Brake pad changing

[paddyj]

Just wondering, do many people change their own brake pads?

Is it better just to leave this up to the professionals?

Paddy

[wazza 42]

Paddy
I found in my 16yrs as a brake mechanic working for my family business of 26yrs that alot of people think its easy to change brakes.When dealing with older cars you have to look at calipers binding and needing over hauling,the right pad material for the vehicle and your driving habits,disc thickness etc.Generally it also costs more in the long run if a mechanic 1st has to fix a lob done wrong or replace a broken part because an owner didnt know what they were doing.Also spare parts retailers just sell the parts if you have a problem.Dont know where you live to possibly recommend someone.Can advise do your research,ask repairer about pad wear and temperature rating they wish to fit.
Hope this helps

[Hairy Eater]

i'm yet to see any mechanic tell anyone to try and fix themself..... mechanics dont wanna miss out on any money.... and i've SEEN myself and heard from others just how good some so called mechanics really are.....

[paddyj]

Thanks,
I'm living in Sydney, Leichhardt. I actually need to get someone the look over my whole front end, quite a few problems there.

1. When braking lightly the car shudders/shakes

2. When braking heavily the front right grinds like metal on metal, sounds like there is no pad left at all on there

3. When making a left turn at more than 20Km/h I hear one clunk/thud from the right wheel, like something is poping into place, bearing maybe?

About 6 months ago I got the two front pads changed and rotors machined, I don't drive the car much and don't brake hard so I don't think the pads could have worn down that quickly? I also put two new tyres on the front and got a wheel allignment done but that didn't seem to help.

Paddy

[ultimate_vn]

with that clunk when turning left sounds like a broken sway bar link i had the same problem on my left hand side got one from wreckers and fixed it in about 15 minutes

[paddyj]

Interesting I'll have a look at that. I also noticed I'm missing a steering boot, are they just for protection, do I need to replace it urgently?

Paddy

[sik sv]

$50 from autobarn or similar will get you a new set of nolathane link pins a much better option than standard they bolt on to the control arm instead of the strut steering is noticably more precise, it would be a good idea to replace that steering boot while you're under there. the shudder if it is most noticable in the pedal will most likely be a warped brake rotor they will need machining, and as for changing brake pads there aren't many jobs easier, get yourself a repair manual or a knowlegable friend.

[vpdood]

changing brake pads.
first of all buy the right pads...i belivce the front ones are bigger than the back ones??
jack wheel up and remove.
get under bonnet and remove resovior lid and use a siringe to extract at least 2 thirds of the fluid out of there.
go back to brake calliper and remove bolts holding calliper to the car(theres 2)
brake pads simply pop out.
find urself a clamp or something and use it to push the ram back in to the calliper.(this is why u remove fluid from resivoir, cause it would most likely over flow at this point if u did not do it.
when putting in new pads the metal clip should click in once it does slide it back into the grooves(u'll c wot i mean)
**NOte** make sure metal clips dont fall through the bottem of calliper.
then slide back on disc...bolt it on...replace fluid from resevoir with new fluid and put lid back on...pump brake pedal a few times...put wheel back on and ur done.

its alot easier then it sounds but if ur not confident take it to a mechanic to do.

hope this helps dood

[paddyj]

Cheers that helps, I used to change the pads on my old motorbike, exact same procedure.

Took the car to a mechanic to get looked at, seems like the discs are warped and they are too thin to get machined again so looks like I'll be replacing them.

He also told me what he thinks the clunk is when turning, I'm not sure what all the bits are called so I'll just post a picture. He reckons A is hitting B because the rubbers (circled in red) are perished and falling apart, are these the nolathane link pins link pins you are talking about sik sv?

He quoted 100 bucks to change the rubbers, 120 bucks to replace discs and pads + parts. Is this resonable?

Paddy

[3800VH]

thoes rubbers are a pain in the ass so take out and i think you have to change the other rubbers on the bar at the same time. the kit is worth $50-$60 so its not to bad

[wazza 42]

Paddy
When you get the correct pads its not the size of the pad but the temperture rating and friction rating to worry about.Cheap pads generally dont meet ADRs(Aust. Design Rules).Also asbestos pads have a low temp. rating so if you use them going down a mountain they smell and give brake fade very early.Also they tell you changing pads is easy but they didnt mention overhauling the calipers and greasing the slide pins or checking for bent slide pins.Not doing these could cause brake drag (premature wear of pads and increased fuel consumption).The fluid leaves as sludge in the caliper if not chaged approx. 12mths so when you push the piston back in the sludge is forced around the caliper piston stopping it from retracting when you take your foot of the pedal.You are in sydney and you could have a talk to Mike Lowe at Brakepro Parramatta.They maybe able to help by overhauling calipers etc if you remove ,may save you some money.
hope this helps