(tried searching topic - no go)
What is the quickest & easiest way to remove 3.8 litre out from VN?
Both Auto & Engine are stuffed did 430,000 kms on the clock and have engine & automatic transmission waiting to go in.
Is it possible to remove engine with automatic trans still attached?
I have engine crane to do the job, but haven't done with 3.8 litres from VN, only Subaru Liberty, Holden Camiras & Toyota Corolla.
Cheers
AP
yes you can take motor and box out at the same time, remove bonnet and it can be done
yeah take both out, quick guide,
park it somnewhere good and remove bonnet
disconnet everything from the motor, i.e fuel heater air con pipes(be careful ewith the gasses) intake pipes, evryhting including the loom( unplug from computer and unclip at firewall, then take it off the gaurd and lay iot on the motor, just basically get the motor standing alone.
remove fan and shroud, Drain radiator and unclip in two places it should just slide out. you'll marvell at how myuch roopm you have it front of the engine. unbolt exaust pipes at the first flange using a long extension from under the car, make sure you disconnect map sensor hose and all the jazz. remove throttle cable plate from throttlew body and lay it to one side of the engine bay, drain engine oil and powr steering fluid and drain your oil pan on the auto, (i,.e take pan off the auto) using a 19mm spanner and and socket take your rack off the chassis and let it hang. now for the auto. first things first on the diff their are 4 bolts, from tail shaft to diff, they are an absoulute bitch to unbolt and will take you a while, but unbolt them. and let tail shaft drop. the the center bearing, their are two bolts holding the bracket on unbolt them and you should be able to slide the tail shaft yolk out of the tranny, beware oil will come out. now support the tranny with a jack and unbolt crossmember (tranny Xmember) and watch out as when i did this the thing drop quiite harshly. but beofre you do that unclip speed sensor and their is another clip. pluyg you need top take off the linkage, remove it from tranny and let it hang, then unbolt crossmember. now get your crane and atch to engine at two points (factory lifting points, the black brackets should still be there) and take a bit of weight off the chassis, but dont puill the engine up too far. now, their are 4 19mm bolts holding the engine mounts to the chassis, unbolt them and you should have a hanging engine, now yo need a mate for this next part. take the engine up a bit higher so it's hanging freely, and move it foward a bit, (this is how i did it) get your mate to strand on the tranny so the front of the engine is pointing in the air and jack and move foward as yo go, you need to remove it on quite a hard angle so the auto will clear the firewall. then out she comes and wella,
i probally missed a few things but you'll find trhem along the way, it's not that ahrd of a job, should takew you a few days, also, if you want to sell the intake manifold to me for 20 or so bucks i would be more thatn happy to oblidge.
hope that helps
if you need anymore help pm me
its just as easy to drop the k frame out with the engine & trans on it.
unplug the engine harnesses & drape over the engine, undo hoses etc, calipers off, drop the whole shebang out the bottom,(lift the car up over it) & slide it out on a jack.
Rob
Will do. Thank you guys, now has given me a clearer picture and knowing what kind of equipment i require.
From what I can tell, to do the swap will be a day's worth with a mate's help.
Cheers
AP
Even if only the engine required replacement, it is easier to pull engine and trans together - the auto. cooler pipes are a bitch to negotiate an engine around, at least without bending them and removing the beaming brace and trans to engine bolts is more work than tailshaft and shift linkage.
It isn't necessary to undo the A/C hoses - you can undo the bolts holding the compressor from the engine block with the engine lifted part out of the car. The top front most one will require a very thin (ring) spanner to access. Grind a cheap spanner to fit.
The radiator and fan can be removed as an assembly.
Undo the high pressure power steering hose at the rack, the shift linkage from the shaft into the 'box - 17mm nut.
The engine mounts can be difficult to get back into the holes. The trick is to rest the studs on the K frame and use a screwdriver or bar to twist/pull each stud into the holes in the K frame in turn.
With air tools and experience, solo, 50 mins will have the engine/trans on the floor, about another 90mins to have back in and running, so a day with two inexperienced but focused people would be about right.
Thanks guys, already started planning to do the swap next weekend - weather permitting!
Cheers
AP
Its also quite illegal and the fine is very hefty to release the gas from the a/c compressor into the atmosphere without having a liscenced installer to remove the gas first. Best idea is to remove the comressor with the hoses intact and move it away from the engine.
Engine removed went well today, took me 4 hours to do it. Had no problems following the steps of what CSL said above.
Broke the grinded ring spanner while doing the air con, so used normal spanner to undo it. Apart from that I was very happy with the progress, not bad for backyard mechanic with a crane! (not engine host heheh)
Next job is commodore s's engine removeal... *sigh* but its halfway now.
Cheers and thanks
AP
And whos gonna no? Its not as if the cops will be there in his backyard noting down every single thing he is doing....