say alternator is OK...
not sure about the light. i no the battery is about 1 yr old (thats how long ive had the car for) i no time i have been installling my stero i have let it has died a few times due to leaving the door open and stero on for a length of time and have had to jump statr it
just jump start it and check with a multimeter, should be charging between 13-14.5v make sure you put lots of load on it like turn all the lights on and the heater fan and the wipers and stereo etc. if its not charging at around 14v i suggest a new regulator and brushes.
i have a multimeter but where to i attach the negative and positive terminal tto and what settign to i put the multimeter on to
have the multimeter set to dc. its the one with the solid line and dashed line above it. then just connect it to your battery. doesn't really matter which way you put the leads on. might give you a negative reading if they're the wrong way round.
Like was done yonks ago applies today, clean both battery terminals "well" some sandpaper to clean the terminals back to clean lead, a simple light coating in good old vasso and your good to go.
Checking the alternator is pretty simple 'if your enging does start by whatever method, grab a multimeter and test what's going into your battery, 13.5 - 14 volts should show a good alternator.
Keep em connected and turn it off, battery on a "good one" is usually about 12.5 V, any less usually means for a number of reasons it's not holding a charge due to a collapsed cell, short of 'distilled water', incorrect acid level, or dirty terminals are just a few reasons, whatever you do Never use tap water or bore water in a wet battery, it won't last long.
The better closed cell batteries are the go, it may pay to check for white crap anywhere on the terminals, this can mean your battery is overfilled or is boiling which happens more with a car used at night a lot, the white powder is sulphuric acid and will kill your best clothes when washed next so don't wipe your hands on your best jeans after handling a car battery.
The acid will burn your skin and if you have a small scratch it will sting but good, water, and lots of it, is the only way to dilute the acid, one may guess to NOT EVER let it splash into your eyes, or as some have found when after touching a battery" then releiving themself" on the nearest tree, they will find a burning sensation on your "private bits" that's most unpleasant to say the least, water again may fix it, but you may also find nasty chemical burns, ouch.
These days your going well if a battery lasts 5 years, but is maintained well you could be lucky to get more out of it, ir your recomended battery is say a 250 CCA, get a 350 CCA "if is fits", that's Cold Cranking Amps BTW or essentially the starting power/ability of the battery.
Bring all coalition troops home from Iraq before Christmas, and stop the senseless killing.
cheers guys for the info very helpful
i like your sig.....how true this is,30 years in the trade and still learning,,,as the old saying goes "everyone dies ignorant"...
sorry off track,but it reminds me of certain people in the JC forums
Typing in the dark really makes for some bad spelling, on all occasions.
My apologies, but the basics are there so who cares, all I have to do now is find the light switch ?
Bring all coalition troops home from Iraq before Christmas, and stop the senseless killing.
clang CLANG
u put a better battery in this morning and tested it it had a vlotage level of about 12.5. then i turned it and put it underload an tested it again the voltage was about 14.3 indicating that the battery is chanrging. i tested the old batery whch wasnt conected andit had a votage reading of 12.5v so they both seem to be fine. dose this mean a cell is droped or i think proably is just low on distiled water.
If a cell has collapsed you would be likely to not have 12.5 V and also be able to see the plates clagged together with crap, just compare the new one, but remember that voltage does not mean CCA power to crank the engine, it can have voltage to run the radio etc, but no real power in that case it's lived it's life.
Bung the old one on a good charger and see if it comes good and it's OK with specific gravity, "acid content" in solution just to make sure it was not just dirty connections, but keep the new one in the car, just in case.
But having bought a new one, it's really just an experiment, as once they die bury them at the scrap yard, most councils take them off ya hands and sell em in bulk for recycling.
Checking levels ain't hard as is checking specific gravity, top up as needed and charge it up, one is always handy to have at home for many reasons.
Bring all coalition troops home from Iraq before Christmas, and stop the senseless killing.
The Mad Proffessor
checking a battery with a multimeter only tells half the story. if you get a good reading(anything over 11.5v) then try putting some load on it even if it is only an old spotlight or something and see how much the voltage drops. also be careful with the cheap digital multimeters as they can be wildly inaccurate.
If something's worth doing, it's worth overdoing!
cheers guys i put the near battery on and it starts i still dont like however they way it starts very sluggichs (ch--ch-ch-ch start) i want it to be more stronger cause it sound like it dosent want to start is thi caused by the started motor.
A new battery and still having start dramas kinda means you have other problems there, a good car should spin over pretty darn quick on a new battery.
Describe the ch - ch - ch ?
Plugs, coils, injectors and a dozen other things, remember to take your wallet.
Bring all coalition troops home from Iraq before Christmas, and stop the senseless killing.
your local HSV dealer
hehe well mine is doing wat you say it will ch ch ch ch for about 15 secs then broom i got a new battery new bosch fuel pump filter and fuel lines tested alternator tested injectors and found out its the bloody oil pickup it wont start in the mornings cause the the oil isnt pumping so when u get in it turn it over and if the oil light is on and it dint start keep turing till the oil light goes off and if she starts after the oil light goes out its something to do with oil pump or oil pickup
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