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Thread: Guide to: superhcharger setup (simular to CRS)

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    missus (in more ways than one)

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    Post Guide to: superhcharger setup (simular to CRS)

    WARNING: i take no responsability for any damage you do to yourself or your car as a result of using this guide, it is a meant as a guide only so just remember, everything is AT YOUR OWN RISK, if you dont have the mechanical applitude to do this then dont do it
    CRS sell these kit's for $1995 and they are damn good kits, but i wanted to do my own and thought i would share it with you.

    (i will be constantly updating this thread with pictures and so on, so stay tuned)

    (mods: please dont move this to the how to section as i reckon it'll be better off in here for the vn/vp people, thank you)

    ok, ive been meaning to get around to doing this for a while seeing as their is so much interest in these chargers.

    Just to clear things up, from what ive seen CRS get thier Pipes sand Casted in ally, and on the outlet pipe they get lobes cast, and from their they run a bracket off the supercharger onto the earth strap plate, therefore you cannot get dimensions or use these dimensions.

    Second, for the setup i'm going to describe to are gunna need access to or know somone with access to (and the skills to use em) a centre lathe, a verticle mill, and a mig and tig welder. I;m sure you can get a genral engineering work shop some of this for you.

    I thouhgt up most of this setup myself and i am still building it, and this thread should get me some inspiration to finish it, if you find that you have a better or more structually sound way of doing things please let me know and i'll change the post so this guide is the best it can be for future reference. (for the record i am an apprentice fitter and turner with a very understanding boss)

    ok
    The blower in question is an SC14 roots type blower, (found on old supra's i beleive(1gtte engine)) they have a clutch on them very simular to an air con clutch, and when turned off the vacumn of the engine free wheels them so air can get in as per normal. they come off a 2lt engine but are proven for a bit of punch for the 3.8's. You can obtain one from alot of japanese wreckers or ebay for about 300-400 of your hard earned dollers. watch out you dont buy an sc12 charger by mistake (very simular) as they are much smaller


    i'll get a better photo up soon

    Now when you get your supercharger you will notice their are only 4 grooves in the pully and your belt has 5, you need to take off the clutch and take off the pully, and using the lathe, turn another grove into the meatiest bit of the pully. You can hold the pully with the outside of the jaws on the inside of the pully (i can do this for people at a minimum of cost(pm me for details), wack it back on and you have a 5 groove pully.

    (Photo coming soon)

    If you take a look into your engine bay you will notice your coil pack right smack back in the way of where the charger is to go. I moved mine down where the cruise control usually sits.(good air flow too) (i'm sure you could mount the coilpack up on the guard or whatever, but i found this to to be the best place), (you need to remove your aircon pipes to mount it where i have, also make sure you take your car to an aircon place to drain the gas before touching any of the pipes). To do this you will need to get longer, custom ignition leads. I found a place in queensland that does them called "Queensland Ignition Leads" i emailed the bloke and described what i wanted and how long and i got them, (9mm, Blue, high temp, spiral core $80 + $10 postage) best people to deal with i highly recommend em. Once you get those you need to extend 6 wires in the loom so it can reach. Unwrap your loom and you'll find the 6 wires coming from the battery side (disconnect the battery first). Now make sure you get some wire that is bigger but not to much bigger than the origninal wire ( i think i counted 7 strands of wire in the factory wiring,, thats a small wire) now cut 6 peices about 200mm long (check the distance) and twist, solder, tape, and conduit the bastards so they reach the plug and their ya have it

    Where is the coil pack????


    There it is, notice the air box above it for the position and the taped extended loom


    bloddy good leads for the price,


    loom extension 1


    loom extension 2


    Where i mounted the cruise control after i had moved the coil pack





    so now onto the brackets, the first bracket i'm going to go into is the one ontop of the charger. it comes off those lobes and onto the bracket underneith the injector rail.

    (i'm gunna leave it there for now as i have to put a vernier to the brackets ive made as to get some measurements to descibe how to make them. so stay tuned i'mm update tomoorow with photo's.)
    Last edited by CSL; 21-04-2006 at 04:56 PM.

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    be sure to use the correct bushes in the mount with correct clearances, otherwise you will pull the housing into the rotors. Thats just one of the problems youll run into. Good luck!

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    been waiting for one of these threads for a while.
    so many people wanna make their own kits but dont know where to start (ME).

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    missus (in more ways than one)

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    yeah cheers i blown, the charger i had already had the bushes in th lobes, and when i made my bracket bars, they squeezed into the lobes as to not pull them together, cheers mate

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    just a couple of questions to clarify. with the wiring are u saying there is six wires that attach to the coilpak and u simply extend these wires by adding more so that is can reach to yor new position.

    also what is a clutch and whith the aircon do u have to remove the pipe(ie no longer any aircon

    cheers

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    their are about 11 or 12 wires that go into the coil pack. only 6 come from the battery side so you need to extend those , the other ones just peel back.

    the clutch means you can turn the charger on and off at your discresion. and where i have mounted the coilpack, i needed to remove the hose from the condensor to the actual air con, and from the air con to the accumulator, nbut MAKE SURE you get someone qualifyed to drain your hgas as that shits spossed to be deadly

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    how much power do these supercharges give the engine and do you need to modify the engine or computer in anyway or its goes alright with it stock? my jap wreack has a kit im pretty sure its the sc14 its around 800 bucks

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    Got my charger today. Have most the parts apart from the supercharger brackets themselves.

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    how much did it all set you back cause i'm probally guinna sell my half built kit becuase i need insurance bad

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    I got supercharger without any piping, high pressure fuel regulator, bov, intercooler, instructions, modified alternator bracket, tensioner pulley, 6psi pulley for about $700.
    Just need to get some custom piping made up and some supercharger brackets made up, and reallocate coil pack.
    Anyone want to sell their brackets?

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    Just a few questions about the sc14 charger.

    1. What oil do i put in it ?
    2. How much oil does it need ?
    3. Where do i fill it up from ?
    4. Where do i drain the old oil from ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gemini
    Just a few questions about the sc14 charger.

    1. What oil do i put in it ?
    2. How much oil does it need ?
    3. Where do i fill it up from ?
    4. Where do i drain the old oil from ?
    Hi Gem,
    1. the SC14 uses VMX 80
    2. the SC14 has a dipstick attached to the filler plug at the back, shouldn't take any more that 250mL
    3. the filler plug at the side
    4. Cant remember if there is a drain plug on it, there should be one at the bottom, if not, out comes the blower
    cheers mate

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    i have a few questions about these setups.
    1. What happens to the brake booster line which comes off the throttle body? will this be under boost? or do i have to move it to somewhere else.
    2. which vacuum line does the bov connect to?
    3. is there any other piping needed apart from what goes from the air box, to the charger, then from the charger, to the tb. and the piping to the bov and vacuum line from bov?

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    1. in standard setup, this line is connected fom brake booster to intake manifold, and is under vacuum - solution is to put a one way valve on it, so it doesn't go boosty boosty, but instead will hold vacuum for however long enough you need to hold the brakes whilst you're accelerating.

    2. The bov can connect to any vacuum line, but a t piece in the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor will do perfectly.

    3. no, that's it. unless you want to get fancy.

    Luke.

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    also can i use a pulley off an air con pump? i got the 6psi pulley but i might wanna just go to one that i can turn off just in case the cops get sus
    and how many psi will they make?

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    ive looked at doing the same thing, but there will be alot of modifications to get it to work. i also dont think the magnet from the aircon would be up to it.

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    will a blitz BOV still activate on the standard 3psi ?

    i want to get a higher psi pulley but i dont want to upgrade internals
    General
    Car - 1991 Vn Commodore
    Wheels - 17" Roxbury Liquid Chrome / 235/45/17 Kuhmo's
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  22. #22
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    you need to get a low boost BOV, you can find em, 0-10 psi would be ideal
    with the higher psi from the smaller pully, you need bigger injectors, a rising fuel rate reg, and a remap and thats just the bare minium

    also i'm sorry to say but i am selling the supercharger kit half built as i dont have the timme, or once it's done, the money to runb and maintain the car, i need insurance on the car, and some springs, so if anyone wants to but it hit me up
    you get
    supercharger
    standard clutched pully machined to fit commodore belt (extra groove)
    sealed clutch wire, long enough to go into cabin
    free wheeling pully, not made to fit, just the pully
    top bracket
    round bar lathed and slot drilled ready to be made into bottom bracket
    a few bits of aliminum 3" pipe
    custom length 9mm high temp, spiral core ignition leads proballyy done approx 2500km (coil pack moves to where cruise control is, cruise gets moved to near strut tower)
    and probally some other bits and peices.

    i wil try to get around to finishing the how-to without photo's, i will draw up the brakets in cad and shit.

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    thanks for the update CSL, how much do you want for the leads? ill buy em off ya.
    Also i got a tensioner pulley and modified alternator bracket here so ill take some pics of it so people know how to modify their bracket and mount the pulley.
    Interested to see the drawn up brackets with dimensions. will help heaps.

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    OK here are the pics of the idler pulley and modified alternator bracket.
    Once i get my longer leads and move my coil pack i will mount them both to my car and take pics of them mounted.
    Then i'll move onto mounting the charger itself.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Guide to: superhcharger setup (simular to CRS)-alternator-mount.jpg   Guide to: superhcharger setup (simular to CRS)-idler-pulley.jpg  

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    that bracket is a grind job, and the bully is just some tig welding and fine adjustment with washers and so forth, cheerrs for that

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