I'm running out of ideas and want another .1-.2 seconds off my 0-60mph time (for free or almost free), perhaps just wait for Winter?
edit: I just thought of something :P but I have to kill the pipe on my ex pod filter, say goodbye mr pod, ah no it's not long enough : (
Go on the Biggest Loser,Originally Posted by greenfoam
Get rid of a few kilos, cry on national TV , blame your problems on your parents, do a bit of exercise , cry some more, do a challenge, yes! cry again.
Instant increase![]()
my suggestion yesterday was a good one..... do ya a trade greenfoam???
LMAO!
But sometimes i have to wonder... how much does the weight of the driver change times? Would running with a near empty tank improve times? How about gettin rid of all the crap lying around in your car?
Weight of driver, well I'm always going to be a big guy :P Although I could stand to lose a bit.. but that's for another thread.
Driving a CURSED WH V6.
mattman, it makes a big difference in a VN/P, 50 extra kilos really takes the edge of them. I only weigh 58kgs though so I'm allready at race spec weight. Fred allready knows I'm skinny, hes just being smart :P, Boona but you want your engine back later!: ) where's the fun in that
Ah well.. i'm lookin at a VS Calais L67 but yeah would still make a fair difference i guess... don't expect i'll ever weigh less than around 100kg though. (probably 120+ right now)
Driving a CURSED WH V6.
Dewd, you makin' me feel like a fatarse weighin' in at a Buff 80kg'sOriginally Posted by greenfoam
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I had always thought that with Mr. Bray.....
Yeah it won't make as much difference in a more powerfull car, a gen III wouldn't care less if you weighed 200 kilos :POriginally Posted by mattman
haha yeah genIII is a bit beyond me at the moment :P Plus I do really like the VS...
L67 has plans for 200fwkw though... about $2000 in bolts ons over about a year or two (yeah i have no money :P) and all shall be good.. and then i shall be happy![]()
Driving a CURSED WH V6.
No offence to the larger framed persons out there. Just having a bit of fun, my wife loves that loser show, and I can't help but laugh every time they have a cry and a sook.
I know you already empty as much weight as you can from your car Greenfoam, what about a good oil, lower viscosity oils that don't cause as much friction , would give you a little bit more HP , or rob less at least.
lol no stress mate... all in good humour![]()
Driving a CURSED WH V6.
Makes you wonder how much power to weight has to do with it.
Everyone reckons because the VN/P is so light thats why they are so responsive.
Now if greenfoam was a jockey on a 1 horsepower horse he'd be a heavyweight. But say a 10 kg less jockey could gain a little bit more speed say 1 sec. What difference would an extra 10 kg make to a 100 HP ?
The ratios are a lot higher.
I know when I,m carrying 120 kg of feed in the back of the VN it goes like a dream , faster times, no wheelspin.
And why do I carry 120 kg of feed in the back? You never know where your next meal is coming from
BTW Greenfoam 89 to go. Hope you don't mind surprises when everyone from JC turn up on your doostep for the party.
Hrm yeah, I'm not running mobil one in the V8 because too many people think it's no good but I'm running a semi synthetic 10W-40 at the moment, I bought a LSD off ebay from a VT, It better fit in the VP but I'm not sure! I don't even know if it's the little diff or the super 6/gen III one but I'm taking a chance that it wont break either way, that will let me run my full spec tune and take off stalled up pretty good. I could pull the cast headers off and attack them with the die grinder to try and get some anti reversion going on, on the bottom of the zoorst ports but I'm not sure it would be worth my trouble. I'd like a picture of the inlet and outlet on a stock cat converter to see what's the go with that, because I've read you can do some grinding on thoseOriginally Posted by Frd_thmsn
Yeah but in your example the weight is over the drive wheels forcing better road grip... if you've just got a fatass driver (like me :P) It's a little different..
But really... in a VN/VP, 13kg is 1% weight difference..... 1% faster times... and when it's all about .1s differences, yeah you could see it. If i got in greeny's car, being about 60kg heavier.. yeah it would run slower times.
Driving a CURSED WH V6.
Shhh I'm calculating : )Originally Posted by Frd_thmsn
Ok you loose about .25 of a second for every 50 kilos in the car, so full tank and a 100 kg guy against me what never has a full tank and weighs 58 kg. May as well give up right now![]()
There you go then! Revert to a 6month old child, and you'll have a 5.7s 0-60!
Driving a CURSED WH V6.
*goes to buy some really big RC servos and a blow up doll*
Dr Bob should be able to supply half of that shopping list right Bob?
Mmmmm ever watched mythbusters? They've done exactly that (ok, maybe without the blowup doll) on a couple of occasions.
Driving a CURSED WH V6.
Here's a good temporary increase idea.
Make up an insulated air box bigger than the current one.
Pack this with dry ice, this should last a few hours at least.Make sure you pack around the air intake and don't allow the dry ice to get into the airflow, this would defeat what we want as dry ice is carbon dioxide.
I know from reading that you want to get the air as dense as possible so supercooling the intake air to say 5 deg C would give an increase of around 3 -4 % HP over an ambient of say 20 deg C.
They reckon that every 5 deg C ~ reduction in air temp is good for ~1% HP and torque increase
(as cited from http://www.musclecarclub.com/library/tech/intake.shtml)
So if you're after some quick gains until Winter this may work.
Also Bob I,m interested in one of those dollies too![]()
hrm Fred, I might buy a couple of those laser temp probes and pull them apart so I can run the read outs into the car and point them at a couple of prime locations and see if I can't get some better cooling going on
I think charge temperature and density is the way to go. I know they have great success with dry ice intercoolers , giving up to 100% power gains over normal air cooled ones.In EVO,s that are putting out 177 rwhp @5,000 rpmOriginally Posted by greenfoam
this increases to 370 rwhp@5,000 rpm just by using dry ice intercooler.Note this wasn't the maximum HP, this was the figure I picked that had the highest gain.At 7,000 rpm the same car was putting out 500 rwhp , this increased to 535 rwhp with dry ice intercooling.
References
http://www.are.com.au/Big%20HP/Dry%2...%20cooling.htm
Maybe a home made intercooler , using a couple of old motor bike engine barrels , as they are aluminium and are finned and this enclosed in a box that contains dry ice, or ordinary ice and water.
I'd be interested to know how warm the plastic intake pipe is on the commodores during running. Insulating it might help too.
So I reckon the cheapest dollar/power improvement is in the intake area.
Well then i'm in deap shitOriginally Posted by greenfoam
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Originally Posted by Yoda
If the area where you are driving isn't too bad you could pull out your air filter. It should give you that .1-.2 seconds off your 0-60mph time that you so desperately want.
kilowatts are like drugs, the more you get, the more you want.
Nah, airfilters do nothing, I've allready experimented there. I actually run a 10$ paper one but there's a K&N in the boot just incase I need the extra .0000000000000001 of a second![]()