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Thread: Towing a trailer advice...

  1. #1
    CLE
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    Default Towing a trailer advice...

    Hey,

    In a couple of weeks I'm going to be towing a trailer because I'm helping someone move house. The trailer's a caged one and I'm guessing that when fully laden (with furniture and stuff like that - not too heavy), it should be around 800kg, highly unlikely for it to be anymore than 1 tonne. Towbar is rated at 1250kg odd, will check properly later on (it's too dark at the moment).

    I've had quite a bit of experience towing trailers and the like, but I want more info on how my car should be treated.

    My car is a VP Berlina LX V6 auto, has just been serviced, transmission serviced about 4 months ago so mechanically the car's perfectly OK.

    I've been told that the trip will take about 2.5 hours, with some slow, uphill bendy road conditions. Bearing this in mind, should I have a transmission cooler fitted and maybe for the power steering too? How much will this cost? Maybe it wouldn't be worth it because I'm only towing for 2.5 hours.....but if it's relatively inexpensive it would be good because I will tow in the future.

    I'll be driving it in White 'D' (ie. not overdrive) as I've read to do. It will be heaps better for my car anyway going up and down heaps of hills.

    My car has the stock rims/tyres - 205/65 R15, tyres are comfortably roadworthy. I try to keep my tyre pressures all round at 34 PSI, as recommended. Should I perhaps bump this up to 36 or 38 for towing?

    I think that's all I need to say for the moment, no doubt I'll think of something else.

    Oh and I will have tools with me in case the car breaks down, unlikely though

    I live in Melbourne and will be driving up to near Cooma/Jindabyne - southern country NSW, not that far from Canberra for those who aren't aware (with no trailer and not much in the car), then borrowing the trailer from there and filling it up, then driving for about 2.5 hours to the coast. I'm not towing the trailer back to where I'll be getting it from (someone else is going to do that for me), then I'll be driving home.

    Thanks!!!!!!!

    Please feel free to ask any questions!!!

  2. #2
    Boonz's Avatar
    Boonz is offline the holden mechanic
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    trans coolers cost about $70 and is about an hour job, jus pull of the bumper, drill four holes and mount it on the radiator supports, run the hoses from the old tank to the new cooler, block off the old connections and refill your trans with about a litre of trans fluid and your ready for a drive

  3. #3
    CLE
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    Quote Originally Posted by boona15
    trans coolers cost about $70 and is about an hour job, jus pull of the bumper, drill four holes and mount it on the radiator supports, run the hoses from the old tank to the new cooler, block off the old connections and refill your trans with about a litre of trans fluid and your ready for a drive
    Say I didn't want to risk stuffing it up, how much would it cost to get someone else to fit it?

    Thanks.

  4. #4
    Boonz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLE
    Say I didn't want to risk stuffing it up, how much would it cost to get someone else to fit it?

    Thanks.
    could pay a 10 year old $5 ....its that easy no joke

    would cost about $200 total maybe... could be more could be less thats just a rough estimate

  5. #5
    CLE
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  6. #6
    Boonz's Avatar
    Boonz is offline the holden mechanic
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    repco, autobarn, motor traders...... anywhere basically just make sure it has an ADR stamp on it and you will be fine

  7. #7
    Boonz's Avatar
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    or better still try a wreckers for one off a wreck and get is cheap as dirt and all ready to go

  8. #8
    CLE
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  9. #9
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    A trans cooler is a good idea and as stated its not hard to fit. I got a large factory one from the wreckers for $30, some new trans hose from super cheap $8, took off the front bar cover. (VS) The holes were there from the factory to bolt up the brackets.
    Its best to run from the radiator first, as this will take out some heat, then to the cooler and back to the box.
    Use the gear box to slow you up on long down hill runs and do the same going up hills. Depending on how steep they are, going back to 2nd would be ok. Just watch you speed when shifting down.
    This will save you on fuel, harsh shift's and brakes.
    I always go into 4th on long flat runs (tow a car trailer a fair bit)
    Just take it easy on the car and it should be sweet.

  10. #10
    CLE
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    Thanks for that.

    Yeah, I thought it would be best when travelling at a constant 100km/h to put it into overdrive.

    Thanks again everyone. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble installing one

    I might go down to pick-a-part now and see if I can find one.

  11. #11
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    with the weight you envisage towing you will be fine, i tow 1600kgs of hillclimb car and trailer with my VP wagon and apart from a cooler and uprated rear springs i have a Hayman Reese 2100kg reciever and a H/R load distribution hitch to level the load.But you wont need suchthings with 800kg if its loaded correctly. if it seems ok at 34psi i wouldnt go higher but you could go to 36 if it seems to need it. Happy towing!
    Regards Kev

  12. #12
    Hairy Eater's Avatar
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    you wont need power steering cooling but my VX has factory steering cooling.... its just a piece of steel pipe thats 1 meter long total length.... its U shaped, lies flat across in front of the bottom of the radiator... you should get one fitted later.... saves power steering pumps... And check how close the exhaust is near to the tail shaft.... on VX GMH makes a towing kit... part of it is a heat shield that stops the tail shaft center bearing geting too hot... dont know if VN has one....

  13. #13
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    ive got a standard VT2 Berlina
    and i occasionally tow a 6x4 trailer with trailbikes
    what sort of point do u get to where u need a transmission cooler for towing

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